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Post by bobkat on Jan 28, 2013 12:06:48 GMT -5
WELL....I learned a few things this morning 1] I believe I have a D1E41QMB not a 1PE40QMB 2] in comparing stock carbs and other parts it seems to be a way better fit. How can you mark 1 engine number and it turns out to be another? Scooter experts out there, is that common w/ chinese scooters. So...I found a post on scootdawg from 3 years ago with the EXACT same problem. Oh..and general performance parts, such as exhaust systems are basicly non-existent. So..I guess one problem solved. However, I would like to add a pod filter that fits [28mm] according to "new" carb info, angled would probably be better and I will purchase a jet set that matches my carb. any help, suggestions, comments will be welcome. THANK YOU all [especially Kevin and Brent] for your help...I learned what a scooter novice I am...great forum,,,,,,bobkat
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 28, 2013 12:12:28 GMT -5
I don't know that mismarking is common, but I will tell you that Chinese scooters can be full of surprises.
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Post by bobkat on Jan 28, 2013 13:57:49 GMT -5
If anybody has been following this post from page 1, you'll luv this. A friend of mine did some researching over the weekend and got info from a supplier in China. He was told I have a true Yamaha JOG 3KJ or 3YJ engine and not a Chinese copy. Don't know if that's good or bad? Don't know if that opens up more performance parts options? Obviously when it comes to these scooters, we don't know much or least I don't. I do know it runs great, maybe it's the Yamaha engine and not a Chinese clone??? I would welcome comments, suggestions and advice, maybe we are helping out another owner. over and out,,,,bobkat
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 28, 2013 16:17:18 GMT -5
I don't really think it's gonna matter. It's still a single speed chain drive, so you won't be finding much. The chain drive is what ruins the whole platform for any serious modding. Small engines, especially 2Ts, need the ability to keep within a certain rev range and the chain drive just can't do that.
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Post by kevin55950 on Jan 28, 2013 16:23:11 GMT -5
I don't think your engine is a Yamaha. 3KJ are genuine yamaha engine case but I saw some chinese engine that were having this code. Yamaha Jog engine are type 1E40QMB. There is merely no performance parts for your scooter. I only saw a cylinder kit that has 2mm more of bore and You'll not see any real improvements with it. Engine like yours were like a response from china to the vertical Minarelli engines from Yamaha that were really popular in the 90's.
P.s. The "common" thing I was talking about was the carburetor type, a Keihin/Keihin copy with screwed flange and small 4mm jets. Some chinese scooter share components between engine types, like the PGO horizontal engine that share some components with the Kymco angled cylinder engine and the 1E40QMB horizontal engine.
I don't found any other interchangable parts that are made for another engine type that fit yours. Someone on another thread told that it might be possible to swap a vertical minarelli from an older Zuma model on those scooter, and by looking at it I see the engine mounts are looking the same. Those case are cheap in good used condition there, and there is a lot of parts available. Some guys are selling engine case with full high performance engine setup for half the price of buying all the parts apart. Also, I'm not a big fan of stage6 parts, I don't care about the brand. I just think it's safer to go with a "quality" pod filter that is $23 than going with a $6 pod filter then put it in trash one week after. I was just sharing my experience, I'm not telling all chinese stuff is crap, there is good and bad like everywhere else.
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Post by bobkat on Jan 28, 2013 18:28:14 GMT -5
Well...pod filter and main jet set has been ordered [check your records]. I will give it a try. Not looking for anything over the top, just something that the grandchildren can drive safely and sound good. I'll be checking back for help if I run into trouble. many thanks you guys,,,bobkat
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 28, 2013 18:54:13 GMT -5
One of my friends had one with a vert engine and chain drive before I was really big into scoots and paid much attention. All stock he rode it around for maybe a year and had a blast on it. IIRC it topped out just over 30MPH. He was prob 20 at the time and owned a truck and a '66 Mustang, so it's not like he had nothing else to get around. Don't let all the talk about it being a poor platform for modding give you the wrong idea on my opinion. All scooters can be fun. I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone in person get on a scooter for the first time and not smile... and that includes my sportbike friends that like to tell me how I need a big bike. lol
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 29, 2013 5:40:52 GMT -5
Brent's right, any scooter can be fun. I used to ride my wife's Honda Vision that topped out at 25mph down some really tight lanes. The suspension had no damping and used to pogo when cornering hard and the center stand used to drag. But what fun!
