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Post by Corrosion on Oct 7, 2012 17:02:44 GMT -5
Has anybody had any experience building an Expansion Chamber. I found some Software online. Just trying to decide if it is a realistic possibility. I have access to reasonable Sheet Metal. I already have a TIG & Plasma Cutter. I would need are a set of rollers and the Software. www.buildandclick.com/html/tuned_pipe_v4.htmlAny comments welcomed. |
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Post by jmkjr72 on Oct 7, 2012 17:19:15 GMT -5
you posted on the right board 190mech is the man for building pipes
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Post by stepthrutuner on Oct 7, 2012 17:26:33 GMT -5
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 7, 2012 19:35:56 GMT -5
Yup,
That is what I'm interested in trying. I am looking at slip rollers now. I thought they were a lot less, last time I looked. Maybe I can find one on Ebay or C.L.
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Post by 190mech on Oct 7, 2012 19:38:15 GMT -5
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 8, 2012 9:57:43 GMT -5
you posted on the right board 190mech is the man for building pipes I just wanna second that comment there :cheers: :thumb: :checkered: |
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 8, 2012 17:28:51 GMT -5
I had the C-16 working with the Daytona Wheel. It stuck out a little far but was acceptable. After I fitted the Torsion Arm it stuck out WAY far. And the mount was not usable. I cut the pipe before the first Cone and re-angled the cuts, Welded it together. moved the mount towards the Arms / Lower bolt. Next came the R1200 pipe. It is a great pipe It Screams with this pipe. I can't bring myself too Hack up a brand new Pipe. My goal is to replicate the C-16 & R-1200 pipes. o With the clearances built in & mount too attach to the middle of the Arm,s Rubber Shock bushings. No more vibrations, Max power from the Kit. Got the C-16 for touring and the R-1200 when you want to Tear It Up. Attachments:
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 8, 2012 17:43:33 GMT -5
Arm Installed & Pipe Re-angled & RE-welded. Attachments:
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 13, 2012 18:56:25 GMT -5
The Good news. Slip rollers came in from Summit. It had me concerned, for it was described as "Chain Driven". I wanted Gear Drive. But From past experience from Summit, if you don't like it. They will take it back. If it is a F-U on their part they will pay the return Shipping. So I chanced it & ordered. It was Gear Driven. As was all the others I had looked at. But there's was $50.00 less. Attachments:
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 14, 2012 17:19:57 GMT -5
Will be looking for some pictures soon of you pipes then  |
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 15, 2012 6:55:07 GMT -5
Nice!!!
So did you tell Summit of their misprint?
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 16, 2012 19:00:57 GMT -5
www.summitracing.com/parts/HCK-WFSR12/It is confusing. They say chain roller, in the beginning of the description. Then at the bottom has hardened steel gears..... Well I made a paper template of the proposed Pipe. All I can say is it was very Humbling Experience. Hope the metal is kinder.
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 25, 2012 19:31:31 GMT -5
So, all the sheet metal I have been saving from Transfer Switch's are too thick. The cones are hard as hell to bend. Then the weight is gonna be the next issue.
Going to take a run to the scrap yard. I'm thinking a refrigerator door, or a car door skin.
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Post by 190mech on Oct 25, 2012 20:12:27 GMT -5
Yeah,20 gauge is what you want..I've built many from fridge,washer,dryer,etc skins..Clean and flat,just gotta fight the funky paint!!   |
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bare
Scoot Member
Posts: 55
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Post by bare on Oct 27, 2012 12:41:43 GMT -5
So far so good :-) I've found it simpler to go to my local Sheet metal/heating shop and pay them the $25/45 to fabricate and Roll my cones according to my supplied patterns. They have the Metals, the Skills and the Equipment to do it, Perfectly and quickly.. every time... Something I can't do. Also this: www.iwt.com.au/mota.htm is a time proven good program, useable for chambers as well. Gotta use the demo tho, as buying it is a bit pricey for a single use. Mild steel works best for overall uses, SSteel is better for racing as it holds heat a bit longer, but it does resonance crack much sooner. |
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