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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 17, 2019 16:45:18 GMT -5
Is there enough meat that you could take a dremel sanding drum to it? If it retains its circular shape when opened up I’d think it would be fine, if it ovals out id clearance it. It wouldn’t take much. .25mm on tube, .25mm on stem.
My forks are pushed up 2” through my stem with only the pinch bolt keeping it from dropping out (or up) I think the stem would be stronger then the frame.
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 17, 2019 18:37:21 GMT -5
I dont know if I would trust that either, I saw they were just over 30mm, figured they were 30mm, sorry about that! I got the stem if you need it.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 17, 2019 19:17:52 GMT -5
Is there enough meat that you could take a dremel sanding drum to it? If it retains its circular shape when opened up I’d think it would be fine, if it ovals out id clearance it. It wouldn’t take much. .25mm on tube, .25mm on stem. My forks are pushed up 2” through my stem with only the pinch bolt keeping it from dropping out (or up) I think the stem would be stronger then the frame. My first thought was actually that maybe I could manage to get 0.25-0.5mm off of the tubes. Then I measured the tubes at just 1.75mm wall thickness and I didn't like that idea a lot. Stems have a chunk of material, but notice how they are what bends whenever there's an impact. This is #3 or 4 for me, though 1 was a friend's scoot. One bent in a crash on grass at ~10MPH. The forks have been fine and the frame has been fine each time. It's just the stem. That's even more of the reason that I question it. If I have to do something else I may just hope that China can deliver forks and adapters quickly enough. I really don't wanna put more cash into these. These also didn't feel that firm. My old 26mm forks had a lot more pressure when I took the caps off than this one had.
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 17, 2019 19:23:23 GMT -5
I am working on a plan B for ya!
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 18, 2019 10:23:33 GMT -5
Hopefully no plan B is needed. I went out this morning and started messing around with the stem and fork. I used a large cylindrical stone to remove material from the stem where the fork tube goes. I started thinking that there may be an easier way than aim for any certain diameters at rest and torqued for the stem. I ground away material and checked the gap when torqued with the oversized fork tube vs the gap without tension on a bolt. My thought is that if the stem is opened enough that the gap is the same size or smaller than it is when at rest with no tension from the bolt, then it shouldn't put any force on the stem that it's not capable of handling. It should be within it's designed range of flexibility I guess would be a way to express it. That's my logic anyway. So here's one side after being modified, with it bolted down tight. ...And here's the other side without tension on it. I was using feeler gauges and I forget the number now, but ~0.050" worth of feelers leave a little room on the modified side with it bolted down and are tight on the other side with no tension from the bolt. I may be way off, but it seems like if you could get a good tight fit in what is closer to the natural position of the stem, then it may actually reduce stress on it and not much material is being removed from the thick castings. I don't think it would really matter, but it's a reassuring idea if it's true. I'm gonna order seals once I find them and plan to continue this way for now unless there's a flaw in my thinking about the stem.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 18, 2019 13:00:31 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 19, 2019 12:35:03 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 19, 2019 15:59:16 GMT -5
Should have used some Turd Polish!
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 19, 2019 19:11:49 GMT -5
Speaking of Turd Polish... I may have gotten a little carried away when prepping one of the fork legs for paint. That took about 4 hours of sanding and polishing, being covered in grey/black crud... and tight spots could use more work if I wanted it to be great. If you see T2 with one polished and one black fork leg, you'll know why.
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 19, 2019 19:30:41 GMT -5
Speaking of Turd Polish... I may have gotten a little carried away when prepping one of the fork legs for paint. That took about 4 hours of sanding and polishing, being covered in grey/black crud... and tight spots could use more work if I wanted it to be great. If you see T2 with one polished and one black fork leg, you'll know why. That looks really nice! Now, paint it black. Lol!
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Post by aeroxbud on Apr 20, 2019 19:15:35 GMT -5
That finish will look great on a show bike. 😁
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 20, 2019 19:45:01 GMT -5
That finish will look great on a show bike. 😁 Damn shame they're going on junk. lol Glad that's over with.
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Post by ryan_ott on Apr 20, 2019 19:52:45 GMT -5
Did they turn out looking that good with sandpaper and polishing pads? They came out looking great!
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Post by Jwhood on Apr 20, 2019 20:28:50 GMT -5
Yeah make a post when u get some spare time on what u used to get that finish they look great
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 20, 2019 23:04:43 GMT -5
Green/blue medium Roloc discs to take off most paint. Small brass wire wheel in a rotary tool for the tight spots. 320 grit sandpaper. 400 grit sandpaper. Steel wool with Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. Spiral sown buffing wheel (bench buffer) with Eastwood Tripoli. Loose buffing wheel (bench buffer) with Eastwood White Rouge. Wash with dish soap and water. You could go through fine grits after the steel wool, but this works pretty well. When you're doing the first steps, you have to try to get it as smooth as those allow. Meaning, don't leave big imperfections when you're using the Roloc discs or 320 grit. If you do, they probably wont come out later so you'll just end up going back over it or seeing the imperfections. Polishing stuff is a time game. You have to have time and patience if you want a decent result and it is pretty dirty and tedious work that most likely will leave you sore from sanding. When I was going to do my scooter wheels I ended up giving up. I put in a bunch of hours on 1 wheel and then realized that it had a lot of time left to be right and I still had to do one more wheel. There can be an insane amount of time into large projects. A bench buffer makes a big difference, but I don't know that most people would use one a lot. Mine sits around a lot, but I bought it many years ago to try polishing a C&L MAF, stock IAC, and C&L intake tube (shown below). I assume you could put polishing/buffing wheels on a bench grinder. Parts will get very hot when using the bench buffer. You may also need small polishing/buffing wheels for a rotary tool if you want to get all the details. If you have access to a blast cabinet and the right media to remove paint and leave a fairly smooth surface that may speed things up. Also keep in mind that you will have to maintain anything polished. The finish will dull if not gone over with metal polish with some regularity. It's not like chrome or paint where you can usually just wash with soap and water and keep it looking tip top. You can clear coat after polishing, but so far the few amateur jobs (spray cans) that I've done eventually ended up with a yellow tint. I would imagine you could expect better results with a pro paint job or clear powder coating, or perhaps I've just used the wrong products.
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