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rupert
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 236
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Post by rupert on Jan 29, 2013 10:14:31 GMT -5
The thing of it is: these are really a scooter orphan. If you are looking for hop-up tips you have more in common with a "regular" moped, so maybe reading here: www.mopedarmy.com/forums/list.php?7Will be of more use? To use what you have will require some fabrication, I am still convinced a Technigas GP1 will fit/work in there (and have one here I can measure up for you). You can likely fit carbon fiber reeds to your reed block, and possibly put a bigger carburetor on there. But at the end of the day it might be easier (and cheaper?) to do a swap. If it was me I would be more inclined to swap the motor for one out of a pre-2002 Zuma (Minarelli vertical), or for that matter, there are kits to mount a horizontal minarelli/150cc GY6 in there (and they don't look like much and would be easy to make). REALLY: I would be inclined to get it running well/reliably and turn the kids loose on it. After they get the hang of the thing then you can consider which direction to go in.
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Post by bobkat on Jan 29, 2013 11:22:11 GMT -5
You guys are GREAT! For someone with limited scooter or mechanical skills, I have had a blast getting this scooter to run, researching all avenues on jazzing it up, blogging with you experts.....makes retirement more fun each day. Its a bit warmer, couldn't wait to fire her up, took it for a ride today, my 24 yr old stepson stopped by and zipped around the block....now he wants one,,,Brent your words ring oh so true! I still haven't spent $100, for this scoot that I found in the trash!!! Always a hitch however, OIL LEVEL in bottle: w/o a dipstick, how do I know how much oil to put in? I made a dipstick to check, @ 1 1/2 inches of oil in the bottle, roughly, is that enough? CRANKCASE OIL: I see the rubber stopper, how much oil do I put in there? Read that regular 10-40 is ok for the crankcase? always trying,,,,bobkat
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Post by kevin55950 on Jan 29, 2013 14:56:12 GMT -5
It's a 2 stroke, you fill the bottle, the oil pump take the oil it needs and inject it in the engine. It burns the oil so add some from time to time. There is no necessary oil level like in a 4 stroke engine. Just don't miss oil and it will be okay.
I don't know it for the crankcase, I'm not used to those chain driven, wet clutch transmission. I think there is the necessary oil level somewhere on the case, near the dipstick, on the rear of the engine case. All my scooters were having the oil level on the rear part of the case near the dipstick.
It might be a good idea to change the oil in the crankcase by the way. Don't use automotive oil with a wet clutch because automotive oil will make your clutch slip. If it's 10W40 the oil you need, you can buy some Castrol Superbike 10W40 oil, I use it in my atv without problems and the price is great, I paid around 6$ a liter here, other oils are 10$ or more a liter.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 2, 2013 0:14:36 GMT -5
I've never heard of a wet clutch on a scooter, but if that's the case, then you need to use an oil that has doesn't have any friction additives modifiers in it, so get motorcycle oil, not automotive oil.
As for filling crank case, usually, the fill hole will be horizontal, and you fill it until oil spills out the fill hole. This is the case for automotive rear diffs, transmissions, scooter rear drives, motorcycle final drives, etc. you should take a clear picture of the fill hole area and we should be able to tell you for sure.
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rupert
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 236
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Post by rupert on Feb 2, 2013 14:50:57 GMT -5
"then you need to use an oil that has friction additives in it"
They are called "friction modifiers", and that is the absolute worst thing you can do to a wet clutch, it causes the clutch to slip, in a scooter, motorcycle, tractor, bulldozer, or a loader. There are no "friction modifiers" in "motorcycle oil", or in Shell Rotella T (officially diesel oil, or a poor man's motorcycle oil) ALL standard automotive oils (car oil) have friction modifiers in them.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 2, 2013 16:41:14 GMT -5
Corrected, thanks for pointing that out. I had it backwards. Regardless, use motorcycle oil. :-)
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Post by bobkat on Feb 4, 2013 13:24:59 GMT -5
hey....so I can use motorcycle oil in the crankcase, how much? there are pics on pgs 1 and 2 showing the rubber stopper and crankcase, it's on the top near back not horizontal as I can tell. take a look, maybe somebody can figure it out. would I fill that up?
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