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Post by awines2326 on Jul 31, 2023 20:24:36 GMT -5
Hey 90GTVert did you ever find a better regulator option for your MVT ignition? I think my setup with the MVT and Jog regulator is having issues because my Vapor is going crazy at high RPMs. Or is there something I should be running between the fuse and vapor?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 31, 2023 21:21:32 GMT -5
I haven't found anything better than the Zuma R/R. I had some suggestions from others, but they didn't work for me. My Vapor is hooked to the battery and I don't use anything special with it. You may want to check your voltage to see if it's getting really high when revved. You'll need to monitor it while you ride.
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Post by awines2326 on Jul 31, 2023 23:06:39 GMT -5
I ran a small fuse box that all my electronics go to and everything else appears to function normal at all times. I've also noticed it act strange at low RPMs but only after it's had an issue at the higher RPM. I'll wire up a meter and watch it while I ride to see if it spikes. I'm using the regulator from your diagram so is that the Zuma you're using right now? No issues with surges on yours?
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 1, 2023 6:27:21 GMT -5
I put a super cheap voltmeter on my scoot... a few bucks at the time on Ali, eBay, amazon. Comes in handy. Mine is sorta half-assed TBH. Not how I'd like it, but it works. My water pump will shutoff above 15V, so I have to keep it to 15V or less. It will go higher on it's own, but I use lights to regulate it. Since voltage is low around town going slow and sitting, I just use a running light to keep voltage up a bit. If I see voltage come up too much, I turn on my actual headlight. With the headlight on and the electric pump running, I haven't had to worry about it going too high in voltage. It just drops below 12V if I leave it like that when in town.
So, if not concerned with low volts, the pump and headlight would keep it to reasonable levels. I just like to keep volts up if possible in town, so my halo running light is easy enough for that and still bright for visibility. I wish it would self-regulate as it should, but I've tried a few R/Rs now and I can't get a better result. There's probably something out there that works better, but I don't know what it is and it doesn't seem worth buying more and more to try since I have a setup that works for me.
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Post by Lucass2T on Aug 3, 2023 9:13:32 GMT -5
I put a super cheap voltmeter on my scoot... a few bucks at the time on Ali, eBay, amazon. Comes in handy. Mine is sorta half-assed TBH. Not how I'd like it, but it works. My water pump will shutoff above 15V, so I have to keep it to 15V or less. It will go higher on it's own, but I use lights to regulate it. Since voltage is low around town going slow and sitting, I just use a running light to keep voltage up a bit. If I see voltage come up too much, I turn on my actual headlight. With the headlight on and the electric pump running, I haven't had to worry about it going too high in voltage. It just drops below 12V if I leave it like that when in town. So, if not concerned with low volts, the pump and headlight would keep it to reasonable levels. I just like to keep volts up if possible in town, so my halo running light is easy enough for that and still bright for visibility. I wish it would self-regulate as it should, but I've tried a few R/Rs now and I can't get a better result. There's probably something out there that works better, but I don't know what it is and it doesn't seem worth buying more and more to try since I have a setup that works for me. Not sure why R/R's don't work for you but have you tried one from a (small) motorcycle? They see much bigger currents and might work better. Juggling the voltage constantly is another distraction you don't need while riding a 2-wheeler.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 3, 2023 11:15:42 GMT -5
Not sure why R/R's don't work for you but have you tried one from a (small) motorcycle? They see much bigger currents and might work better. Juggling the voltage constantly is another distraction you don't need while riding a 2-wheeler. I've only tried the Zuma regulator, many that I have around from various Chinese scooters, and a Tomos A55 regulator that someone told me worked great with their MVT. None would regulate properly for me. IIRC someone else mentioned one from an Aprlia scoot, but it was pricey and I feared another fail and wasted cash. This was discussed some time ago here and there seemed to be some thought that the high RPM and big fluctuations may make it tougher to regulate than most applications. Obviously a lot of 600 super sports will outrev my setup, but I have no idea if they fluctuate output so much going from no charging to lots with RPM swings. Again, just got to a point that I said I can do other things if I don't spend my money fixing something that works. It's not as bad as it may sound. I have 2 warning lights on my Vapor for coolant temp (160 and 180F), so if I see them come on then I know I haven't paid attention to voltage and I just flip the headlight on and temps drop immediately as the pump starts working again as soon as voltage drops. If I'm in town, I know I won't be getting any charging so I flip the headlight off. I could leave the headlight on all of the time and it would probably be fine aside from maybe long bouts in town or stopped. Ryan rides with no charging at all, but different batteries, and he can ride for hours. His lights are lower draw than my headlight though.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 4, 2023 17:29:11 GMT -5
I’ve been spending so much time trying to get videos edited and then riding in my free time that I haven’t done much actual scooter work. I did spend a little time in the garage this morning. I cut the header piece to the OD to work with the S6 pipe and then drilled and bored a hole that’s a little smaller than the center of the oval side for a starting point. I’ll probably bore one side to or near the ID to match the S6 header and then it will be hand done.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 4, 2023 19:08:57 GMT -5
Are you making an adaptor from aluminum? Hard to tell in the photos.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 4, 2023 23:05:01 GMT -5
Are you making an adaptor from aluminum? Hard to tell in the photos. No. It’s steel.
