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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 7, 2024 16:42:19 GMT -5
So sorry! Do you think they might have sent 12mm clips instead of 13mm clips? I have to put the clips over the end of the tool to install them so I should notice if they were too small because I'd really have to squeeze them on. Each tool is a specific size, so I have a 12mm and a 13mm version of it because one won't do both. I still went and put the intact clip beside 12 and 13mm spares and it looks like a 13 to me. Since i keep mentioning it; this is the tool I use. The C-Clipper. The clip goes on the end of the shaft, which has markings to align the end gap with so you know where you're installing the gap. Other part is adjusted for depth and goes into the piston (a snug fit). Put the line on the tool (representing the gap) toward the crown and push the shaft into the receptacle till it goes in (feel and hear a click). Great tool. I love it. If it didn't get seated, it ain't the tool's fault. It's my fault if I didn't catch it. I probably won't be putting clips in again without picking at them after even if they look good to me because I should not only verify that they are in that way but also that they are not easily movable.   I was just looking at the piston with a magnifying glass. The side that the clip came out of is pristine, almost. There's a small scuff or nick on the bottom (toward the crank) of the groove and just outside of the groove. That's about all I noticed. The other side looks like it was rotating while the engine was running (as witnessed by the end gap in a different location and east of moving it). |
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 413
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Post by sinfull on Jul 8, 2024 0:39:11 GMT -5
Ouch, that hurts 😢
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Post by broyager on Jul 8, 2024 3:50:22 GMT -5
Really really sorry to hear about your trouble with this.
Just on topic, what is the correct orientation for the circlip?
Afaik it should be gap toward 6 o'clock, but the Malossi Sport piston has the gap at about 4 o'clock, if 9 is the exhaust side, which means one end would be hanging out toward the end of of this gap.
I don't remember where mine are, but it seemed better to have the gap at 4, so the ends didn't stick out into that gap at all. I think last time I put one in the clip gap was over the 4 o'clock gap, and it didn't move easily afterward, so I just left it like that.
Have only been using C clips lately, as per forum advice, and using only a big flathead on the way in.
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Post by broyager on Jul 8, 2024 4:01:00 GMT -5
Pictures are worth a thousand words, this is what i mean, the right hand end of the circlip gap, would only just be held inside the edge, if the gap should face the bottom of the piston  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 8, 2024 5:30:40 GMT -5
Install the circlip with the gap at 12 or 6 o'clock (toward the head or toward the crank). I would choose whichever let the gap be furthest from the notch, but either way is probably fine.
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Post by billwill on Jul 8, 2024 6:09:56 GMT -5
That's just terrible man... sorry that happened. To think, you've probably put clips in hundreds of times, I don't see it being user error.
I recently had a clip spring out and shoot across the garage when trying to get it in so I reused one of the old and decent looking stock ones. It popped in with a satisfying click and all, but seeing this makes me uneasy.
Sorry again dude. Can't catch a break!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 8, 2024 8:06:54 GMT -5
That's just terrible man... sorry that happened. To think, you've probably put clips in hundreds of times, I don't see it being user error. I recently had a clip spring out and shoot across the garage when trying to get it in so I reused one of the old and decent looking stock ones. It popped in with a satisfying click and all, but seeing this makes me uneasy. Sorry again dude. Can't catch a break! I'd love to say it wasn't me, but I know I didn't put a pick on it and check so I can't say that with any certainty. Seeing the clip groove on the side that made a grand exit having no wear would tell me that it didn't have to try too hard to come out. Was that because it didn't fit just right or because maybe a part of it never seated? I suspect the fascination with time machines is likely people like me that just want to go back a day and double check a circlip. |
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Post by xtremrox on Jul 9, 2024 10:12:43 GMT -5
That's just terrible man... sorry that happened. To think, you've probably put clips in hundreds of times, I don't see it being user error. I recently had a clip spring out and shoot across the garage when trying to get it in so I reused one of the old and decent looking stock ones. It popped in with a satisfying click and all, but seeing this makes me uneasy. Sorry again dude. Can't catch a break! I'd love to say it wasn't me, but I know I didn't put a pick on it and check so I can't say that with any certainty. Seeing the clip groove on the side that made a grand exit having no wear would tell me that it didn't have to try too hard to come out. Was that because it didn't fit just right or because maybe a part of it never seated? I suspect the fascination with time machines is likely people like me that just want to go back a day and double check a circlip. Usually if the clip end is not seated properly it seizes the engine almost instantly. Only thing that comes to mind is somekind of material failure ect failed tempering of the clip exmpl |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 9, 2024 19:46:04 GMT -5
$80 worth of genuine Keihin main jets… and that’s with 6 of 10 being a NOS lot on eBay. The other 4 are from JetsRUs. Ordered along with the cheap AliExpress stuff before I knew my top end would get destroyed immediately.  |
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 413
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Post by sinfull on Jul 10, 2024 2:17:50 GMT -5
If anything you have jets now 😆
You can always swap a qmb or a 150cc gy6 into t2 and keep riding. I know you have enough stuff to do a swap and enough stuff to get it tuned right. Won't be nearly as fun as 12k rpm pissed off weed Wacker but it will occupy your time. Even can mount one of your own old 2 stroke pipes on it.
