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Post by aznatama on Feb 27, 2013 13:31:23 GMT -5
Got another soft seize today, was slowly revving up to about 10,500 rpm when this happened. I was trying to keep it under 9500, but some suv was riding my tail at 40+mph even though the speed limit on that road was 30. I wasn't even at WTO, only about 75%. I pulled over, and was immediately able to restart the engine, so it wasn't that bad.
I've already increased the oil delivery, but I'm suspecting that it's just low quality oil that was filled at the shop. I'll wait til this 3rd tank is done before I pour in the synthetic amsoil.
The engine seems to want to rev past 10500, but I'm afraid the stock crank is not up to par for sustained 10+ rpms.
So, question; Will using better oil help? Do I need a longer break-in? the cyl walls look nice and polished last time I pulled the head.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 27, 2013 15:16:07 GMT -5
A better oil could help, but the most common reasons for soft seizes are lean tunes or air leaks. I would never think too hard about a soft seize until after doing a proper leak/pressure test.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 27, 2013 15:32:43 GMT -5
Well, I have good compression, but really have no way to perform a leak-down test. I'll just run it easier for this tank before I top off with the synthetic oil. I don't see a way to empty the current oil, so I'll just mix it. Also, I have no idea if I'm leaning out on top or not, I haven't been able to do a sustained WOT run, so I have no idea. I still need to move that needle clip as well.
Thanks
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 27, 2013 15:50:23 GMT -5
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Post by stepthrutuner on Feb 27, 2013 20:45:56 GMT -5
I've already increased the oil delivery, but I'm suspecting that it's just low quality oil that was filled at the shop. I'll wait til this 3rd tank is done before I pour in the synthetic amsoil. Please beware that a heavier oil mix will move the fuel/air mixture toward leaner since the extra oil is taking the place of gasoline in the overall volume of the fuel/oil mix. This is especially true if you premix. Sometimes you have to play with different needle tapers to not get a soft seize at light throttle openings. Strong tail winds causing high speeds at low throttle openings can cause soft seizes.
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Post by aznatama on Feb 28, 2013 2:02:57 GMT -5
I'll still be using the same amount of oil, just a better lubricating oil. At least I think that's how it works. I'll ahve to move the needle up one clip, but don't have time to do that tonight, so I'll have to wait 2 weeks since I'm going out of town. Thanks for the reply guys.
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 1, 2013 12:25:13 GMT -5
Have you done a plug chop ?
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Post by snakeplissken on Mar 3, 2013 18:11:25 GMT -5
How many miles do you have on the new cylinder head? Have you pulled out the plug and checked the color of it? You should do what skuttadawg suggests. Put a clean plug in and rev it full throttle on the stand and shut it down right away. Don't let it idle! This way you will get a good idea how it's running.
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Post by aznatama on Mar 4, 2013 17:21:37 GMT -5
How many miles do you have on the new cylinder head? Have you pulled out the plug and checked the color of it? You should do what skuttadawg suggests. Put a clean plug in and rev it full throttle on the stand and shut it down right away. Don't let it idle! This way you will get a good idea how it's running. I have about 3 tanks through the new cyl head, so roughly 150 miles maybe. Speedo's broken and I haven't had time to pull everything apart troubleshoot it. I've pulled the plug, and it looked rich, this was before I switched to the cone filter though. I though you had to run at WOT of a while in order to do a plug chop, not just rev it once on the stand?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 4, 2013 21:49:26 GMT -5
I never check plugs on a center stand run for WOT. Maybe to get me in the ballpark if I'm struggling with a needle or something, but gotta get it out under full load to really know what's up IMO.
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Post by snakeplissken on Mar 5, 2013 15:32:42 GMT -5
You can get a very good idea how it's running racing it up on the stand But no matter how you do it once you let off WOT cut the motor off. Do it on the stand then take it out like 90TVert said and see how it is under load.
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Post by aznatama on Mar 6, 2013 4:17:50 GMT -5
I can't cut it after WOT on the road... when I tried to last time, it would stay running until the scooter slowed down, like the clutch was still engaged (felt like some engine braking going on). Even though the spark was nonexistent, the running would no doubt still suck in fuel, thus affecting plug color right?
I always thought it would act like my RC car, when throttle is closed, clutch would disengage and it would effectively be in neutral. This apparently isn't the case.
So that leaves me to the question of how do I do this while on the road? slam on the brakes immediately?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 6, 2013 10:04:26 GMT -5
If you wanna shut it down quick on the road you have to brake after hitting the kill switch to get it to stop.
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Post by aznatama on Mar 7, 2013 2:03:49 GMT -5
Ok, I'll try that this coming Sunday when I get back. Thanks.
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 15, 2013 7:22:01 GMT -5
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