Your image isn't working, so I can't see your exact setup. I woulda fixed it for you, but it's just a 404 error address not an image address for me.
I'm just gonna copy some of my posts from a big thread on ScootDawg about my naked Triton when I was doing the handlebars. I used an aftermarket throttle assembly for my larger carb, you shouldn't need to so it's easier in your case. I used bar end mirrors as well to get rid of the huge stockers. You'll see that I used an aftermakret fuel gauge, but using a good speedometer with a trip odometer, you can get used to how many miles you have before you need gas so the fuel gauge isn't even necessary. I don't have my fuel gauge installed anymore....
I removed all the switches and cables and took my stock handlebars off.
I used a grinder to remove the ugly brackets from the stock bars.
I painted the bars flat black and put them back on the scooter.
Then I installed all of my controls. The left hand side is the same setup it was before. The right hand side has the front brake on the inside, then the stock controls, then the new throttle. I just cable tied the wires and cables in place as neatly as I could.
I only got one bar end mirror on for now. Installation of both is simple. The bar end mirrors slide into the end of your bars (as the name implies) and you tighten a bolt to expand the mirror to a tight fit.
The turn signals are simple as well. Pick a location and drill a hole for the stud on the back of the signal to go through. Attach a nut to the rear of the panel. Connect the wires.
I think this will work better than stock mirrors. It is out far enough to the side that I'm not seeing my own arm in half of it.
I got the mirrors and signals at
D2Moto. They sell on eBay as well, but you can get better prices buying straight from their store.
I know most people mount these on the side, but I thought this looked kinda cool. It should be easily visible from the front as well as the side with the way the fairing curves.
Pretty bright. My stock flasher is working even with all 4 signals LED now.
I'm getting ready to order a fuel level gauge as well. I was trying to win an MSD programmable fuel level gauge on eBay last night. A friend called and wanted me to come over to watch rallyrrr's favorite sport, NASCAR. His connection is slower than mine and when I went to place a last minute bid it didn't refresh fast enough to get it in. A $200 gauge went for $36 new. I'm gonna get an Auto Meter now.
I filled my tank and then drained it with a multimeter attached to the sender. Full is 13ohms, empty is 50ohms. I was hoping to get the programmable gauge cheap because the next closest is '88 and below Ford's 10ohm full, 73ohm empty. Full should be really close, not sure about empty. As long as I know where both really are, that's fine. I know my gas mileage has suffered and looking into the tank to see how much fuel I have doesn't give me that much of an idea unless it's really empty or really full.
I got my fuel gauge in from Summit Racing.
It works pretty well. I had a tiny bit of fuel in the tank when I first checked it and it was on the E mark. I filled the tank with the key on and it seemed pretty linear. A full tank is just over full on the gauge, almost completely pegged. At least that was easy.
I used connections from the stock gauge cluster that was removed. It comes on with ignition power and the lights should operate with the switch. Here are the wire colors from the stock cluster's wiring incase anyone else tries soemthing similar. Once again, this is an 88 and earlier Ford fuel level gauge from Auto Meter with a 73-10ohm range (E-F).
Black - Ground
Red/White - Ignition Switched Power
Yellow - Illumination
White/Blue - Fuel Level Sender
Here's a good speedometer/odometer/trip odometer/clock/etc... and how to install it...
49ccscoot.com/sigma.htmlIf you have a little more cash to spend, the Trail Tech Vapor is a nice replacement for your stock speedo and has a tach and more...
trailtech.net/vapor.htmlGrips are simple. Most grips that fit a 7/8" bar should work, Just find something you like. It will probably be a tight squeeze over the throttle control, but they will fit with a lot of persuasion.
Hope that helps. If you were looking for a real MX handlebar conversion, sorry but I've never done one. It requires either welding/fabrication skills for finding the proper bar mount to fit your steering stem then buying the bars etc.... (aka it's much more expensive).
