|
Post by bigguy420 on Mar 28, 2013 14:45:06 GMT -5
[b ]Hello, Im new here to the forum and had some basic questions that I know everybody has answered at some point but my Questions are a little different. First let me start by saying this... I have been reading a lot on here and other forums and have defiantly educated my self a lot and just had some other questions.
i'm 6'2 and weigh about 267lbs give or take. And I own a 2012 Taotao CY50-T3
1. I was thinking about installing a 100cc kit (50mm) on my Taotao 50cc and the shop I went too said it wasn't a good idea and that it wouldn't last me. is this true? I really would like to upgrade the horsepower but do not want to damage my scooter. he told me I might have a 63cc it's pretty decent on flat ground once I get going (around 24mph - 34 mph GPS verified) I live in the mountains in NC and my scooter defiantly struggles up hill.
2. I was also thinking about changing the torque spring to a 1500k just to help out a little on the take off. is this a good idea?
3. I have also purchased some 1500k clutch springs to install. Would this be okay to match my Torque spring?
[/b] 4. The scooter is completely stock except the Spark plug ( iridium spark plug)
First I was going to change the torque spring (15k) and the clutch springs (15k) to see where I was at going up the hills. Then maybe an after market exhaust.
I just want more power going up the damn hillz in my area.
plus I was thinking about changing my roller weights to sliders after I install the "springs" but since i'm a bigger guy would I be best to go 7g -8grams or lighter?..... my commute to work is only 5 miles one way but theres a couple of bigger hills that slow me down to about 8mph. I know its a lot of trial and error but just wanted to get more opinions.
Is it a bad Idea to get a BBK ?
what would be a good combination for my fat ass? I plan on buying a 150cc but not this year so Im stuck with this 50cc for now. I just want the best possible performance possible without damaging my scooter. thank you for your time. any answers will help!
I want take off acceleration and decent top end.[/font]
|
|
|
Post by oldunclestevo on Mar 28, 2013 14:52:50 GMT -5
The 72cc bbks seem to have less issues than the bigger ones. Experimenting with lighter rollers is a great idea IMO. Also look into an exhaust and pair that with an open air filter. The stock carb on that is sealed so you might want to toss that away and buy a different one and put a bigger jet in it. I bought the ncy transmission kit and that seemed to help a good bit but it has 9g rollers and they ar far too heavy
|
|
|
Post by Goosey on Mar 28, 2013 15:21:16 GMT -5
Lighter rollers/sliders will help on the hills, 5.5 gram would do you. I prefer sliders.IMO start there before the other changes.
If you go with an open air filter, then you will want the unsealed carb, you will most likely need to do jet changes with that. 4 stroke, exhaust changes don't do so much for the power like they describe for the 2 stroke.
|
|
|
Post by oldunclestevo on Mar 28, 2013 15:52:54 GMT -5
Yeah but u still want the exhaust opened up if youre bringing in more air
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 28, 2013 15:58:40 GMT -5
A big bore kit is gonna give you the most improvement. The added displacement makes a big difference for anyone I think, but I can definitely say they help a lot for big guys (being one myself). 50-52mm kits seem to be the hot sellers these days. I'm not so sure I'd want to install one on a scooter I had to depend on, short of upgrading the crank and bearings as well and then you're getting into a pretty big chunk of change. The 47mm kits put less stress on the rest of the engine. I'm sure you sacrifice a bit of power, but it may be worth it for a daily rider.
I see you mentioned the clutch springs matching the torque/contra spring. They serve totally different purposes, and do not need to be matched. The clutch springs control the engagement of your clutch. Once the clutch is engaged, their job is done. The torque spring counteracts the roller weights to dictate the RPM that the CVT will operate at. Swapping rollers or sliders is a much easier job than swapping out contra springs, so I would advise working with the rollers/sliders as others have advised.
Lighter rollers or sliders will help you keep the RPM up on the hills and may help you out a little, sometimes a lot. I also prefer sliders over rollers. They last a very long time in comparison to rollers and you may see a little performance increase over rollers. 5-6g seems to be the norm for an otherwise stock scoot.
If you do the bore kit, air filter, or exhaust plan on tuning the carburetor. Anything you do that can increase airflow through the engine will likely need a larger main jet, sometimes a larger pilot jet, and you may have to adjust the idle mixture screw and needle position. It's very important to have the carb in tune. Too little or too much fuel will rob you of power. Too little and you can run hot and have premature engine failures. Always err on the side of rich if you are unsure, since it's the safer way to be off on the tune.
|
|
|
Post by oldunclestevo on Mar 28, 2013 22:13:39 GMT -5
To quote the old folks... "Theres no replacement for displacement"... Until there is a supercharger for us
|
|
|
Post by bigguy420 on Mar 29, 2013 10:22:03 GMT -5
wow guys thanks for the quick response. my next question would be this/ If I have a 63cc already wouldnt it make sense to go with the 100cc (50mm) since 72 bbk wouldnt be much of an upgrade? also when I install the Torque spring (15k) would it be best to go with a 2k clutch spring? I know they don't work together but I'm still a little confused on what would be my best option with the clutch spring... or leave it stock? I defiantly want to upgrade the exhaust and carb. I have a good idea which Exhaust I want. What size carb would you guys recommend and jets? and If I decide NOT to get a BBK I was wondering what I should jet the new carb at with the new exhaust and air filter?? which leads me to another question.... what type of air filter would you guys recommend With the slider weights and 15k torque spring and my weight should I go 5.5 sliders or maybe 5.0grams??? thanks guys again.
|
|
|
Post by oldunclestevo on Mar 29, 2013 10:51:50 GMT -5
As far as the carb you can just use a stock carb, start with an 85 jet. Then test and inspect the plug. With a bbk you might want to go bigger. Youre stock one should be 18 mm.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 29, 2013 12:06:41 GMT -5
Unless you already have the torque spring, save the money on it and just sliders. If you do install a 1.5K torque spring, you'll need heavier sliders.
If it's really a 63cc, I think you'll find a stamping of "6B" on the rear top area of the case, near the wheel. I don't know that the 63cc has a crank or bearings any better than a 49cc. The crank and bearings are what were failing with bigger kits on these engines. Some people install 50mm+ kits and don't seem to have much trouble. Some people have cranks fail with the stock 39mm (49cc) bore and not a lot of miles.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2013 19:42:59 GMT -5
The single best thing you can do to get better uphill performance is lighter variator weights. The ligher the weight, the slower it 'changes gears' The heavier the weight, the quicker it 'changes gears' When climbing themdamnhillz you dont take off and go to 3rd or 4th gear too quickly of course so use lighter than stock (7g-8g) weights.
The correct size variator weights combined with a 50mm bore will greatly improve hill climbing and will be relatively inexpensive if done right. Here in Raleigh I have found the sweet spot to be 5.5g weights with the stock torque spring. its best to just leave the torque spring stock and use variator weights to change gearing.
In Raleigh and there is little truly FLAT ground here. Its not HILLS like where you are but sure there are some. If I was where you are I would use 5g weights. A 95 main jet works best with 50mm bore I have found.
NOW If you REALLY want a drastic improvement in hill climbing there you want a stroker crank. However, at the weight of the rider of this particular bike, the variatior slide keys would not handle the pressure and would fail in pretty short order. I have not yet found an easy way to overcome this 'weak link' in the 139qmb using stroker cranks other than lots of labor by an experienced and handy person.
I feel your best bet is: 50mm kit with 95 main jet UNI filter 5g weights kevlar belt 1500 rpm clutch springs (yellow) orange coil, stock cdi and iridium spark plug.
|
|