stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 15, 2010 12:54:14 GMT -5
i have a midwest apollo ft 502. i have a few pictures i am going to try and upload as i am having a few problems with the ped and want some input. im getting a used exhaust today, and getting lighter weights put in to see if my 0-25 area is better. i am maxing out at 4000 rpms most of the time (30-32 mph) and when i hit 5000-6000 i can go 35-40 easy, but i can rarely ever hit those rpms. i have a crack or two in a few places on plastic pieces and tubing, and ill try to show them in the pictures. the first is on the black thing that connects the carb to the engine, it has a few cracks, and i assume that is probably a bad thing? also the tube that goes into the air intake box has holes along the bottom of it, and there is another tube (that comes from the valve cover) to this tube. i dont know what either of these do, but like i said, i dont think that the one going into the air intake needs to have any holes... img255.imageshack.us/img255/5936/ped002.jpgimg130.imageshack.us/img130/1629/ped001.jpglet me know if those links work for the pics please. i will also let you guys know how the new exhast and lighter rollers do. i am eventually wanting to get some dr. pulley sliders, but i dont know what size to get yet, so im playing around with wieghts before i decide. thanks for any and all input |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 15, 2010 13:46:49 GMT -5
The pics do work, but the first one isn't very clear.
You definitely should be revving higher than 4000RPM. Even 5-6000RPM is a bit below peak power. Lighter roller weights and/or a stiffer contra spring should get the revs up.
I don't think the exhaust is going to do a whole lot for a stock engine.
Cracks in the intake (pic 2) can definitely hurt performance and driveability. I can't tell from the pics of the cracks go through the intake, but you can pick them up pretty cheap so it might be worth replacing. You can spray carb cleaner on the cracks or any suspected leaks around the intake while the engine is idling and if it really is a leak the engine should respond.
Holes in the air inlet in pic 1 shouldn't have any great effect on performance.
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Post by Fox on May 15, 2010 14:47:30 GMT -5
What he said^^^ You can cut the hose in the pic off at the line I drew on it so you get better flow in but it'll collect water if you ride in the rain. Remove the elbow from the engine and look at it to see if the cracks are serious or just surface cracks. Don't over-tighten the clamp that holds the carb on there. That's a sure-fire cause of splitting. Tight is good too-tight is bad.  You can also try removing the smaller tube inside the air box to increase air flow But it might cause your scoot to run worse. Check the plug color after modding anything.   I actually drilled holes in an air box to get more flow on my old scoot because I had a black plug. Again rain wouldn't be your friend if you do this. I never ride in the rain so it was okay for me.   |
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 15, 2010 15:23:16 GMT -5
ok i just got back from the local moped shop. he broke it.... he was changing the weights like i said, and he took the nut off the left one (i think a variator) and then changed the weights. in trying to put it back on, he stripped the screw (came off in the first place) and it no longer comes on or off... the metal piece and plastic looking piece behind the bold is loose, and it wont electric start... i had to let him start it with an impact wrench and let me ride it home 6 miles....      in the middle one the yellow piece and the metal piece with teeth are no longer one piece, the metal piece will spin freely. any clues as to what im going to have to do or need to buy to fix this? bummmmmmmer........ |
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Post by Fox on May 15, 2010 15:28:42 GMT -5
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 15, 2010 15:39:31 GMT -5
The guy that was working in it said I would have to somew
how get the strippped screw on, buy a new piece from him, and I would be able to ride it till he dies.
But he won't fix it. Said he can't and won't.
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 15, 2010 15:45:13 GMT -5
So it's a whole engine repair. Would it just be cheaper for me to look in local craiglist for a new one? I see that was 270$ but I can't put a whole engine on myself so we are probably talking 400+$ and a used moped goes for around 500-600.
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Post by Fox on May 15, 2010 15:55:22 GMT -5
I have a motor with around 4000 mi. that I'll sell you for $100 + shipping and we'll all talk you through the process of changing it out. You just have to ask the right questions. :popcorn:
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Post by 90GTVert on May 15, 2010 15:55:29 GMT -5
I'd try to save it. Might as well. Find a socket that fits tight, may have to try a standard socket to see if it's tighter. Take the cooling fan cover and fan of and use a spanner wrench to hold the flywheel or get one of THESE. You'll need either a big breaker bar or an impact wrench. Once the nut is off you can assess the damage better. |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 15, 2010 16:00:56 GMT -5
Even if the crankshaft is done, you can get one for $50+ shipping and then buy gaskets and seals, that does require removing the engine and nearly a complete disassembly, but it's not as hard as you may think.
Since 2strokd is in your town, you might wanna talk to him before you go any farther. IIRC he has a 4T scoot just sitting around that doesn't run but may be good for parts. I believe he still works on scoots as well and from what I've seen him post he does good work.
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Post by Fox on May 15, 2010 16:09:24 GMT -5
Oh sure! F- the guy in L.A.!  Yeah you can save it but I'm not sure stoop is up to the task. Just pay 2strokd to fix it. |
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stoop
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 119
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Post by stoop on May 15, 2010 16:37:16 GMT -5
2stroked left an add on craigslist with his number and he hasn't answered yet this week. I'm waitig on a reply from him.
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 15, 2010 16:43:36 GMT -5
Yeah, he needs 2strokd's help. Whoever works on it will probably have to remove the rear pulley and belt and use vice grip long jaw (welding clamps) and hardwood pieces to put outward pressure on the pulley to remove the nut. After that some shank diameter reduction and rethreading most likely. Tightening after that will have to be done carefully each time.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 15, 2010 16:55:23 GMT -5
Oh sure! F- the guy in L.A.! Oh that's right... I forgot Fox drives to people's homes and fixes things on the spot. :cager: :jaw: |
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Post by Goosey on May 15, 2010 17:39:18 GMT -5
Replacing the whole engine isn't as hard as you'd think.
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