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Post by Goosey on May 26, 2010 18:10:11 GMT -5
www.shop.kidnmekarts.com/Complete-CVT-upgrade-Kit-GY6-150cc-Build-UR-own-CVT-Kit-150cc.htm Well, the boss got sick, and I feel real bad for her, but on the other hand, I am working lots of extra hours this next couple weeks. So I was thinking one part at a time, or the whole kit. I don't see a lot of 150cc performance info, so shall I be a guinea pig here and let you know? or has someone tried and been dissapointed/pleased with just a CVT makeover. I would be happy with a 5mph top end increase. Anything more would be a bonus. ( I have both scooters going now, thought I'd mess with that ;D ) thatoneguy never got back on if he tried these parts, how they worked out. The variator is interesting, it's meant for 2 size rollers. I have a spare CVT cover if I need to make mods there, and the kevlar belt included is my size. For the short case 150cc.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 26, 2010 20:28:22 GMT -5
I've never really got to mess with trans tuning on a 150, so no words from experience here. I can tell you that top speed is the hardest to gain. Acceleration is pretty easy to improve. You might be able to get some gains just by swapping roller weights and looking for areas that could be improved upon. Aftermarket parts are always fun though.
KidNMe gets good reviews and they look like they stand behind their stuff, so if you can deal with the price I think they would be a good choice.
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Post by Goosey on May 26, 2010 21:14:54 GMT -5
I think I will see where my check ends up, and plan to get the clutch pully at least, with my 12g Dr. Pulleys,already running a kevlar belt, see what happens. The other parts are geared to acceleration..they claim some top end improvement on the clutch pully. I'd like to see how it would all go though as a set :riding: I'm more comfortable swapping parts than modifying so I think the CVT is a good place to start for me.
I did put in a performance coil and CDI in both scooters. That added a certain smoothness to the feel of the ride I thought.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 26, 2010 22:34:58 GMT -5
Looks like they made the rear pulley open farther to allow more belt travel and probably changed the angle of the guides. Should work for a couple MPH anyway. Since top speed is the goal and the original kit you linked to was $350, you could try another way...
Rear pulley : $130
UNI Filter : $20
Jets (you'll want a few) : $20
Exhaust : $150 (maybe cheaper if you spend time on eBay)
A9 Cam : $50
Total : $370
My thoughts with those mods are that you could try to increase revs as well as changing the potential of the CVT. Even if it didn't rev much higher, it might produce enough power at higher revs to make cruising faster easier.Then again, you could just get a big bore kit if you were looking for more reliable cruising speeds.
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Post by Goosey on May 27, 2010 6:52:58 GMT -5
The uni filter has to fit in an odd spot, I'll need to have measurements on those. I realize rejetting goes with that. I have the exhaust, have to get the pipe to a muffler guy to adjust slightly..and make the braket..
A9 Cam? can you point me to that? Not familiar. Off to work, long day.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 27, 2010 7:27:52 GMT -5
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Post by Goosey on May 27, 2010 21:02:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the direction. The A9 Cam looks do-able. As in I'm not too scared to try it :scared: Will the different cam timing affect the need to change jets at all? I would like to try one ad on at a time to see what the differences are.
Sliders (have them)
Clutch Pully, $130
A9 Cam, $50
Then work with the air flow and jets $20 with the air filter $10 and exhaust (have). I think this could be cheapest, but tricky adjustment.
? The Baron's engine has less than 100 miles on it. I was just thinking it would be a better idea to do top end changes on the Roadrunner, that is broken in.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 27, 2010 21:43:35 GMT -5
I know some folks would disagree, but I'd be just as comfortable modding the one with 100 miles as I would one with 1,000 miles. When I built the SunL with an 80cc, it had a bigger cam, bigger head with port work, exhaust, bigger carb, UNI, etc... and it was new from the crank up. Ran pretty well once i had it straight and I am not easy on scoots. The problems it has now are because I keep messing with it and experimenting, not because of a hard break in with performance parts. Whatever you are comfortable with. Either way, you should have one faster scoot to play with.
The cam will probably work without a jet change, but anytime you swap anything in the engine I think it's a good idea to check your tune.
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Post by Goosey on May 27, 2010 22:07:57 GMT -5
Truth be told, I used the "ride it like you stole it" method of break in on the Roadrunner. I Think I will use the Baron for my work commute, don't need to go over 45 to work, and play with the Roadrunner first.
That racing CDI, and the orange coil are what I put in. Like I said, it seemed to feel smoother.
If I understand it, the performance cam should allow air for a slightly longer time at higher speeds, to allow the fuel to continue to move better? Not more air, just the timeing is different, shouldn't effect the jetting. Seems to make sense. It should be a good combination with the clutch pully. I will let ya'all know what happens down the road.
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 27, 2010 22:08:44 GMT -5
I wonder why no one makes an adjustable cam sprocket? Or maybe someone does? I think you ought to make one of those scoots your town scoot with quick acceleration up to 50-55 and the other one your cruisin scoot with a top of at least 65 for road trips.
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Post by Goosey on May 27, 2010 22:21:41 GMT -5
That is kinda where I'm going right now. I want one dependable town scoot, and be able to visit friends down the highway 40 miles without holding up traffic. ( it would be nice if they are both dependable come to think of it :doh: )
The Baron at under 100 miles gets to 53 WOT, may get better once she's broken in. I'm pretty sure I had about 56mph on the Roadrunner last summer, running stock everything. Have been too busy getting the gremlins out, and building them a new home to see what she does yet. Darn tree.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 27, 2010 23:07:12 GMT -5
If I understand it, the performance cam should allow air for a slightly longer time at higher speeds, to allow the fuel to continue to move better? Not more air, just the timeing is different, shouldn't effect the jetting. Seems to make sense. It should be a good combination with the clutch pully. I will let ya'all know what happens down the road. I really don't know the specs of stock or the A9 cam. Cams can be ground with different event timings (when your valves open), duration (how long the valves are open, lift (how far the vavles open), and ramp angles (how fast the vavles open/close). |
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Post by Goosey on May 28, 2010 9:27:31 GMT -5
I am finding from 27.18intake-27.08exhaust ( low end power?)
to 25.8intake-25.7exhaust (top end ?) I have no idea what stock is yet, but I am still looking.
So the lower is better for top end? I found an A9 with 26.94 intake-26.77 exhaust, the description said it was good for low end. Makes things confusing.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 28, 2010 11:49:42 GMT -5
I was at the understanding that all A9 cams were the same profile, but it seems like things just can't be that easy when Chinese scooters and their parts get involved. Here's a graph of a few GY6 cams. Vertical bar shows lift, horizontal shows duration. Intake is the left, exhaust is the right. www.scooterchinois.fr/uploads/newbb/2293_4925d6ea6858f.jpgAnother note here, since they all increase lift it's a good idea to check piston to valve clearance to be sure you're safe. It's no fun hearing a tap when you start your engine and later finding out that the noise was the piston hitting the valve and bending it. |
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 28, 2010 16:43:57 GMT -5
That is a curious diagram. Shouldn't the exhaust actuation come before that of the intake?
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