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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2013 20:13:25 GMT -5
I have a 2012 TaoTao CY50-A here that is stamped 1P39qmb. it appears 'P' and '1P39QMB' are not unique to Lifan. I am not out to make anyone wrong here I am just trying to get the correct information out there, I will not apologize for that. There is far too much ego posting here these days and not enough fact posting. Saying things like 'take you [me] to school' and 'make your [my] head spin'. =( disappointing. Good luck on your restoration project maslow22.   |
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Post by ʇwiƨtɘdburnout on Apr 23, 2013 20:37:59 GMT -5
Okay, and?... You have a Lifan engine in it. I bet you have or had a black casing and stock head on it. I respect you almost more than anyone here as far as knowledge is concerned, but no man can know everything. Just like the WD-40 thing. And people can make typos and be drunk or stoned and type the opposite of what they mean sometimes. But I never changed my story. I never said they are the only ones to use "p" in their codes, I said Lifan were the only ones to use "1P39QMB" I was completely correct to this point unless someone can prove me otherwise that the Lifan company does not use the 1P39QMB stamp exclusively on the motors they build, just like the company you posted with BD in the number BD1P39QMB. I'm sure they own that stamp to the motors they make. If this appears on a motor... 1P39QMB then it's a Lifan til I see otherwise  Oh well I agree to disagree. |
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Post by ʇwiƨtɘdburnout on Apr 23, 2013 20:54:37 GMT -5
Oh and I never once Implied that I was schooling you . I was talking to him and nobody wants to be Uncle Tom'd or made to feel stupid, so I kept it simple with him instead of putting him to sleep with technical garbage. Yep I agree, lots of ego's around |
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Post by maslow22 on Apr 23, 2013 23:51:17 GMT -5
Thanks for the support 1fastqmb! Things have taken a turn for the worse. Took a 15-20 min ride, came back home, did some variator tuning - was riding w/ standard 8g rollers and getting slow acceleration and little to no top speed, Id say 15-20mph at 1/4-1/3 throttle and wouldn't go up no matter how much throttle given. Decided to put in some 5g sliders I have, but.... WOULDN'T START....thought it was compression (which was ~120psi before I got it to fire up, and the gauge was a loaner from AutoZone, took it back once I got the motor reved) so I go to tighten the cam shaft retainer bolts. Note - I was working on this at my brother-in-law's place, who has all the tools I need, but when it comes to torque wrenches all I have is a digital torque adapter I got from harbor freight - anyhow - while torquing the bolts to 13ft/lbs one of them was reading 11.8ish then jumped to 15, then to 8ft/lbs  think I may have over torqued it. Anyways - done for today. I'll be back tomorrow with a compression tester and a real torque wrench. Planning on continuing tightening the bolts at 13ft/lbs and if one of them has a stripped housing and won't tighten to that I'm going to JB weld it back in I guess (I don't think I can tap the hole up a size and get another stud for it, if the stud is any larger it won't fit the cylinder and gasket, I don't think so anyway- anyone know for sure?) |
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Post by ʇwiƨtɘdburnout on Apr 24, 2013 0:44:00 GMT -5
Most likely the bolt will strip before the housing does.
I also apologize that some people here in your thread were more interested in arguing about an engine code instead of helping or even commenting on your situation.
I would just wait to get the "real" torque wrench tomorrow before you worry to much IMO. Harbor Freight is garbage a lot of the times.
It's still going to be a little stubborn from sitting. Just keep cranking it and make sure you give 6-8 good throttle chops before re cranking it everytime. It should start after about 3- 5 attempts.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 24, 2013 5:20:28 GMT -5
You may be able to use a Time-Sert or heli-coil if anything strips in the case. I've always had the studs snap on a GY6 before anything stripped.
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Post by maslow22 on Apr 24, 2013 23:40:46 GMT -5
Nothing in the case was stripped, however I did strip one of the bolts that holds the valve cover on while tuning today  Before I began tinkering today I tested compression and it was at 160 psi, but still wouldn't start. Tore it all the way down to the case while checking to see if I had stripped anything yesterday, didn't see anything out of the ordinary- then I noticed I had forgotten to put in 3 or 4 locator dowels. Put those in, put it all back together and now it still won't start and I'm only getting 60 psi compression. I think the problem is the head gasket. When I first assembled the engine with the bbk I used permatex copper spray-a-gasket on the head gasket. When I put it all back together today I don't think it matched back up to how it was. Can I clean it off and reapply it, or do I need to order another head gasket? |
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Post by ʇwiƨtɘdburnout on Apr 25, 2013 2:18:31 GMT -5
Did you ever replace the bolt?
