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Post by aznatama on Feb 9, 2013 3:01:47 GMT -5
So my new pipe unexpectedly arrived today, and bolted right up! Not sure why stock was so far off, oh well. I installed the 1000 Naraku spring, and put everything back on except variator cover for now. I then fired her up to make sure everything was working properly, but didn't have much time to tune anything much other than change the main jet to #85. So, a number of issues right off the bat: Lighting: Anyone have HIDs on their scooters? seems like voltage is not stable, since my LED bulbs flicker a bit. Looks like i'll ahve to get a relay to run directly from the battery. Idle: What idle speed should a 70cc BBK engine be at? It's currently set at a rather high 950. Jetting: It's running really rich in the low end. I don't have much space to go WOT right now, being only in the parking garage, but after a partial throttle ride about 50ft, the motor will idle a bit high (~2000) before slowly coming back down to the pre-set idle speed. Not sure where to start with the adjustments. Could this be caused by the high idle speed? Variator Removal: Can anyone tell me how to use this tool on the front pulley? I know how to use it on the rear, but I'm not sure if I can use it in front, or if it will even work in front. Thanks.    |
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Post by aznatama on Feb 9, 2013 3:04:03 GMT -5
Oh, and I've started a build thread, more pics there
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Post by aeroxbud on Feb 9, 2013 5:32:53 GMT -5
You need one of these tools or an impact gun.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 9, 2013 9:10:55 GMT -5
Lighting: Anyone have HIDs on their scooters? seems like voltage is not stable, since my LED bulbs flicker a bit. Looks like i'll ahve to get a relay to run directly from the battery. My LEDs only flicker at idle. I kinda like it, because I think it would grab your attention more if I'm sitting at a red light or something. You can probably just up your idle RPM slightly and get this to stop if it bugs you and it's the only time they flicker. Idle: What idle speed should a 70cc BBK engine be at? It's currently set at a rather high 950. Manuals state something like 1,700RPM. It doesn't matter too much as long as it's not gonna cut out or run away. 950RPM is definitely too low to expect the charging/lighting system to operate properly. Jetting: It's running really rich in the low end. I don't have much space to go WOT right now, being only in the parking garage, but after a partial throttle ride about 50ft, the motor will idle a bit high (~2000) before slowly coming back down to the pre-set idle speed. Not sure where to start with the adjustments. Could this be caused by the high idle speed? Richen the mixture screw until RPM doesn't hang returning to idle. You may have to readjust once you get the main jet and needle where they need to be. Variator Removal: Can anyone tell me how to use this tool on the front pulley? I know how to use it on the rear, but I'm not sure if I can use it in front, or if it will even work in front. Thanks. Don't use that on the front or you'll end up busting off fan blades, trust me. You either need a minarelli specific holding tool, an impact, or some folks use a piston stop of some sort. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/4273/variator-nut-removal?page=1 |
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rupert
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 236
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Post by rupert on Feb 9, 2013 15:08:48 GMT -5
'Anyone have HIDs on their scooters? seems like voltage is not stable, since my LED bulbs flicker a bit. Looks like i'll ahve to get a relay to run directly from the battery.'
There really isn't enough current generated by the marginal charging systems to power that kind of foolishness. The electrical system supplies the lights directly with ANY excess going to maintain the charge in your battery.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 9, 2013 18:06:45 GMT -5
There really isn't enough current generated by the marginal charging systems to power that kind of foolishness. The electrical system supplies the lights directly with ANY excess going to maintain the charge in your battery. 35w Halogens and 35w HIDs (digital ballast) draw about the same current when warmed up. There's no difference in electrical load excet at startup (thus requiring a relay direct from the battery. 55w halogens draw more power than HIDs. I see no reason to not upgrade, especially with the piss poor H1S bulbs that scooters have. Not very safe for night riding. Accent lights have already been replaced w/ LEDs, and I'll probably replace speedo light w/ LED once I locate it. Overall current draw should actually be less this way. |
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Post by jmkjr72 on Feb 9, 2013 18:51:25 GMT -5
to run hid you need dc juice most of our scoots run the headlights off of ac side of the stator not the dc side
you only get around 14watts dc on the slandered stator for these scoots (yamaha offers a 12 pole stator)
what you will find is they will work for a bit till the battery is drawn down and then they wont work
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Post by aznatama on Feb 9, 2013 19:31:55 GMT -5
How do headlights run off AC power? Is there a transformer on the bike? I'm not sure I get it... to me, HIDs only draw more amps during warm-up, but afterwards, it's lower than halogen. I can't see how replacement with HIDs is going to be detrimental as long as the scooter is run long enough to make up for the initial power consumption
Unless there are two different systems on the scooter, one AC, one DC, with AC exclusively powering only the lights? Is this possible? then is the battery only the starter?
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Post by jmkjr72 on Feb 9, 2013 22:06:19 GMT -5
scooter wiring is harder then you think
your stator makes ac juice not dc
turn the key on every thing that works is run on the dc side of your ele system normally this is horn turn signals brake lights and a running light if one is installed
then anything that only works when the scooter is running runs directly off the stator (ac juice)
you do have a rectifier that converts a very small amount to dc to charge the battery and run the couple of dc items on the scooter
you can get a diffrent rectifier and rewire your scooter and rework your stator to only have one cirsut and put all the juice to the rectifier
now there are some scoots out there that are full dc like most of the newer efi scooters and kymco also has full dc bikes
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Post by aznatama on Feb 10, 2013 0:14:13 GMT -5
After doing a ton of research, WTF... why would a scooter be dual AC/DC? why not all DC? what a pain in the rear.
Looks like I can just use a relay harness, relying on the halogen "high beam" in the daytime, and only using my HID's at night.
Looks like I can just use a bridge rectifier coupled to a small capacitor from the headlight connect to send to the relay.
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rupert
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 236
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Post by rupert on Feb 10, 2013 6:36:27 GMT -5
"why would a scooter be dual AC/DC?"
Must be cheaper to make them that way? Just keep in mind: you over draw the stator: you will be buying a new one, you over draw the wiring, or the voltage regulator: you will be letting the magic Chinese smoke out of those items.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 10, 2013 13:50:37 GMT -5
If I connect it directly from the battery w/ a relay, then the only negative thing that would happen is I'd drain the battery. I'm okay with that. I'll figure this out later, I pulled out the HID and I'll just sit on this project for a while. I need to get the scoot up and running.
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