Triton

[Reign]

Apr 21, 2011 18:45:53 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Oh. Well, if I'm looking at the right thing, your mixture screw is up front so it would control air and not fuel. In that case, all the way in for best performance means it's too lean and all the way out is too rich.

Really? Rich is in on the Mikuni, out for lean. There's a space on this carb on the other side of the carb as well, where the Mikuni air screw would be, but it's just a dummy hole, I guess.

[90GTVert]

Usually if the mixture screw is near the inlet of the carb, it controls air. Opening it (turning it out) will let more air in. Closing it (turning it in) will allow less air in. So if that's all the way out (all the way lean) for best results, you'd need a larger pilot. It it's all the way in (all the way rich) for best results, you'd need a smaller pilot. If the screw is nearer the carb's outlet, it controls fuel. Turning in in would shut off more fuel supply. Turning it out would allow more fuel through.

[Reign]

K, new issue. What would cause fuel to run up the main jet and flow out of the air mouth as soon as you turn the fuel on? I just put a new filter on, and when I turn the fuel valve on, fuel runs into the bowl, then makes its way up into the carb, and flows out the air mouth.

[90GTVert]

Float setting or an issue with the float needle/seat.

[Reign]

Apr 23, 2011 15:22:12 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Float setting or an issue with the float needle/seat.

I was hoping you wouldnt say that :rant: That means I have to drain the fuel out of the line, disconnect everything, take the intake back off (I can't take the carb off when it's on the scooter) drain the carb bowl, open it up, figure out whats wrong... This thing is a real headache! :banghead:

[lshigham]

Try giving the carb a few sharp knocks, it has been known to reseat the needle properly.

[drawkward]

I'd say the float level. The float level is what cuts the fuel off just as it reaches the main jet. The vacuum from the engine is what pulls the fuel through the main jet - it's not supposed to be forced into the carb by gravity. If your float is too high by even the slightest amount the float needle won't seal properly and will allow fuel to slowly flow passed it. If you left it like that the fuel would begin to build up either in your engine, or your intake. Depending on how you store your bike. That will make it a bitch to start. I know from experience!

If you really hate the set up on your carb, get a rear facing intake. Not cheap, but will make tuning much less of a head ache. Was wondering if anyone knew where to get one of these, or similar, for cheap...

[90GTVert]

Never seen that style cheap. They're always expensive anywhere I've seen 'em.

[Reign]

I ran the carb out of gas and then turned on the fuel and it worked fine after that. Must've just got caught up on something. On a side note, my adapter didn't work. It was idling low without the adapter in, but after I put it in, it idles insanely fast. I took it back out again, and threw the seat on and went for a test ride. I'll say, it's quicker than I remember, but it's still very out of tune. The top 1/4 of throttle doesn't give any extra speed, just loudness. I'm thinking it's too rich on the main?

[lshigham]

Probably, but it's best to check the plug to be sure.

[Reign]

Apr 25, 2011 14:54:12 GMT -5 lshigham said:

Probably, but it's best to check the plug to be sure.

Still doesn't want to hit over 35, and max speed is around half throttle. I don't have the money to go buying 50 spark plugs for mixture checking, so I'm just gonna throw a higher jet in. If the speed improves, I know to keep going up. If it gets worse, I know to go down. It's funny when people on their lawnmowers and giant city vacuum trucks stop and stare because of that open air filter. This thing is LOUD now.

[90GTVert]

If it's only going 35, no need for doing a ton of plug checks and swaps at this point anyway. Pull it out and see if it's wet or dry after a WOT or top speed run of some sort. If the tune is causing you to drop that much speed, it should be one or the other. That'll give you an idea of what needs to be done. If that still gives you no idea, rich tends to sputter and gurgle. Lean is more likely to sound hollow.

[Reign]

Apr 29, 2011 12:52:33 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

If it's only going 35, no need for doing a ton of plug checks and swaps at this point anyway. Pull it out and see if it's wet or dry after a WOT or top speed run of some sort. If the tune is causing you to drop that much speed, it should be one or the other. That'll give you an idea of what needs to be done. If that still gives you no idea, rich tends to sputter and gurgle. Lean is more likely to sound hollow.

I'm thinking it's lean, then. At WOT, it sounds like it's misfiring. I'll do a run and check the plug to see where I'm at, but it's definitely not gurgling. Just pausing for split seconds at WOT. If I go half throttle, it moves. At WOT, it seems like it's holding back. I can be at 35 MPH, open the throttle just a little more, and it feels like it's losing power instead of gaining.

[Reign]

I threw in the 102 jet that I had from my pack. That's the highest jet I have right now. That got me up to 40 MPH. I'm thinking I'm gonna need between a 110 and 115. I'm gonna try to head to Harbor Freight tomorrow after the swap meet I'm going to and pick up a pack of drill bits. I have two 98 jets, so I'll make one into a 104+ and see where it goes from there.

[2strokd]

Seems like a awful big jet size for your app. You sure you dont have an air leak?