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Post by captincvmn on Dec 6, 2020 19:18:41 GMT -5
The belt, Perhaps you shouldn’t think of it as 200 miles strictly. Take horsepower times mileage equals belt life. For a stock scooter the formula would work out to many more miles. I believe you had calculated 18ish hp for yours. That would be less mileage. I think you should get more like 1000 miles though, even with the rpms and load.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 7, 2020 20:56:54 GMT -5
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 7, 2020 21:25:04 GMT -5
Watched, liked, commented. Looks like it makes a lot of sense to have that reinforcement. If two roller/sliders side by side moved more than the other four it would cause an enormous oscillation and out of balance condition that would only worsen as the plate cracked apart. Yikes.
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Sum-azn-kid
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 183
Location: Hawaii
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Post by Sum-azn-kid on Dec 8, 2020 1:14:12 GMT -5
What spray did u use to freeze the crank bearing when installing the ign side of the crank case? Also what temp dp u heat the cases to?
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 8, 2020 5:22:51 GMT -5
As far as the cvt debate goes I agree with Brent's view more so then you other rocket scientists when he says most of us have only ever seen the pulleys shift fully is while on a center stand this is without any load whatsoever not even the load of the tire let alone the rider pushing its way through asphalt I think maybe a good example Is a stock Magnito versus a inner rotor whereas the stock mag May not be quite as snappy as an inner road or off the line the same way heavier weights might not be quite as snappy in my opinion off the line and certain instances but the inertia Of the heavier magnito which on comparing to Heavier rollers Will keep its speed longer after the throttle is let off because it's more rotational mass in action the magnito and a very either or both attached to the crank therefore maybe one can make the comparison of a heavier magnito being similar to heavy rollers? CVT is something I didn't even consider until 3 years or so into tuning mopeds My dumb-ass thought it couldn't possibly make much of a difference I do agree 100% with the softer contra Springs being ideal though as long as there's not belt slip I would say the softer the better.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 8, 2020 6:41:47 GMT -5
The 'plastic'bearing cages are the go-to in high revv 2strokes,the metal cages tend to deform due to high gyroscopic loads..Same way with the con rod big end cage,special machined silver plated cages are used as the cheaper stamped steel ones come apart with time.. As to the CVT debate,more folks need to chop up some CVT covers and take vids of their setups so there can be a data base of how all of them act on the road or track..
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 8, 2020 8:12:38 GMT -5
What spray did u use to freeze the crank bearing when installing the ign side of the crank case? Also what temp dp u heat the cases to? You can get freeze spray. I never have. I just use air duster cans, like the ones that people use for cleaning electronics and such. The trick there is to hold the can upside down. The cans usually say not to hold them upside down, but that's how you get them to freeze things. I try to get the cases somewhere near 250. If you have new or very clean cases without chemical residues and without everything else installed, I have put them in the oven at 250-300 for 30 minutes before. That gets the entire case hot and you can also drop in gearbox bearings and such easily that way. If you do multiple bearings, just be careful till everything cools because the bearings may fall right out if you tip the case. The 'plastic'bearing cages are the go-to in high revv 2strokes,the metal cages tend to deform due to high gyroscopic loads..Same way with the con rod big end cage,special machined silver plated cages are used as the cheaper stamped steel ones come apart with time.. I was told in the comments that these are also the choice for high RPM stuff because the polymer cages don't tend to destroy the engine when they come apart like the steel ones do.
