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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 26, 2013 19:52:28 GMT -5
Hi its me again.
So after about a five minute ride to the shop the scooter was fine. Turned of and sitting for about 5 minutes then back home but for some reason at first it felt like the rear disk break got stuck on one position but it wasnt. Try to push the scooter and it just jams up in the rear. Took the CVT cover off and notice some grinding has been going on. Signs of it on the clutch and inside of the case. But magically the jamming is gone.
Any ideas?
And while I'm at it, I just bought a Suzuki sj50 2004 that I plan on rebuilding and tinkering with so I can learn more about 2stroke engines. Where do I start? I plan on making it a performance 50cc as its going to be my road legal scooter as my yamaha aerox I have just got me a fine for having unrestricted race parts...
Jay
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 26, 2013 20:12:25 GMT -5
Is the clutch bell all the way on with the nut tight
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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 26, 2013 22:20:28 GMT -5
Is the clutch bell all the way on with the nut tight Yes because I thought that might of been the problem at first but when I went to tighten it. It was as tight as it could be. What I did notice as well is I could easily turn the front variator around, is that normal? |
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Post by aznatama on Mar 27, 2013 0:40:06 GMT -5
That's odd. If the clutch the wrong size? is there any free play in the shafts? take apart the variator, are all the parts there? is it missing the star washer/key? are the splines intact? etc.
I would take apart your entire transmission and service it thoroughly, clean and re-grease whatever needs to be greased. Take off rear wheel, drain oil, and make sure all the gears are meshing properly, then refill with good synthetic gear oil, etc.
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Post by kevin55950 on Mar 27, 2013 7:58:41 GMT -5
On Zuma's, with a powerful engine the clutch shaft tends to go farther in the gearbox (bearings become loose in their fitment or on the shaft) so the TD rubs against the case and the engine stops. If it goes far enough, the clutch bell block the clutch from turning so the rear wheel locks also. I've experienced it some times. Maybe a worn out clutch shaft bearing can do this.
As aznatama said, take apart everything and look for anything that isn't normal.
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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 27, 2013 16:19:47 GMT -5
That's odd. If the clutch the wrong size? is there any free play in the shafts? take apart the variator, are all the parts there? is it missing the star washer/key? are the splines intact? etc. I would take apart your entire transmission and service it thoroughly, clean and re-grease whatever needs to be greased. Take off rear wheel, drain oil, and make sure all the gears are meshing properly, then refill with good synthetic gear oil, etc. I haven't had the time to take everything apart but I have noticed that the kick start has been sticking at the bottom after a kick. Edit: Upon inspecting everything is fine and re greased. Ive narrowed it down to being the rear breaks i think, because every time i break it buurrss like the ABS or something like that isnt working and wants to lock, and its kinda getting worse and worse. Is it better that it its the breaks and not the drive chain? Breaks are Brembo disk breaks either single or dual pots. |
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Post by aznatama on Mar 28, 2013 2:20:21 GMT -5
You have real brembos?? or do you just mean you have a red caliper... they're NOT the same. Also, you have rear discs? what scooter do you have?
disc brakes usually do not drag unless the disc is warped. improperly bled brakes lead to lack of braking, not increased braking. post pics.
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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 28, 2013 2:50:08 GMT -5
You have real brembos?? or do you just mean you have a red caliper... they're NOT the same. Also, you have rear discs? what scooter do you have? disc brakes usually do not drag unless the disc is warped. improperly bled brakes lead to lack of braking, not increased braking. post pics. I have a yamaha Aerox, and yes they are real brembos because it says brembo on them and looks exactly the same as this i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/311024531/-Free-Shipping-motorcyle-Brembo-Brake-Disc-Brake-calipers.jpg. Usually when i slow down from 50kmh it makes a really soft bzzzz kinda sound where as now after it locked up a few days ago it goes buurrrr and locks as i slow down and slips. will update with pics. |
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Post by aznatama on Mar 28, 2013 12:12:40 GMT -5
when you slow down, are you using your brakes? front or rear? what if you just allow it to engine brake to sloe down w/o using the brakes?
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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 28, 2013 18:07:12 GMT -5
when you slow down, are you using your brakes? front or rear? what if you just allow it to engine brake to sloe down w/o using the brakes? I use both breaks at the same time so that im not always putting to much work on the one break. When i let it engine break i can hear the rear break rubbing and feels like its still engaged and when accelerating it feels like its holding me back till a certain speed. |
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Post by ryan on Mar 28, 2013 20:42:27 GMT -5
if i were you id take some break cleaner and either let the whole break sit in it or give it a good clean
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Post by aznatama on Mar 28, 2013 23:13:55 GMT -5
you should be able to tell if the brAke is dragging just by rolling the scoot around w/ the engine off. It's not uncommon to have slight rubbing, as long as it doesn't increase effort required to push the scooter around.
otherwise, I doubt it's the brake. You could also remove the pads and see if the problem persists. Just remember to NOT PULL THE LEVER if there are no pads installed. Safer to remove the disc for this test actually... but I don't think the brakes should come on at all w/o you pulling the lever.
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Post by ryan on Mar 28, 2013 23:22:32 GMT -5
drain your gear oil and measure it..maybe your gears are locking up from to low of oil level.
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Post by jaytheking13 on Mar 29, 2013 19:30:33 GMT -5
you should be able to tell if the brAke is dragging just by rolling the scoot around w/ the engine off. It's not uncommon to have slight rubbing, as long as it doesn't increase effort required to push the scooter around. otherwise, I doubt it's the brake. You could also remove the pads and see if the problem persists. Just remember to NOT PULL THE LEVER if there are no pads installed. Safer to remove the disc for this test actually... but I don't think the brakes should come on at all w/o you pulling the lever. I did some testing, when I use the engine to slow down the rear breaks are very hot and the front are only just warm. Then compares that to stopping hard with front breaks and even then they were warm. Plus the rear break leaver doesn't feel the same as the front. As for draining gear oil, I found the drain hole. But what oil do I put back in. Thanks for all the help so far. |
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Post by aznatama on Mar 29, 2013 19:43:28 GMT -5
You should be able to find gear oil for the case. As for the brakes, sounds like you may have an issue if it's hot. press the pistons in, and see if they stay in. Have you done any brake work recently? Have you bled the brakes just to flush out the system? hydraulic brakes dragging sounds like a weird problem, sound like something is not releasing pressure (master cyl?) or the pistons are gummed up and need to be rebuilt.
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