That looks cool. Add some LEDs for the lights and BAM hot rod scooter. What I dont like DC 12V: Red and Blue Wires for Night Light- should be red and black or green Black line lock positive electrode- If to battery should be red if not wtf? Green line lock negative electrode- i'm ok with this one Yellow line contacts signal i'm ok with this one. Some models need to attach high voltage signal line
They should of had a better color for the wiring and state if it will work for DC and AC firing.
Black/Yellow will go to the + side of coil. Just tap it into that wire, usually black/white or black/yellow on the scoot.
Black needs ign switched positive. A lot of times a red/white wire on a scoot, but just look for a + wire that has power with the key on and none with it off.
Green and I'll assume blue go to ground.
Orange prob goes to + power source that comes on with your lights. If you don't have a light switch on the scoot, so the lights are always on, just tie it in with the black wire so it gets power when the key is on. Easiest place to find a light switch controlled power wire to tap into will prob be in the old gauge cluster harness. May be an orange wire or orange/white, maybe not. Use a meter and look fro power off with light switch off and on with light switch on.
Nearest I can tell it should work with 1 pulse per revolution. Typical of 2T and wasted spark 4Ts, like the GY6 50-150s tend to be.
Last Edit: Oct 12, 2013 5:44:17 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
got it all hooked up except the lighting which i can get that figured out. the tach actually reads within 100 rpm of my kobalt timing light its just a tad slow by about 1/4 sec. i tell you it wasnt difficult doing it but it was the wiring and getting it to certin parts of the frame.
since i am running the malossi OR kit along with max rpm 1.5 which is a high revver with that combo and 9.5g weights i was seeing my clutch grab at about 5500, and didnt catch hard until about 7k. when i take off it basically stays in the 7500-10.5k area from take off to about 65.
rpm at 55mph; 8-9k speed with slight tuck on straight; 75-77mph at 11k speed with full tuck as aerodynamic as possible; 78-79mph at 11.2k-11.5k
all in all the tach was a good choice for 25 dollars shipped and the speedo for 25, i didnt like that it was in klm but after a good speedo puck lube and confirmation with gps its accurate!
Last Edit: Jun 16, 2015 6:46:26 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
Installed my Tachometer tonight. Took about 3 hours cause I'm picky.
Came chrome...needed black. 500 grit sand papered it until it was scuffed up good. Then sprayed it with self etching primer. Finally painted it gloss black. Came out nice. The black is as shiny as the chrome was....Chinese chrome anyways.
Mounting was easy. Came with a "U" shaped mounting bracket that fit perfectly under the mirror and tightened down great with the mirror bolt. No messy plastic whacking hack job. Was able to bend the mounting bracket down so that the viewing angle perfectly matches the existing gauges and dash. That was nice.
Pretty much took ALL the plastics off the scoot (except the rear two side panels). I wanted to route all the wiring along the existing harness real neatly and wrap it with electrical tape. All connections soldered and used quality Japanese bullet connectors with neoprene clear shields. Looks professional. I like clean installs.
Needle is very steady. No bounce a tall. "Seems" like good quality...if it lasts. You know me...I'll make it known if it doesn't last. Reads up to 13,000 rpm but for some reason the digits only illuminate up to 8,000 rpm. Fine by me. This motors not revving that high anyway.
Overall very pleased with it so far. I like the LED illumination. Looks nice at night. Very securely mounted. No vibration....very easy to see. Now I need to add a cylinder head temp gauge.
Last Edit: Nov 20, 2017 5:30:05 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
I needed to figure out how I wanted to mount it, the front of my scoot has a plastic shroud that covers my handle bars, something I did have was an empty post where the right mirror is supposed to mount, now it comes with a metal piece I ended up bending it until I could get it to sit where I could have it be mounted and actually view the tacho.
After that I decided I really didn't like the chrome finish so I scuffed it up a bunch and sprayed it with the manifold paint I had left over after redoing my exhaust pipe. Came out pretty good in my opinion.
Next came actually testing it and wiring it.. As Brent did with his koso tach I wired it directly to the ignition coil, and then utilized the ground that was already on the head.
And... She worked!
Now to finish the wiring for the backlight/etc, I ended up running the ground and signal cables along the wiring harness that was there and ran them up to the headlights, this is where it got a little tricky, I attempted to use the 12+V ignition locked at the spot where it actually comes from the key but it would kill the engine and then wouldn't let it start. So I figured "What else is 12V on this thing? OH everything" I ended up running both the power connectors for the tach to the positive end of the headlight (at the connector itself not AT the headlight), and used the negative terminal from the connector behind the key switch. (white is actually "short black" and "long red")
And... here's the finished product
I had some M10 nuts and bolts laying around from another project so I used those to actually mount it to the post, perfect fit, she doesn't go anywhere.
