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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 3, 2019 20:05:13 GMT -5
If you're just tuning in, check the last page for what this is about.
I just went back out. Rad a little low again. Topped it back off. Started it up and the coolant temp shot up to 200 in minutes. I thought it may bleed out another pocket, but it wouldn't. Only the cylinder and hose to the pump were hot. Everything else was cold like the pump wasn't working.
I took the stator cover off and verified that the water pump drive wheel was engaged and spinning and that was fine. Took off the water pump and everything was still good there.
Opened the bleeder valve on the cylinder and pressure came out. Closed that.
Fired the scoot back up and it ran cool so I took it in town at a leisurely pace. Seemed alright, but heated up gradually in the first 5-6 miles of the ride at 25-40MPH. It was in the 130s when I got on the gas to leave town and up to 150-something by the time I made it less than a mile to my house. Coolant reservoir full again.
It's definitely getting air in the cooling system from somewhere, and I'm assuming it's the head/cylinder seal.
As much as it's aggravating me today, I'm at least happy for one reason. I was heading into town for that ride after dark. I was on the shoulder because I was just going about 35-40MPH, but I swerved into the regular lane near the 30MPH zone for town. After I swerved, I saw a figure in the shoulder. Some woman was walking in the dark wearing dark workout clothes with nothing reflective. I had changed lanes earlier than normal. Otherwise I think it would have been a close call in the best case scenario, because I had a real hard time seeing her even with what I think is a pretty good headlight. There's no point in walking or jogging for your health if you get taken out by a scooter. Reflective adorned workout gear can't be that expensive.
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 3, 2019 20:57:26 GMT -5
Which head are you currently using, the one that you had welded or the one you made the insert for? Maybe it’s time to try a steel or copper head gasket instead of the orings.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 3, 2019 21:22:02 GMT -5
I don't get how so many pedestrians assume you can see them. I have trouble sometimes even when there are street lights, much less a darker road.
It sucks about the motor. You have worked so long and so hard on the LC setup. I think those kits with the seal so close to the combustion chamber are the issue.
I wonder how the Kymco Af16 clone would fit T2?
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 3, 2019 23:06:35 GMT -5
Which head are you currently using, the one that you had welded or the one you made the insert for? Maybe it’s time to try a steel or copper head gasket instead of the orings. This is the head with the filled groove so it was flattened out. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 3, 2019 23:31:38 GMT -5
Almost forgot. I'll prob have to go back to the 100 main. It started to bog a bit after short WOT on the night ride when it was cooler and less humid.
Just looking at the video of the best runs. 0-30 of 4.4 seconds. The best I have recorded of the TMAX is 4.2, and I wasn't even going for the quickest time with T2 today. Just test runs. Beyond 30, it's over and the TMAX is riding out of T2's life. It's about 1.5 seconds quicker to 40. I'd almost bet that if you put a rider half my weight on both, T2 beats the TMAX to 30 and is hanging in there to 40.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 4, 2019 7:58:49 GMT -5
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Post by jackrides on Aug 4, 2019 11:42:44 GMT -5
I see a glass plate in your future. Are the head nuts bottoming out on the threads?
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 4, 2019 12:06:11 GMT -5
I cleaned the head and cylinder up and checked the head for flatness with a straight edge and light. Looks fine. I think it was an optical illusion. Once it was cleaned up, the color of the filled area changed back to more like the aluminum and it looked flat to me. AC head gaskets fit the combustion area mostly OK. Not a perfect match. I've only got new aluminum ones. Could buy Al or Cu sheet to make gaskets if it were thought to be essential to match the entire area. Basically it would just give me a little more sealing surface on the outer edges of the stud passages.  The issue in my head for that is getting the head cut right for a gasket only in the center. Can't just leave it and then have the outside spaced out. Cutting for the depth of a new gasket would mean it doesn't compress. So it seems to me that you'd have to find out how much a gasket or material compressed under say 10ft-lbs torqued fasteners and then cut the head's central sealing surface to that number so it could compress but not act as a spacer for the outer sealing surfaces. I may be 100% wrong on that, but it sounds reasonable in my head at least. That said, I'd want to be sure I had replaceable gaskets rather than some one off stuff if the head were to be cut. Most seem pretty similar though and if it's say 24 gauge sheet, then most likely I'd have to buy enough sheet to make multiple gaskets anyway. Other potential negative with that sort of cutting is hoping that the filler is solid when cut down more. Plus there's always user error when I'm involved. I see a glass plate in your future. Are the head nuts bottoming out on the threads? The stud that this happened by does stick out more. I don't think it's bottoming out, but I will check. This thing has been cut on the lathe and trued on glass. Trued it when it was o-ring style (plus the cylinder) and that hasn't stopped it yet. |
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 4, 2019 13:35:20 GMT -5
Why don’t the 4 stroke crew have these issues  |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 4, 2019 19:53:29 GMT -5
What is that chunk I'm seeing inboard of the stud?Metal chip,or optical illusion??If a gasket is used on the bore area,then we need an outer gasket too,,or maybe make it all one piece,then deck the whole mess to get proper squish..Still looking for a replacement LC setup to fit a '103 Mina',no luck with the Honda jug as its setup for a 52mm stroke,,,Bucket racers in New Zealand braze water jackets on AC jugs and heads,but thats a lot of work!
