Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Feb 23, 2010 14:34:02 GMT -5
  This was my end of August project. It was pretty well intact and the owner said "I couldn't find anyone to work on a Geely scooter. Hopefully you'll be able to fix it. The scooter will not go faster than 5 Mph". She was a teacher and had some of her high school students try to fix it. I sounded like a fun challenge to me. Things I found. Somebody was trying to change pilot jets (spares in front compartment), engine ran rich (smokey) and springs in the clutch were stretched. Ran great on center stand. When trying to ride it, full throttle it would just sit there and never gain RPMs/Speed. I replaced the clutch and transmission gasket. This is vertical cylinder/chain drive, so there's oil in the tranny. After a clutch replacement, same condition - revs on center stand, no go when sitting on it. I pulled my hair out on it for about a month. Then the clues started to fit together. The scoot had 50Km on it, so the poor thing probably never ran right. The smoke, oh did it smoke and there was black spooge coming out of the exhaust pipe. Then it hit me. Not enough compression? But its only got 50Km! I tore down the top end. Piston, rings and cylinder look excellent like a new top end should. The head looked ok, but strangely, the air fins looked cracked. When I re-torqued the head and I started it, for the first time, the scooter actually accelerated. I rode it to the top of my driveway and it must have heated up. I heard what sounded like a bearing squeal, then it died. The squeal was actually a whistle through the crack in the head. It would no longer start due to lack of compression. So, the head was cracked, when I re-torqued it, I got more compression from probably closing the crack up to a point where it got hot and expanded. I replaced the head and the scoot is as good as new. The 41QMB vertical cylinder motor is really quite doggish. It is worse up hills than a 50cc 4T, on flats it goes about 30 and about 35 on slight downhills. This was a fun scoot to revive and I learned a few things. It was a good experience but I'm ready to get her to a good home this Spring. I'll need to find a 16 year old who weighs about 120 pounds. Then maybe it will go fast. |
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Post by drawkward on Feb 23, 2010 15:05:36 GMT -5
That's a pretty wild scooter. From the chain drive to the crazy exhaust pipe... Very interesting. Anyone have any info or maybe even a picture of how in the hell the chain drive on these things work?
Good job on the trouble shooting, btw.
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Feb 23, 2010 15:18:51 GMT -5
Very very similar to a minibike I used to have as a kid.
So think minibike/go kart/chainsaw. It is weighted clutch pads held together with springs. The engine spins them, they expand and grab the clutch bell. The clutch bell has the sprocket the chain goes on. The chain goes to a plastic (can you believe it?) gear which spins another plastic gear which drives the rear wheel.
It looks to me like the oil is there for cooling. The clutch does not really sit in the oil, it's above the oil line.
It works, but the belt systems are so much better as you get power from both the vari and the clutch.
Think of a belt scoot as being a 10 speed bike. The chain drive scoot is like the single speed BMX bike.
The clutch is designed to slip when going up hills and I believe the clutch is fully locked or engaged at 2200 RPM.
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Post by Fox on Feb 23, 2010 16:06:30 GMT -5
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Post by drawkward on Feb 23, 2010 16:27:00 GMT -5
Sounds very inefficient. How bad is the added noise from the chain?
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Feb 23, 2010 16:40:21 GMT -5
jmstar50, it sounds like you got that one running properly. The no hill climbing ability is exactly why she has to go. Too many big hills right around me and I'm too big (6'0" about 240lb) for it. Besides, if I wanted to use my legs when going up hill, I'd ride my bicycle. Yes, it's that bad going up hills.  Drawk, believe it or not, you don't hear the chain at all. It sounds like a normal 2 stroke, it just doesn't GO like one. ;D |
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 23, 2010 16:52:22 GMT -5
I've never messed with one. An acquaintance used to have a Geely, I knew it was slow but I never worked on it. I've seen enough info online to know I would prefer to steer clear of them. Sorry it's not what you were hoping, but props for getting it going and thanks for warning the folks who didn't know.