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Post by islandscrub on Dec 8, 2020 15:12:59 GMT -5
Brent,
I watched your new video late last night and had a dream about it. Some thoughts are: Does the support disc need to be made out of steel? It's sandwiched in there so should go in time with the crank, why not aluminum? Which lead to my other thought, would having in splined help or not matter at all? I'd assume not since the regular spacer isn't. Lastly, could this same support be achieved with the regular spacer plus a big fender washer? You could also zap a weld on the washer to make it one piece.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 8, 2020 19:11:00 GMT -5
Brent, I watched your new video late last night and had a dream about it. Some thoughts are: Does the support disc need to be made out of steel? It's sandwiched in there so should go in time with the crank, why not aluminum? Which lead to my other thought, would having in splined help or not matter at all? I'd assume not since the regular spacer isn't. Lastly, could this same support be achieved with the regular spacer plus a big fender washer? You could also zap a weld on the washer to make it one piece. I thought about aluminum for mass concerns, but I think the aluminum will be more likely to wear and need to be redone eventually. Most likely the steel spacer will last a long time. I don't think splines would do much anyway, but the crank's splines don't run all the way up to the shoulder. I suppose if you could create splines for the small section that they could interact with in order to lock in the spacer, perhaps it could potentially remove some twisting stress from the splined ramp plate just from being sandwiched in there. Well beyond my means and S6 and the others that make spacers aren't bothering even though they could do it. I thought about the washer as well. Seems like the easy way to go about it for folks with less tools would be to get a large thick washer or 2 and combine that with shims or a cut down spacer. You would just need to find a washer that was a snug fit on the crank or carefully drill/bore it to be.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 9, 2020 19:20:30 GMT -5
I'm trying to install the Polini 360 degree intake for a 30mm carb. That's going great so far. 2 attempts and leaks. It's a rubber boot that goes through an aluminum plate so you can rotate it however you'd like. The rubber sits proud of the aluminum on the bottom. The first time around, I cut a reed gasket so that it fit around the rubber boot. It leaked around the rubber boot in one corner when pressure tested. I took it apart and removed the gasket there and reassembled it. I figured the boot needed to be pressed into the plate more when the intake bolts are torqued in order to seal. It leaked where the aluminum plate meets up with the reed block, in the same corner as before. Next thought is to use some RTV on the aluminum plate, not on the rubber boot, and retry. I also thought about thinner gasket material, but I'm using 1/16" and I don't think I have anything thinner around. I guess that's the plan, unless anyone has any other tips/info from experience sealing these 360 intakes. I guess the plate could not be true or something.
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 9, 2020 20:21:53 GMT -5
Minarelli bubble bath?
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pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
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Post by pewpew on Dec 10, 2020 7:49:02 GMT -5
I'm trying to install the Polini 360 degree intake for a 30mm carb. That's going great so far. 2 attempts and leaks. It's a rubber boot that goes through an aluminum plate so you can rotate it however you'd like. The rubber sits proud of the aluminum on the bottom. The first time around, I cut a reed gasket so that it fit around the rubber boot. It leaked around the rubber boot in one corner when pressure tested. I took it apart and removed the gasket there and reassembled it. I figured the boot needed to be pressed into the plate more when the intake bolts are torqued in order to seal. It leaked where the aluminum plate meets up with the reed block, in the same corner as before. Next thought is to use some RTV on the aluminum plate, not on the rubber boot, and retry. I also thought about thinner gasket material, but I'm using 1/16" and I don't think I have anything thinner around. I guess that's the plan, unless anyone has any other tips/info from experience sealing these 360 intakes. I guess the plate could not be true or something. I used a 360 intake but never leak tested, it worked fine.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 10, 2020 7:58:12 GMT -5
I'm not a fan of the cross your fingers method of sealing 2Ts. I have enough trouble without missing a major leak and it's easier to me to get it straight on the bench before it goes into the frame.
I sealed it with Ultra Grey around the rubber, but not on it, about an hour ago. Gotta watch a friend's kids all day so if I have even a shard of patience left when I get home tonight I will try to pressure test it again.
I've ordered a 90 degree air filter next day from ScooterTuning.Ca yesterday, because the 15° UNI pod that I had won't fit. I'm trying to see if I can get it going by the weekend, because Saturday is forecasted as a balmy 61°. Between a huge carb that doesn't want to fit and sealing issues, topped with a lot of time day and night helping a friend right now, that may not happen. 60 sure is more pleasant to ride/tune in than 45 though if I get that lucky.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 10, 2020 9:58:11 GMT -5
I'm trying to install the Polini 360 degree intake for a 30mm carb. That's going great so far. 2 attempts and leaks. It's a rubber boot that goes through an aluminum plate so you can rotate it however you'd like. The rubber sits proud of the aluminum on the bottom. The first time around, I cut a reed gasket so that it fit around the rubber boot. It leaked around the rubber boot in one corner when pressure tested. I took it apart and removed the gasket there and reassembled it. I figured the boot needed to be pressed into the plate more when the intake bolts are torqued in order to seal. It leaked where the aluminum plate meets up with the reed block, in the same corner as before. Next thought is to use some RTV on the aluminum plate, not on the rubber boot, and retry. I also thought about thinner gasket material, but I'm using 1/16" and I don't think I have anything thinner around. I guess that's the plan, unless anyone has any other tips/info from experience sealing these 360 intakes. I guess the plate could not be true or something. I've read somewhere else, some Hawaii Honda guys simply use Automotive Goop as a sealant.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 10, 2020 22:37:01 GMT -5
It finally sealed with RTV on the aluminum plate, around the rubber boot. I got everything together, setup the ignition, and put the engine in the scoot tonight.
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