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Post by ryan_ott on Sept 6, 2019 21:48:02 GMT -5
On the MVT Dd you get as much as 25 degrees of retard at max rpm, old video I just uploaded.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Sept 6, 2019 22:17:45 GMT -5
28mm Keihin or Dellorto VHST, matching TPR 86 exhaust, Yasuni C30, or Roost R86, and a MVT ignition to keep your lighting. But here's the catch. You'll probably never think about working on an air cooled scooter again after that guaranteed.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 7, 2019 22:32:47 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 8, 2019 18:14:23 GMT -5
Didn't do a whole lot to it today. Sanded the touch up on the transfer filler and installed mount bearings and the shock bushing. Then made plugs for the starter holes and drove them in.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 9, 2019 18:35:45 GMT -5
Parts that I've ordered over the last few weeks have been showing up. I didn't have small spline stuff around, like vari spacers, kickstart pawl, key, etc... Odds and ends like dowels and clips for the engine. Recommended spark plugs. Ordered another Stage6 secondary gear set because I had a spare E-Ton Beamer primary drive shaft with the 3rd support. If engine swapping is required in short order, it would be much easier without having to do the gearbox and in a worst case scenario if something goes bad in one gearbox I'll have a whole 2nd setup. Same deal with the OR variator. By the time I ordered the smaller stuff for this crank, I'm halfway to the whole kit and the vari does wear out eventually anyway. I wanted to get new brake cams and all, but I can't find all of it online so I'll have to procure that from some other engine that's sitting around. If it were up to me, I'd have another wheel powder coated, another stand, OR rear pulley, CVT cover and all so it could be bolted in with next to no effort. My wallet however cannot handle that idea... and wasn't really coping well with this already.  I got the crank and seals in. Planned to do a little more, but I didn't know I was going to go on an hour plus scavenger hunt for a retaining clip for the CVT side crank seal. Only good part of that is that I did clean out a few junk pieces and organize a small parts container better... so I won't be able to find anything else either the next time I need something. Discarded about 10-15 brand new 12mm circlips with 2 ears because those things scare me after all of the failures I've had and I couldn't bring myself to give them away to someone and risk their engine.   |
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Post by ryan_ott on Sept 9, 2019 19:00:19 GMT -5
Did you find a seal retainer clip? They don’t show up on a Zuma parts list but it’s the same as the rear axle rearing retainer clip. It’s all those little pieces that add up the cost of a new engine, been there.
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Sept 9, 2019 19:13:50 GMT -5
Did you find a seal retainer clip? They don’t show up on a Zuma parts list but it’s the same as the rear axle rearing retainer clip. It’s all those little pieces that add up the cost of a new engine, been there. (No intention of derail) What is this retaining clip on the CVT side seal? I blew one out already but don’t remember putting one back in OR taking one out when doing rebuild. The Zuma manual doesn’t show any type of clip holding that side in, only the big paw on the stator side. I don’t want to blow another seal. |
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Post by ryan_ott on Sept 9, 2019 19:33:54 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 9, 2019 21:15:11 GMT -5
Did you find a seal retainer clip? They don’t show up on a Zuma parts list but it’s the same as the rear axle rearing retainer clip. It’s all those little pieces that add up the cost of a new engine, been there. Thanks for the tip. I found one. Thought I had a few around, but I'll have to grab some more. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 10, 2019 8:55:28 GMT -5
I expelled a sound resembling Lurch from The Addams Family this morning when I realized that I needed to make some gaskets.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 10, 2019 9:10:38 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 10, 2019 22:12:56 GMT -5
Another day where I intended to get more done than I did. I harvested some parts from a case that I tossed in the junk pile after. It's from my very first stroker build and is worn to the point that the primary drive shaft bearing will fall in/out.  I installed the brake stuff and gearbox bearings. When I went to put the retainer on for the PDS bearing, it wouldn't bolt up. The holes in the retainer didn't line up with the cases. I had 2-3 others, which also didn't line up. Looks like the case was drilled and tapped a bit off. Elongated one hole of a retainer to make it fit.  I installed the Stage6 gears and the gearbox small half didn't want to go on. I used the bolts to pull it on. I have had this happen with the 3rd support to some degree before, so I figured it may just be a mild misalignment. It didn't take a lot of force to pull the cases together with the bolts. Then I got it all together and the gears wouldn't turn. I used a shim on the intermediate shaft and I guess it didn't need one. Removed the gearbox cover to get to the shim and the 3rd support stuck to the drive shaft instead of staying in the case.  