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Post by 2010roketa on Aug 7, 2013 8:08:45 GMT -5
I have this paint called Plasti Dip gonna try it on some scoot parts and see how it works out. I dunno if it will fill in cracks but its worth a shot. The paint is a little flexible from what I have read. I'll report back with some pics when I'm done
Sent from my SPH-L900 using proboards
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Post by twowheelinjim on Nov 28, 2013 0:02:14 GMT -5
I save some plastic pieces such as a busted mug guard. I cut the busted parts into strips about 1/8" wide and as long as possible. The (clean)strips are used as welding rods along with a soldering iron to mend cracks in similar parts from the inside. Utilizing the strips reinforces the cracked areas and allows me to build up other areas that are prone to damage such as mounting points, etc. I personally use a cheap Harbor Freight soldering iron. I modified the tip into a flat semi-spear shape that gives me a pretty good control when blending a crack together. It's all about practice and consistency. As mentioned previously, a piece of duct tape should be used on the outside of the cracked part to keep things aligned and together while mending. Remember, if you make these repairs a chore, you may not get the results you are wanting. My daughter has turned this activity into and art. She actually asks to help whenever I dismantle a scooter and she checks all the pieces for damage. I'll argue that they don't really need repairs but she is defiant enough to continue arguing until I give in. It's the Tom Sawyer painting a fence thing, and the kids haven't figured it out yet....
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Post by tomcatsdb on Nov 28, 2013 15:59:13 GMT -5
Anything for fixing cracked screw spots? The taotao's have 4 smaller screws used on the body plastics (the cover for the tail light bolts and a set joining the painted plastic to the black lower plastic). When I had the scoot apart for the first time, I accidentally put a set of larger screws in one of the smaller spots and cracked the posts the screws go into.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 28, 2013 16:14:57 GMT -5
I use aluminum plate riveted to the plastic when it's unseen. If I can see it, I drill some small holes in and epoxy it to the plastic.
You can make a bracket out of JB weld (putty style) but you need to sand with #40 grit beforehead and make it pretty large to hold well.
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Post by Goosey on Dec 9, 2013 9:14:17 GMT -5
I save some plastic pieces such as a busted mug guard. I cut the busted parts into strips about 1/8" wide and as long as possible. The (clean)strips are used as welding rods along with a soldering iron to mend cracks in similar parts from the inside. Utilizing the strips reinforces the cracked areas and allows me to build up other areas that are prone to damage such as mounting points, etc. I personally use a cheap Harbor Freight soldering iron. I modified the tip into a flat semi-spear shape that gives me a pretty good control when blending a crack together. It's all about practice and consistency. As mentioned previously, a piece of duct tape should be used on the outside of the cracked part to keep things aligned and together while mending. Remember, if you make these repairs a chore, you may not get the results you are wanting. My daughter has turned this activity into and art. She actually asks to help whenever I dismantle a scooter and she checks all the pieces for damage. I'll argue that they don't really need repairs but she is defiant enough to continue arguing until I give in. It's the Tom Sawyer painting a fence thing, and the kids haven't figured it out yet.... I have seen this method done using zip ties as solder/welding rods on a video. I would go this route. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 7, 2014 23:07:24 GMT -5
Polypropylene does not adhere at all well with epoxy or urethane resin. Welding with a plastic welder is the best bet. There are special coated soldering iron/gun tips available for welding plastic also. Temperature control is advisable. Avoid contamination with rosin etc. Using a filler rod is highly advisable for strength.
The Amazing Goop above is similar to the AUTOMOTIVE Amazing Goop available in 3.7 fl oz (109.4 mL) tubes in most part stores. I use it all the time to repair plastic as above as well as air mattresses or vinyl seats, shoes, RC car/truck bodies (polycarbonate), etc. I have no idea whether the formulation is the same but O'Really charges $5.59 for a tube. It does not work on polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, styrofoam, or paper. I have used it to repair book bindings though... The main advantage is flexibility combined with adhesive strength. It is also self leveling. Sand the surface to be repaired to remove the mold release and rough up the surface to increase the surface area for adhesion.
