Chinese Tach And Speedometer Installs Info And Reviews

[ryan]

i thought id give it a shot to see if it would be a worthy mod, cheap and looks nice.

www.ebay.com/itm/370882662493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

it does have installation instructions but im really confused so if someone knows (EXACTLY) what they are talking about and can help me install this dang thing it would be awesome.

[oldsman]

That looks cool. Add some LEDs for the lights and BAM hot rod scooter.
What I dont like
DC 12V: Red and Blue Wires for Night Light- should be red and black or green
Black line lock positive electrode- If to battery should be red if not wtf?
Green line lock negative electrode- i'm ok with this one
Yellow line contacts signal i'm ok with this one.
Some models need to attach high voltage signal line

They should of had a better color for the wiring and state if it will work for DC and AC firing.

[90GTVert]

I agree the wire colors are odd.

Black/Yellow will go to the + side of coil. Just tap it into that wire, usually black/white or black/yellow on the scoot.

Black needs ign switched positive. A lot of times a red/white wire on a scoot, but just look for a + wire that has power with the key on and none with it off.

Green and I'll assume blue go to ground.

Orange prob goes to + power source that comes on with your lights. If you don't have a light switch on the scoot, so the lights are always on, just tie it in with the black wire so it gets power when the key is on. Easiest place to find a light switch controlled power wire to tap into will prob be in the old gauge cluster harness. May be an orange wire or orange/white, maybe not. Use a meter and look fro power off with light switch off and on with light switch on.

Nearest I can tell it should work with 1 pulse per revolution. Typical of 2T and wasted spark 4Ts, like the GY6 50-150s tend to be.

[ryan]

got it all hooked up except the lighting which i can get that figured out. the tach actually reads within 100 rpm of my kobalt timing light its just a tad slow by about 1/4 sec. i tell you it wasnt difficult doing it but it was the wiring and getting it to certin parts of the frame.

since i am running the malossi OR kit along with max rpm 1.5 which is a high revver with that combo and 9.5g weights i was seeing my clutch grab at about 5500, and didnt catch hard until about 7k. when i take off it basically stays in the 7500-10.5k area from take off to about 65.

rpm at 55mph; 8-9k
speed with slight tuck on straight; 75-77mph at 11k
speed with full tuck as aerodynamic as possible; 78-79mph at 11.2k-11.5k

all in all the tach was a good choice for 25 dollars shipped and the speedo for 25, i didnt like that it was in klm but after a good speedo puck lube and confirmation with gps its accurate!

[90GTVert]

Jun 15, 2015 8:06:07 GMT -5 humanshield said:

So I bought this tachometer from China....



This is the wiring instructions they provided.....



Concerning the wires with Bullet Connectors I assume they are saying....
GREEN to Negative 12v
BLACK to Positive 12v
YELLOW to Coil

Jun 15, 2015 22:50:48 GMT -5 humanshield said:

Installed my Tachometer tonight.  Took about 3 hours cause I'm picky.

Came chrome...needed black.   500 grit sand papered it until it was scuffed up good.   Then sprayed it with self etching primer.
Finally painted it gloss black.   Came out nice.  The black is as shiny as the chrome was....Chinese chrome anyways.

Mounting was easy.  Came with a "U" shaped mounting bracket that fit perfectly under the mirror and tightened down great with the mirror bolt.  No messy plastic whacking hack job.  Was able to bend the mounting bracket down so that the viewing angle perfectly matches the existing gauges and dash.   That was nice. 

Pretty much took ALL the plastics off the scoot (except the rear two side panels).  I wanted to route all the wiring along the existing harness real neatly and wrap it with electrical tape.  All connections soldered and used quality Japanese bullet connectors with neoprene clear shields.   Looks professional.  I like clean installs.

Needle is very steady.  No bounce a tall.  "Seems" like good quality...if it lasts.  You know me...I'll make it known if it doesn't last.  Reads up to 13,000 rpm but for some reason the digits only illuminate up to 8,000 rpm.  Fine by me.  This motors not revving that high anyway.

Overall very pleased with it so far.  I like the LED illumination.  Looks nice at night.  Very securely mounted.  No vibration....very easy to see.   Now I need to add a cylinder head temp gauge.

[wutno]

g

[90GTVert]

Dec 6, 2015 1:50:29 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Time to install the new dash!
Ground down a pop rivet to make a depinning tool and depined a factory gauge plug/think I actually pinched the plug from the Sepia ZZ ignition switch.

I love these crimping pliers!


Ran a RPM wire to the coil, hooked up the indicators and high beam etc and then...



All seems to be working well!    Think I'm going to wire the low oil switch up to the water temp light.

Started mocking up the mount, going to make a panel to tidy it all up!

*it's missing most of the screws at this point lol

Feb 5, 2016 8:04:07 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Yeah it actually came with a fairly decent 4 page instruction leaflet, it's at my workshop so I can't post pics at the moment (it's 1:50am here), but I'll try to remember later on!

This is the seller I brought mine from, was the cheapest on Aliexpress at the time and the seller has great feedback.
s.aliexpress.com/7n2uyUrY
Kinda wish I'd gone for the black dial now!

I left the Suzuki loom standard, I had some plugs sitting around from the Sepia I parted so I depinned them and added them to the loom that came with the gauge so it just plugs in.
I actually removed the plugs that came on the gauges patch loom and after removing excess wires recovered the loom in braided conduit to tidy it up.

I removed all the wires for the gear indicators, water temp light, check engine light etc, but now I wish I'd thought to use the check engine light as my 2t oil warning!

Had to add a wire for the tach signal, according to the manual it can be taken from the pick up or from the coil, I couldn't get it to work properly from the pick up so added a wire to the coil output on the CDI plug.

Oh and I just tapped into the high beam switch and indicator power wires for the warning lights.
Fuel gauge works mint, even the low fuel warning light (which gets brighter the lower the fuel level)


You measure the rolling diameter of your front tyre and enter it into the gauge, the better you measure the more accurate the speedo ends up.
I need to remeasure mine, just thinking about it I did do a GPS comparison when I first fitted the gauge and it was within 3k, so I've just realized that the 80k in my video would be closer to 77k

Also fit as many magnets as you can fit on your disk for the pick up!!
Or at least 3 magnets anyway, I started with 1 and it's just not enough to give a decent stable speed reading!
Oh and the magnets I posted that I've used on mine with the alloy body and E-clips are not what come with it, it can't with plain little round neodymium magnets, I think they intended you to put them in the hex of the disk bolts, but they were too big for my bolts so I used the clip in magnets that came with the round gauge I got originally, that didn't work but at least gave me clip on magnets haha.

Feb 5, 2016 8:33:53 GMT -5 Raizer said:

One thing it's got going for it over the genuine Koso is it's got a 15,000rpm tacho.
Koso ones come in 10,000rpm or 20,000rpm, IMO 10,000rpm isn't enough and the 20,000rpm ends up with only around half of the tachometer face in use on a street scooter.

[90GTVert]

May 17, 2017 12:40:43 GMT -5 diynuke said:

the mount is made with some Stainless steel (A4 grade) piping
and a big stainless steel washer (really really big xD).
Was tough to drill of course but it does look nice i guess 
now i have to weld the washer to the pipe and then do some wiring and then its done and should work great