The bearing was tight and gritty. Kinda surprised it didn't feel worse pulling together. Luckily, I have a whole spare set of gearbox bearings so I could replace the 6200 bearing. I used a 2 jaw puller to get the bearing off of the drive shaft. Then I measured the shaft and it ranged from (IIRC) 9.98mm to 10.1mm, and the bearing is a 10mm ID. It seemed to be out of round, because that difference depended how I clocked the mic on the shaft. I removed the shaft and put it in the lathe to try to get it all to just below 10mm. I was trying to use a carbide insert shaped so the leading edge was perpendicular to the shaft so I could get all the way across. Didn't work. Everything just shifted instead of cutting. Not sure if a different bit could have done better, but I figured I'd prob struggle with cutting since it is (I assume) hardened. I tried sandpaper instead and that worked. Took it down to 9.97mm with 120 and quickly polished the end with 400 grit.  Then it fit a bearing nicely. I reinstalled everything, minus the shim on the intermediate shaft, and it worked fine. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 11, 2019 8:39:46 GMT -5
I checked piston ring end gap, which was 0.006" and right at the minimum spec. Then I mocked the engine up to do some checks. Durations turned out to be right on spec at 190/130. I gotta admit, these parts with brand names are kinda neat. Specs. Meeting specs without mods. Seems too good to be true. Then I bolted the head on to check squish. I taped solder on the piston crown to measure 4 corners at once and then cranked the engine over with a ratchet. Minimum clearances came out between 1.09mm and 1.12mm. 0.03mm variance is also impressive. 0.3mm seems more on par for my usual cylinders. The only issue is that the spec for the TPR is 0.9mm +/- 0.1mm, so I'm basically 0.1mm over that. I have no plan to modify anything, because I think that will likely change to some small degree anyway when everything is torqued and settles and perhaps with more spirited cranking by a kick start. When I bolted the head up, I thought I must be doing something wrong. This 2-piece stuff is new to me. There's a gap, maybe 1mm, between the outer section of the head and the cylinder deck.  I took it apart and saw that the center section of the head sits proud relative to the outer section.  Then I put a straight edge across the deck and found that the center bore section also sits proud relative to the outer section there as well.  So either I have a messed up kit, or what I think is that Top Performance is trying to focus the clamping on the central area to be sure the bore area where the most stress is will actually seal. The outside uses an o-ring with a much larger cross section, so they let it do the work for the outer seal. That's what I hope anyway. That of course made me think about the 103cc. I'm gonna order a 52mm head (because I can't order a 54mm head to my knowledge). Then I'll try to cut the combustion chamber so it works with the large bore and can provide appropriate squish with my custom hand-milled (sounds way cooler than half-assed decked right?) cylinder. I really don't want to cut a mm off of the outer section, but I'm thinking even a tenth or two of a mm could be enough to produce a similar effect to the TPR's. I could be right back to having o-rings blow out though. I guess if it shows promise, I could try to fill the center area and use AC gaskets in the center and an o-ring on the outside. After seeing this, if I had it all to do over... I think I would have just left the head as it was after the filling and then stuck an AC gasket in the center. That would have done basically what TPR did and simply. Supascoot provided the same idea about a week ago. At the time I was over it though and with the current head my o-ring groove is cut so much that I didn't want to take anymore off. Cutting the cylinder that way is not something that I think I could do. Plus, I was kinda "over it" at that point. Oh and one other thing we do and may be of some benefit to you. On one side of the engines we deal with is the pushrod area so oil area... we machine an extra .002-.003 off that side to allow of the clamping force to be put on the combustion areas and along that edge we use an engine based sealant. So perhaps a little metal removal around the perimeter may be of benefit to you to provide more of the available clamping force for the combustion area Another lesson here, that I'll prob totally ignore in the future, may be : Don't jump into things that are new to you with cheap (not monetarily unfortunately) parts. Maybe this will be a fail too, but it definitely makes me wonder how much different my LC experience could have been if my Taiwan kit had a little more design/R&D time involved. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 11, 2019 22:27:09 GMT -5
Got the top end together today. This thing has o-rings everywhere. 11 of 'em.   Luckily, the mail lady brought the replacement reeds as I was finishing up the cylinder install. I found a UNI filter vent in the reed block when I took it apart.  I ended up replacing 2 reeds instead of just the 1. Another reed was just starting to fray on one corner.  Looks like Moto Tassinari changed the reed kit a little since the last one I bought (1-2 years ago). Rear reed is new, front is the older one.   |
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Post by 190mech on Sept 12, 2019 0:29:29 GMT -5
Looks like a well engineered kit!No need to pop open the turd polish can on this one!!
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