I have used fiberglass screen or normal metal hardware cloth (screen) for repairs with the Automotive Goop. Multiple layers can be used as well as wire or sheet metal preforms laid in a specific direction for strength. Metal reinforcement like fender washers or Simpson strong tie construction products are also useful for reinforcement.
For small plastic areas the paint sold for polycarbonate RC car/truck bodies is very flexible and adheres to plastic very well. There are also hobbyists around that are real artists with an airbrush.
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Post by Sitticuss on Jan 8, 2014 0:05:38 GMT -5
I use a butane torch with a heat gun attachment, plastic welding rods, some staples, and a folded piece of fine grit sandpaper. If the crack is on a high stress area i sometimes heat a staple with the torch and holding it with a needle nose pliers push the staple across the crack to reinforce it. Then weld the plastic rod over the top. I use the sandpaper to push down on the weld while it is still hot and hold it a few seconds until it cools. You can also use a very small drill bit to stagger holes on both sides of the crack to give the weld something to hold on too. And always rough up the plastic around the crack to give it something to stick too.  |
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Post by moofus02 on Jan 8, 2014 10:27:56 GMT -5
You guys are high tech I've just used zip tires lol
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 8, 2014 12:58:42 GMT -5
You guys are high tech I've just used zip tires lol Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards Check out my scoot mods, but zip ties are what I used for panel 'hinges' on my trike. It was a PITA to align the little tabs and slots when it became time to close things back up. I drilled a small hole in both parts and ran a black nylon zip tie through them so the panel tab/slot arrangement stays together. I can always snip them if I need to completely remove the battery box. I don't have a lot of plastic on my ruckus style R-trike but I don't like dealing with the ones I have. Aerodynamics are not a consideration on a 50cc scoot but frontal area is. Sent from my archaic Acer desktop using Firefox LOL |
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Post by scooterpimp on Mar 30, 2014 18:46:56 GMT -5
Cant leave out the zip tie stich method . AKA frankenstich!
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tvnacman
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 408
Location: NYC
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 31, 2014 11:09:28 GMT -5
All of my scooters are silver duct tape matches well .
John
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Post by scooterpimp on Apr 11, 2014 19:44:34 GMT -5
You can always use some hello kitty decals for the repairs?
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Post by niz76 on Jul 5, 2014 22:10:04 GMT -5
I have this paint called Plasti Dip gonna try it on some scoot parts and see how it works out. I dunno if it will fill in cracks but its worth a shot. The paint is a little flexible from what I have read. I'll report back with some pics when I'm done Sent from my SPH-L900 using proboards Most of the front end of my scoot is painted with Plasti-dip. I also did the luggage rack, but I would advise against that if you use it regularly. The plasti-dip on my luggage rack didn't hold up to use very well. My brake rotors are painted in it, and the rims are next. After some practice it really does peel away from details and sharp edges like in the Youtube videos. It will fill in fairly deep cracks as it is applied quite thick. Plus, if you get bored of the color you just peel it off and voila! your original paint is underneath and still in pristine condition. I am quite happy with the Plasti-dip on my scoot. |
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lonewo1f95
Scoot Junior
Posts: 5 
Location: Indiana
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Post by lonewo1f95 on Jul 29, 2014 18:09:57 GMT -5
Wait? No zipties? Lol. I might try these.
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Post by toslowtogo on Oct 14, 2014 12:12:53 GMT -5
Always stop drill a crack right at the end of it. The crack will not grow because of the radius. You can fill the hole with what ever floats your boat. The plastic gets brittle with age. Just handling the one panel I did the Kevlar cracked where I didn't put the cloth. I will fill the hole with super glue. With it being black I can see 3 new cracks just from handling.
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