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Post by Fox on Feb 23, 2010 17:05:01 GMT -5
They're pieces of sh*t all right. The carb has a manual choke that you activate with the little thumb lever you see below the left grip but the lever doesn't lock into place. It springs back so you have to hold it the whole time it's warming up.  The carburetor mounts to the head with two screws and one of them is accessed through a hole drilled in the carb body. The problem is the hole is too small to get a #2 Phillips through so you're there trying to tighten a screw with an under-sized driver. It's frickin' retarded. |
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Feb 23, 2010 17:32:12 GMT -5
They're pieces of sh*t all right. The carb has a manual choke that you activate with the little thumb lever you see below the left grip but the lever doesn't lock into place. It springs back so you have to hold it the whole time it's warming up. The carburetor mounts to the head with two screws and one of them is accessed through a hole drilled in the carb body. LOL, thanks for the carb memories. Its been a few months since I worked on it. Most of these things usually have a sheet-metal screw screwed in where the choke thumb lever used to be since the cable sometimes binds and the plastic lever breaks off. This one pictured here is a re-engineered choke lever. I drilled the plastic lever and where it broke, then I screwed in a headless screw (made a point where the head was). I screwed the rest of the lever on to the screw, then added strength with epoxy. On this scoot, The choke lever only needs to be pulled when starting cold. As soon as it starts, I can take my thumb off of it. But think how dumb this is.. It's the same hand that has to squeeze the rear break lever in order to engage the starter. It's no big deal though. No need to be sorry Brent, and yes it's just a warning to stay away from these. This was just a challenge to get it running right, to learn the chain drive (more simple than I thought) and sell it. I figured since the mileage was nothing, I could nurse it back to health and get it out of here. Thanks for the troubleshooting kudos guys. There was a time when I thought I really got stuck with this one. I now know black oil coming out of a pipe might not be from bad oil, but instead bad combustion especially when it only had 50Km on it! |
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Post by Fox on Mar 4, 2010 1:30:35 GMT -5
I found some pics of what's inside that cover on a chain drive. It's all bathed in oil I guess. I can't for the life of me imagine how the clutch grabs being bathed in oil but it does somehow... The engine looks like this: The oil pump is located at the rear of the engine under the oval shaped cover.   Under the cover: You can see the oil lines on the far right. The pump is driven off the rear gear so oil flow increases as the speed increases. kinda clever the guy pinched the oil "in" in the shock.   |
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Mar 12, 2010 10:09:22 GMT -5
Yup, that is exactly what the inside of this yellow scoot looks like.
Thanks for the painful reminder. LOL
No need to worry about speeding tickets with this engine/transmission setup.
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Post by Fox on Mar 12, 2010 14:25:22 GMT -5
What I don't get is how the oil gets injected at idle if the pump is tranny driven? Mysterious... I might have to buy a wreck just to learn the idiocy.  |
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Mar 12, 2010 19:17:01 GMT -5
What I don't get is how the oil gets injected at idle if the pump is tranny driven? Mysterious... I might have to buy a wreck just to learn the idiocy. Oh, that part is really simple. The pump is mounted on the end of the rear axle. It gets NO OIL at all when the rear wheel is not moving. The first suggestion I received on the Geely Yahoo group was to pull the pump and premix. Sage advice that I heeded immediately. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 12, 2010 19:35:05 GMT -5
Wow. Must be intended for people out in the country with no stop signs or red lights.
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Greg
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 218
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Post by Greg on Mar 13, 2010 9:08:49 GMT -5
Wow. Must be intended for people out in the country with no stop signs or red lights. I think the pump injects a little on the rich side so there is enough oil when it stops and is idling. But I think we can all agree that it is a gamble, and a gamble not worth taking. Since I bought this to fix up and sell, I put the pump in a zip lock bag. I have no problem explaining this to a future buyer and let them decide if they want to continue premixing. I took it for a ride the other day. It's now up to 160 Km on the odometer. I bought t with 50 Km on it. |
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