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Post by skuttadawg on Nov 20, 2012 2:08:33 GMT -5
I would like to install a forged crank when I get my tax refund and would like to hear from those that have done so along with which brand . It has to be forged with roller bearings and I would like to know the RPM rating too .
My scooter uses 10mm wristpins so I guess I should get a 10mm crank but wonder if I could use a 12mm crank if I also get a 12mm piston kit .
Would a stroker crank need a shim or extra base gasket ?
Currently its a 49cc with a 47.6mm or 72cc BBK with MMG pipe and Uni
I read where there is a tool to split the case and heard some have done it without the tool and want to ask which way is the best to go . I would like to be able to do this over the weekend in my garage .
Also I can not seem to find a forged piston kit except for outrageous priced racing ones
Any other mods to use a stroker besides shim or extra base gasket ?
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Post by cbaile5 on Nov 20, 2012 14:23:31 GMT -5
There are some really nice cranks out there. What kind of engine do you have? When folks upgrade their cranks they often go to 12mm instead of the 10mm. If you go with a 12mm crank your bet would be to go with a 12mm piston. There are reduction bearings out there that would allow you to run a 12mm crank with a 10mm pin if you choose to go that route. I don't really have experience with stroker cranks. A case splitter can be had for less than $20 but I guess you could tap on the crank if you aren't planning on reusing it to separate the case halfs. Then use the hot/cold method on the new bearings and then repeat with the crank. Good Luck with the build!
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Post by skuttadawg on Nov 23, 2012 21:55:40 GMT -5
I am interested in Athena or Polini since they are better quality than Hoca or other brands
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Post by jmkjr72 on Nov 24, 2012 15:34:15 GMT -5
i have an athena stroker crank and its nice
i would go with the stage 6 crank great bang for your buck and yes upgrade to a 12mm wristpin and get a new piston bearing and pin you should replace at least the pin and bearing with the crank swap
with the stroker crank besides the shims you are going to need to figure out your port timings and made need to do some work to get them right and you will also have to shave the top of the bore to get your squish back where it needs to be also
that is unless you get the bore that is ment to be run with that stroke
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bare
Scoot Member
Posts: 55
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Post by bare on Nov 24, 2012 22:00:14 GMT -5
Curious question. OEM cranks are forged. Webs and rods, 12m wrist pin is capable of higher loadings.
From MY experiences of Stage 6 these are Chinee parts relabeled :-)
Athena stroker crank (mine) was OK but no great shakes either.. Depends on what you are expecting. AS usual there is No free lunch.. just cheap ones and mediocre ones.
Decent costs wayyy more.
You do know that Forged pistons use a specific, larger than cast piston bore /piston clearance ? Hopefully You AND your cyl reborer knows this exact piston (mfg specific as well) clearance..or it WILL sieze.. spectacularly.
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Post by jmkjr72 on Nov 24, 2012 22:56:23 GMT -5
i think you have that wrong about the relabled chinees parts
sure some parts may be relabled but they every part i have from them have been relabled euro parts
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Post by skuttadawg on Nov 26, 2012 0:11:11 GMT -5
I would think roller bearing would be better than ball bearings . None of the ads I read on stock or cheap cranks said they were forged or their RPM limit . I am not wanting to try to blow up my scooter but I would like to enjoy it screaming a lil at times with the assurance my crank will be ok .
Would a stroker crank need anything besides a shim or extra base gasket ?
How can I check the port timing ?
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bare
Scoot Member
Posts: 55
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Post by bare on Dec 12, 2012 16:20:55 GMT -5
i think you have that wrong about the relabled chinees parts sure some parts may be relabled but they every part i have from them have been relabled euro parts Are you SURE 'bout that? Europe is China's ..Biggest...market. Very little is mfg'd there these days. Most certainly the cheap (as in non Luxury) stuff |
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Post by cbaile5 on Dec 13, 2012 6:27:49 GMT -5
If I remember correctly, when my Stage 6 12mm HPC crank came in the mail, it was listed that it was made in Italy. Either way, I haven’t had any problems with it and it looks fine after two case splittings.
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 13, 2012 7:34:05 GMT -5
On there website stage 6 say about their crank
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Post by cbaile5 on Dec 13, 2012 8:25:09 GMT -5
I remember reading that as well. I also haven't heard any bad things about the Stage 6 cranks. I spoke with a guy the other day that said a customer of his has over 10k miles on an hpc crank. I haven't really run mine hard yet but my city 16 will be hare in a few days and I'll get to see how the crank performs at high rpm.
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 14, 2012 5:10:41 GMT -5
I know a few people that are running the HPC and they only have good things to say about it. The City 16 is a real good pipe when you remove the restrictors  |
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Post by cbaile5 on Dec 14, 2012 6:27:07 GMT -5
I was impressed with the crank and I plan on running it for as long as I can. I hope the City 16 is as good as folks say it is. Right now the Stage 6 race kit is being held back by my old ZX.I was going to try a spare pro rep but then I'd have to tune the trans again when the City gets here. So now I'm just patiently waiting. |
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 14, 2012 13:33:58 GMT -5
Does a 10mm and a 12mm crank have the same amount of splines ? Is only the rod different ?
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 15, 2012 9:17:31 GMT -5
Usually the 10mm wrist pin crank will have the smaller shaft for the variator with 17 splines and the 12mm will have the larger with 15 splines. Not always the case, but that's the most common. Also the flywheel taper differs, again small pin/small taper, large pin/large taper. I got one oddball crank from a 90cc ATV that had large pin, large spline, small taper, so you never know for sure unless you check. I think when you buy an aftermarket crank, they'll follow the all small or all large rule though.
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