Stay positive
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Post by 190mech on Jul 10, 2024 3:48:31 GMT -5
I was thinking more along the lines of Runner 180 engine swap, big 'ol motor making big torque, idling slowly going duding-duding through a big expansion chamber...  |
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 11, 2024 17:58:29 GMT -5
..............You can always swap a qmb or a 150cc gy6 into t2 and keep riding. I know you have enough stuff to do a swap and enough stuff to get it tuned right. Won't be nearly as fun as 12k rpm pissed off weed Wacker but it will occupy your time. Even can mount one of your own old 2 stroke pipes on it.  Crazy talk  |
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Post by Lucass2T on Jul 12, 2024 15:14:12 GMT -5
Yeah man gtfo  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 12, 2024 19:44:14 GMT -5
it will occupy your time. I can assure you, I need no other ideas to occupy my time. LOL I spent all day trying to flow test main jets. There was really no need to check 32 of them, but I'm weird. Even worse, I checked each jet 3 times and tried modifying the test setup along the way. 2L bottle with bottom cutout, upside down. Cap tapped for hose barb, epoxied in because the caps today are so thin that it won't seal otherwise. 3/16" hose > shutoff > 3/16" hose. Main jets fit well in the hose. 24" from end of hose to top of water level. Water level marked on bottle so I could make sure it stayed the same for all tests.   That setup worked well enough, but I got paranoid about flow numbers not seeming to rise at the same rate with larger jets. Flow through the rig without a jet installed was nearly double anything that I tested, but still I worried. I tried putting 1/4" hose over each barb and then using 1/2" hose or near it with hose clamps. That didn't do anything but make it harder to seal. Then I thought maybe a reservoir directly above the jet would help. Got an old DIY boost bottle that I'll never use out. Hose barb in one side and threads for the jets in the other. Didn't flow more. Added a vent hose thinking that may speed up flow. Nope. Back to the original setup.  
This is what I came up with. I think the flow numbers are probably somewhat arbitrary. I've got 24" of water above the jet, not sure on volume. If you tested with more or less water you'd get different results. I just wanted to be able to compare what I have rather than worry about some standard. I almost got wrapped up in a project to build a rig that would keep a set height of water above the jet at all times and horizontal exit flow at the jet after reading about Ford Zenith main jet testing and then I thought... you're still waiting to order a cylinder kit... why spend money testing these things and turn it into a whole thing? I assume flow would be greater with water level always constant instead of draining, possibly changing results with larger jets more than smaller... but I think this comparatively simple method still tells a story. I don't have full sets of all jets, so that's why data points are missing. GZYF are the amazon jets. Flow numbers are ml/min. All tests were 20 seconds. 3 tests gives a 60 second flow figure. Better to do 2-3 tests to watch for inconsistency than to do 1 60 second test for each IMO... and I'm transferring out of a beaker and into a graduated cylinder for more accurate measurement... which takes a lot of time so doing 3x the volume multiple times would greatly increase time/effort. I assure you, it's not just pour in and look. I'm tapping and smacking stuff trying to get air bubbles out and it's a whole process. 
Niche Cycle jets are to be avoided! They are the leanest of all of the jets, but even worse than that is that they have a huge spike at 210 and otherwise there's only minimal change from 205 to 215. The amazon jets aren't awful... but then 235 and 240 flowed less than the 230. Not by a lot, but it's dangerous to think you're adding fuel while reducing it any. Both Keihin and Stage6 jets seem to go up at a good rate without anything that alarms me. Stage6 jets flow slightly more than their Keihin counterparts and their flow rate change doesn't look as steady. I think both are just fine choices though. Now I wish I had Polini jets just to see how they fell in line. Maybe I'll pick up one set whenever I order the cylinder. Maybe not. LOL I'm kinda tired of jet testing... but some part of me wishes I had data from a larger selection and range. It's mostly pointless though. What I think I learned is what I've known for years... go with big name brand jets and buy as many as you can from one manufacturer. Also, orifice size is what we usually think about, but entry design/size matter quite a bit. Example 1) The 210 in the Niche jets that flows way more than the jets around it. Orifice size falls in line, but the entry on the 210 is huge compared to the others. Example 2) My drilled main jet, 2.5mm (250) flows less than the amazon 250 jet. The smaller GZYF jets flow as much as it does. The drilled jet is one diameter all the way through. The others have a larger area at entry. EDIT : I'll spend a whole day on THIS... but I won't take the minute to put a pick on a circlip because it looks OK after the tool installed it. 🤣 |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 19, 2024 13:51:27 GMT -5
Building the first triple cylinder (RC-Three)…  …Or just trying to tune a carburetor. 🤣😂🤣😂😢😭😭😵💀 |
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Crazy talk 