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Post by 190mech on Aug 4, 2019 19:55:50 GMT -5
Why don’t the 4 stroke crew have these issues A 4 stroke gets to relax in a lawn chair every other stroke,so 1/2 the duty cycle!  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 4, 2019 21:19:08 GMT -5
What is that chunk I'm seeing inboard of the stud?Metal chip,or optical illusion?? That was just a piece of sealant. If a gasket is used on the bore area,then we need an outer gasket too,,or maybe make it all one piece,then deck the whole mess to get proper squish. I thought about the 1 piece deal, but the outer o-ring has been so flawless that I hate to mess with it. Not saying I won't. Just the way things gone so far, I expect that I'll end up with new leaks. Still looking for a replacement LC setup to fit a '103 Mina',no luck with the Honda jug as its setup for a 52mm stroke,,,Bucket racers in New Zealand braze water jackets on AC jugs and heads,but thats a lot of work! Plus, you've seen my brazing. There are 50 or 52mm DRR/Apex stock cylinders for $200. Cylinder only. Prob $300+ with everything. That's the best thing that I can find. I was looking around for what would at least match the current 103's abilities and be reliable (not that this is thanks to head sealing). I can't come up with any sure bet. It seems like the Polini Corsa or Stage6 MKII Sport is about the end of the line for the 70s that are claimed to be very reliable. I have seen Ryan's Corsa/C16 in person. It runs very well and it seems to be treating him well, but realistically I don't think it can do what the 103 does. Prob close. His Zuma may smoke me if he and I drag race, but I think you put me (heavy) on the Corsa and it's not doing what T2 does now. Those are single exhaust port setups. Then you go to bridged port kits that can make more power. They also tend to be single ring. So single ring will require more maintenance. That I could prob live with, but do bridged port setups do well when you hold it WOT for 10 miles? Oh yeah, and they're aluminum. Aluminum kits still worry me. After a quickly holed piston and ruined near new cylinder long ago with an Airsal T6 (bridged port version actually), I've been worried that I get an air leak and the cylinder is gone or at least the piston. I may be too paranoid on that, but come on... you can look through this thread and watch fail after fail. I'd prefer to stay with 103s if I ever find more kits like this... assuming I can make them stop leaking. |
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Aug 4, 2019 23:25:39 GMT -5
Those are single exhaust port setups. Then you go to bridged port kits that can make more power. They also tend to be single ring. So single ring will require more maintenance. That I could prob live with, but do bridged port setups do well when you hold it WOT for 10 miles? Oh yeah, and they're aluminum. Aluminum kits still worry me. After a quickly holed piston and ruined near new cylinder long ago with an Airsal T6 (bridged port version actually), I've been worried that I get an air leak and the cylinder is gone or at least the piston. I may be too paranoid on that, but come on... you can look through this thread and watch fail after fail. I'd prefer to stay with 103s if I ever find more kits like this... assuming I can make them stop leaking. Yes! ^ this! This is my first bridged exhaust port kit (mkii race) and aluminum everything. So it’s a $200 gamble so can’t say that I’m NOT worried, just hate being stranded and having to call my buddy with a truck! My plan is to run 32:1 Maxima 927 and iridium Br9hix. I think everything will be ok as long as I keep an eye on the temps. It’s being fed by a 24mm PWK with pod filter and shroud a set of up jets on hand. It seems I only see these kits being sold in LC version and haven’t heard much on the AC version even over on the Zumaforums (which is totally spammed out recently). I’ll keep updates here to let it be known how long it last’s. With my little ass on even 4-stroke TaoTaos people are amazed of how quick I can get them up too. These things are too weight/wind temperamental. I’m suprised there isn’t more on the market for that higher CC (Maxi) scoot. I know Malossi makes an 125 kit for the BWS 100 but it’s cast iron and air cooled. Have you considered the Roost havoc stuff or the Malossi RC-one 94cc cases and or bores? I do know that the cases for them are expensive but than I see the 2Fast stuff and it’s in a whole other ballpark. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 5, 2019 6:04:11 GMT -5
Have you considered the Roost havoc stuff or the Malossi RC-one 94cc cases and or bores? I do know that the cases for them are expensive but than I see the 2Fast stuff and it’s in a whole other ballpark. Multiple issues with that stuff for me. All of that is expensive. Beyond my budget. The RC-One is $3,400. The Roost 100cc I think is like $700 for the cylinder kit alone and then would need a crank and exhaust suitable for it. Same with most of the high end stuff. There is a TPR 86cc kit that has a crank with it for under $500. If I tried to venture into that world, it would probably start there. That said, it's all high end racing stuff. Here's a quote from Scooter Attack ; " Regarding performance, the Top Performances 86cc Tuning Kit MBK Nitro / Aerox is a Hyper Racing kit and develops 20/22hp in combination with the proper components:
- min. 28mm carburetor
- digital inner rotor ignition
- “Hyper Racing” exhaust." I'm afraid it ends up with a light switch throttle. I'm imagining leaving the beach at 1AM after 10 or 12 hours of riding already and then having to make a 70 mile trip home when I'm already tired, going reeeeee.........reeeeeeeee........reeeeeeeee.......reeeeeee... Assuming of course that it makes it through the first 10-12 hours to even get to there. I'm not sure that the racing ignitions will meet my requirements for charging, and that's another expense. Plus the huge carb. Plus the stuff I already mentioned about somewhat similar kits. It would certainly smoke the 103 though if it made 20 or more HP. Someone here said in the past that perhaps it could be used with the Peace Pipe to keep it more tame than the racing exhausts, but I still don't know if it would be a viable option. A lot of what it comes down to is that I'm trying to do stuff on a small scooter that I probably shouldn't be trying to do on a small scooter... but I enjoy it more than about anything else so I plan to try to keep doing it as long as I can. I can take the TMAX to the beach all day every day and it will be fine and faster. I like to do that at times, but I don't have fun with it around the beach like I do with T2 by a long shot. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 5, 2019 6:48:12 GMT -5
I can see what your saying about the racing stuff. The stage 6 racing cylinder I had made good power, and was fun to ride. But only if you were in the mood to scream about.
It might get tiresome very quickly on a long ride.
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