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Post by awines2326 on Aug 6, 2023 13:51:17 GMT -5
I threw a voltage meter on mine and I'm not having any spiking issues, or voltage climbing too high at least in the couple runs I did. But the Vapor still cuts out at high RPM. Of I stay high it stays off, at exactly the powerband it starts going crazy the shift lights flash and the screen goes blank, when the RPM comes down it goes back to normal but resets all the maximums it had saved? I did notice voltage was kinda low, with my headlight on it slowly crept down all the way to 8V but with it shut off it climbed back up to just under 12.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2023 16:25:00 GMT -5
I threw a voltage meter on mine and I'm not having any spiking issues, or voltage climbing too high at least in the couple runs I did. But the Vapor still cuts out at high RPM. Of I stay high it stays off, at exactly the powerband it starts going crazy the shift lights flash and the screen goes blank, when the RPM comes down it goes back to normal but resets all the maximums it had saved? I did notice voltage was kinda low, with my headlight on it slowly crept down all the way to 8V but with it shut off it climbed back up to just under 12. Could be the Vapor is bad. Would be nice to check with stable voltage. Maybe just hook it to a different power supply and leave the rest connected as-is. Hook to a car battery for example and just rev it on the stand (or with the belt/CVT uninstalled) and see if it still acts up. Another thought is a potential CDI issue. I have seen weird readings from CDIs going bad. If you have another one, swap it and see if it continues. You may need to reach out to Trail Tech.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2023 22:09:12 GMT -5
Not much progress. I cut a shallow groove for an o-ring. There just won’t be a lot of material to allow a deeper groove. The S6 flange doesn’t use one, but the Malossi with a ring had been good about containing black goo. I bored one end to near the ID to match the S6 exhaust and made some cuts that sort of taper to make porting it a little easier. I drilled the flange to 32mm, which is the biggest bit I have. The header piece is 36.8mm. I ordered a $10 step drill that goes to 1 3/8” (~35mm) and I guess I’ll hand finish it.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 14, 2023 19:23:45 GMT -5
The 1 3/8” step drill came in so I used that and then marked it and opened it up most of the way with a double cut burr. Finished with a flap wheel nearly as large as the hole and added a chamfer with a burr. Clamped everything to a thick aluminum block that checked out as pretty flat and did a couple of small quick welds on the underside. It came out looking pretty flat. I filled the void from chamfering both the pipe and plate. That went way better than anticipated. I expected to pile up welds and have something awful. This is not bad considering I haven’t touched a welder recently and we’ve all seen how TIG goes for me sometimes. I’m hoping that top weld is good enough, but I may get paranoid and try to do more of the bottom. The bottom prob won’t clear everything and need to be ground or cut though. Would be nice to save some work if the top is enough, but I dunno. The top will need to be cut flat. Needs to be ported and needs an o-ring groove. If am lucky enough that it’s straight enough to make the truing cut in the lathe, then I may cut the o-ring groove while it’s setup. Port last and hope I don’t gouge anything in the process. I’d like to port earlier, but not sure that will work with the weld in the way of bolting it up.
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Post by jackrides on Aug 15, 2023 15:53:46 GMT -5
That weld looks great! Skip the drill bits at that size. Try a boring bar, (not for engine cylinders) precise cutting edge, height setting, and light cuts and amaze yourself!
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 16, 2023 5:08:24 GMT -5
That's came out pretty good.
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