The stripped nut on the valve cover, is most likely place were your losing that kind of compression. I would get another bolt. Going from 160 to 60 would tell me the problem is going to be right there. Spray on gasket? Hmmm I don't like the sound of that, lol! Get a normal one.
Hell we used to make gaskets out of cardboard boxes for our V-8 engines when we would blow them racing at the track.(1/8 mile-1/4 mile) with no gasket seal. that worked fine.
Man I miss those days, lol!
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Post by maslow22 on Apr 25, 2013 6:39:58 GMT -5
Nothing in the case was stripped, however I did strip one of the bolts that holds the valve cover on while tuning today. I misspoke, I stripped the housing in the head that holds a bolt for the valve cover near where the EGR would go. I think the problem is the head gasket. When I first assembled the engine with the bbk I used permatex copper spray-a-gasket on the head gasket. I coated the head gasket in the spray, I didn't use just the spray itself lol - but now it is baked onto the head gasket and I want to know if the spray can be removed from the gasket with out damaging it or if I should just get a new one. Of if I can just spray a new layer of spray and maybe that will fix the problem. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 25, 2013 8:05:18 GMT -5
Just like the case, a time-sert or heli-coil may be able to be used to repair the stripped threads in the head for the valve cover bolt. You can get a new head cheaper than the time-sert kit though.
I would order a new gasket set, and try the spray for now. Even if it seals fine, never hurts to have spare gaskets around. Clean the old gasket off with brake cleaner and a mild abrasive like a Scotch Brite pad. Give it a couple of coats on each side.
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Post by maslow22 on Apr 28, 2013 18:02:23 GMT -5
Tapped the hole on the head from M6 to M7 and bought a bolt, is now on snug on all four holes.
Cleaned that head gasket - spray came off easily with a scotch brite pad. Cleaned the spray from the head and cylinder as well. Removed base gasket, applied 2 coats of copper spray, applied 3 to head gasket - reassembled, torqued inner studs to 13ft/lbs and outer to 8 - got 90-95 psi compression. Torqued to 14ft/lbs - no change. Torqued to 15ft/lbs inside and 10 on the 2 outer studs - compression went up to a little under 100psi. So then I'm thinking - I -KNOW- the compression leak isn't from any of the gaskets - I start turning it over by hand to see if I can hear the leak (was going to apply soapy water to the outside of the gaskets and see if any of em bubbled if I couldn't hear anything). And I hear a leak, coming from the carb - took of the intake manifold - my intake valve is hissing - put some gas on it - and was bubbling pretty fiercely. Checked the valve clearance, its not being pushed down at all and had the right clearance so, bad valve - I contacted the ebay seller (02starrider) I got the kit from and they have offered to send replacement valves, thing is, how do I change those - do I need some kind of equipment? Couldn't find any how-tos around I'm going to try and see if he can just send another assembled head, but I don't think he's going to go for it since the auction was from January.
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1flipflop
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Post by 1flipflop on Dec 27, 2013 16:57:11 GMT -5
1p39QMB= The "p" only means one thing.. It's a Lifan., And it's a great motor. I own the same one and they are the best you can get from CHINA Actually the 'P' code is for Horizontal piston travel but they do not always put it on there.  If ineed replacement cylinder for a 1P39QMB it will be of 44mm bore not 39mm like for the 139QMB so in other words it is a 64cc engine if its designated with the (P) |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2014 5:14:27 GMT -5
Actually the 'P' code is for Horizontal piston travel but they do not always put it on there. If ineed replacement cylinder for a 1P39QMB it will be of 44mm bore not 39mm like for the 139QMB so in other words it is a 64cc engine if its designated with the (P) the P code has nothing to do with displacement. The factory 72cc 47mm bore bikes i have been selling the past 3 years (3 of them left) have all had the P code once again the P code only stands for one thing.... Horizontal piston travel. |
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Post by 1flipflop on Jan 6, 2014 19:49:53 GMT -5
If ineed replacement cylinder for a 1P39QMB it will be of 44mm bore not 39mm like for the 139QMB so in other words it is a 64cc engine if its designated with the (P) the P code has nothing to do with displacement. The factory 72cc 47mm bore bikes i have been selling the past 3 years (3 of them left) have all had the P code once again the P code only stands for one thing.... Horizontal piston travel. Thanks for the Quote, I was going to edit my Quote to sound more of a question than a factual statement, figured ahh wth after posting just left as is, Thanks again |
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