Last Edit: Nov 20, 2017 5:36:16 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
Yeah it actually came with a fairly decent 4 page instruction leaflet, it's at my workshop so I can't post pics at the moment (it's 1:50am here), but I'll try to remember later on!
This is the seller I brought mine from, was the cheapest on Aliexpress at the time and the seller has great feedback. s.aliexpress.com/7n2uyUrY Kinda wish I'd gone for the black dial now!
I left the Suzuki loom standard, I had some plugs sitting around from the Sepia I parted so I depinned them and added them to the loom that came with the gauge so it just plugs in. I actually removed the plugs that came on the gauges patch loom and after removing excess wires recovered the loom in braided conduit to tidy it up.
I removed all the wires for the gear indicators, water temp light, check engine light etc, but now I wish I'd thought to use the check engine light as my 2t oil warning!
Had to add a wire for the tach signal, according to the manual it can be taken from the pick up or from the coil, I couldn't get it to work properly from the pick up so added a wire to the coil output on the CDI plug.
Oh and I just tapped into the high beam switch and indicator power wires for the warning lights. Fuel gauge works mint, even the low fuel warning light (which gets brighter the lower the fuel level)
You measure the rolling diameter of your front tyre and enter it into the gauge, the better you measure the more accurate the speedo ends up. I need to remeasure mine, just thinking about it I did do a GPS comparison when I first fitted the gauge and it was within 3k, so I've just realized that the 80k in my video would be closer to 77k
Also fit as many magnets as you can fit on your disk for the pick up!! Or at least 3 magnets anyway, I started with 1 and it's just not enough to give a decent stable speed reading! Oh and the magnets I posted that I've used on mine with the alloy body and E-clips are not what come with it, it can't with plain little round neodymium magnets, I think they intended you to put them in the hex of the disk bolts, but they were too big for my bolts so I used the clip in magnets that came with the round gauge I got originally, that didn't work but at least gave me clip on magnets haha.
One thing it's got going for it over the genuine Koso is it's got a 15,000rpm tacho. Koso ones come in 10,000rpm or 20,000rpm, IMO 10,000rpm isn't enough and the 20,000rpm ends up with only around half of the tachometer face in use on a street scooter.
Last Edit: Nov 20, 2017 5:40:01 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
the mount is made with some Stainless steel (A4 grade) piping and a big stainless steel washer (really really big xD). Was tough to drill of course but it does look nice i guess now i have to weld the washer to the pipe and then do some wiring and then its done and should work great
Last Edit: Nov 20, 2017 5:43:20 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
Brent Smoking section, please.
Senna1Rossi: Ah, gotcha! Thanks, Fox. Does everyone see the Shoutbox, or just the people who you choose?
Feb 16, 2016 12:39:35 GMT -5
Fox: Anyone who is logged in can see it but it's down at the bottom so most have either chosen to ignore it or haven't discovered it yet.
Feb 16, 2016 18:42:39 GMT -5
Deleted: Wow, I just found this. I feel smart now, ha ha.
Feb 27, 2016 19:24:24 GMT -5
Silar: Ahh.. New feature for a new riding season! YAY!
Mar 16, 2016 17:12:34 GMT -5
Silar: Apparently this still is not being used much. hmm..
Mar 17, 2016 13:55:04 GMT -5
180°off: Anyone want to buy a Yamaha 2t that needs a complete rebuild?
Mar 27, 2016 16:00:19 GMT -5
larryhobman: What is the leanest jet size you would try on a 47mm setup, 60cc stock head with a A9 cam
Apr 2, 2016 20:17:30 GMT -5
Senna1Rossi: Thanks renagade281!
May 23, 2016 14:59:12 GMT -5
Fox: I don't really know how to say this but straight. I am Dave's Girlfriend Kellilee and bluntly and VERY SADLY he passed away early Tuesday morning. I know he would want ya all to know this. Thank You Brent for befriending my love he was very happy on here!
Jun 18, 2016 16:26:04 GMT -5
Fox: www.gofundme.com/29mgf6b8 I hope it is ok to pass on his gofundme page link. If not you will un-post it I'm sure. Thanks again all!!
Jun 18, 2016 16:31:18 GMT -5