|
Post by ruckhero on Oct 31, 2013 6:57:39 GMT -5
Dan, you may or may not know but "You don't choose 2t, 2t chooses you". And I will never put a chinese GY6 on my ruckus. I will however tell you that I've ridden with 232cc GY6's and those things are ridiculous. Wheelie machines... and our bikes are 6+ feet long... Whoa! They have to fill up their gas tank every 20miles or so... Definitely a thrill, but not my cup of tea. Majority of people in the ruck community run Gy6's, but I'm going to stick with the inconvenience of premix and the smell of smoke! LOL! I LOVE IT!
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Oct 31, 2013 8:05:42 GMT -5
Very nice! My kinda Ruk!
|
|
|
Post by ruckhero on Oct 31, 2013 8:45:26 GMT -5
Strokd! I appreciate that. I was watching some of those drag vids of you and your son. Awesome stuff. Now THATS my kind of ruck! Lol! I need your knowledge man. Your experience! Your improvisation so this next iteration of my bike is even more beastly! :thumbsup:
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Oct 31, 2013 10:48:11 GMT -5
Thank you. I love racing, and really like a nice street scoot thats quick. My guy for major fab help and all around race builds is another member,190mech. The man is nonstop and has bucket loads of experience and knowledge. A real worker! Inspiring...
It looks like you are on the right path already, but if ican help in any way ide love to! I like idea of a good name kit but with my budget i would most likely be steering towards an iron LC kit with a cheaper name 43-45mm crank. Decent power, long life, great off idle torque, not real expensive... On the other hand, more peak HP is available right out of the box with the bigger names. Its a good feeling to take the no name cheaper stuff and run right with the big money builds though.
|
|
|
Post by teddy554 on Oct 31, 2013 11:26:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ruckhero on Nov 11, 2013 16:21:30 GMT -5
I'm thinking about doing this (and need your thoughts): Mishimoto LEFT CORE yz250 Radiator (no fill cap) 3inlets/outlets: Turning this rad horizontal to fit between my legs under the cross bar of the rear frame (remember this is a ruckus and there's plenty of air flowing through this area) and attaching a overflow bottle to the single "inlet". The overflow bottle will have the filler neck, and it will sit under my seat (higher than the rad). The two parallel inlet/outlets on the rad will go down and back to the water pump/cylinder. Does anyone see anything wrong with this? The reason this rad doesn't have a filler cap is because it is supposed to be used with a second radiator that connects side by side to this rad on a yz250. Any input would be great. I am a noob at Liquid Cooled setups, and radiators in general... Dimensions/Specs: LEFT CORE SIZE 9.37" x 4.65" ROWS 2 INLET .51" OUTLET .75", .51" CORE THICKNESS 1.57" TANK WALL THICKNESS .08" FILL NECK None Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by ryan on Nov 11, 2013 17:28:37 GMT -5
i have a good rad here if you need one for your build it has the cap etc not bent good cond id sell for 20$ i think your heading in the right direction in your build!! sounds cool
|
|
|
Post by kevin55950 on Nov 11, 2013 22:34:45 GMT -5
I found last model YZ125 radiator (I think left one has cap) which look to be easily adaptable to our scooters. Mounts and hose connections are made nicely so you can fit it in tight space.
|
|
|
Post by kevin55950 on Nov 11, 2013 22:41:27 GMT -5
Or look at my Ex500 radiator in my build, it needs to be cleaned but it will fit your scooter pretty well I think, I'll take measurements tomorrow.
|
|
|
Post by ruckhero on Nov 11, 2013 23:25:53 GMT -5
I found last model YZ125 radiator (I think left one has cap) which look to be easily adaptable to our scooters. Mounts and hose connections are made nicely so you can fit it in tight space. kevin thanks for the recommendation. the yz125 radiator is not any help though. the cap is on the vertical end of the radiator just like on the 250 and the 85. I need to be on the horizontal side of the radiator. I've seen some other radiators out there, but this particular one has the PERFECT dimensions. The kx500 is too big from what I can tell. I just need to confirm that turning the this radiator sideways will not be an issue, and if anyone here has ever had issues with an inline filller cap/neck or overflow tank with cap mounted above the radiator. thanks fellas/ladies!
|
|
|
Post by ryan on Nov 11, 2013 23:28:54 GMT -5
have you tried a drr apex kasea etc radiator?
|
|
|
Post by ruckhero on Nov 12, 2013 0:12:22 GMT -5
have you tried a drr apex kasea etc radiator? no i haven't. thanks for the tip ryan. looks promising!
|
|
|
Post by kevin55950 on Nov 12, 2013 7:24:15 GMT -5
Maybe finding a car heater core for cheap and get a cap welded on it where you need it? Generally they are pretty thick so welding a cap is not a problem, they come in various shapes and car junkyard is a good place to find them.
|
|
|
Post by nelson on Nov 14, 2013 21:04:11 GMT -5
Nice ride man. U must live close by. I recognize that first pic at texas motorspeedwY
|
|
|
Post by ruckhero on Nov 22, 2013 21:17:33 GMT -5
IGNITION / WATER PUMP QUESTION: I've been told my stock zuma flywheel/ignition setup with extended studs will work just fine on my 08 zuma case with a mechanical pump and for my street setup. I realize the stock flywheel is on the heavy side and I've heard about the stock cdi possibly not being able to handle higher revs with reliable spark. True?? I'm not interested in launching like a rocket out of the gate, but rather higher speeds and faster midrange acceleration. On the other hand... I've been told that I need to get a new ignition/flywheel setup: more specifically this one (I want to keep my lights): www.spmotostore.com/Inner_rotor_ignition_MVT_Premium_incl_lighting_p/mvt-prem06.htmand that I should run an electric water pump because when you extend the studs for our zuma cases so it reaches the mech water pump that the studs tend to snap, and will probably snap because of the torque on the 77cc kit... What's your opinion/personal experience?? Thanks all!
|
|