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Post by dan50 on Aug 27, 2016 0:13:01 GMT -5
Thanks Bob, nice finds! But I also need the part that bolts to the bottom of the tank.
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 27, 2016 3:17:34 GMT -5
See, that last one ain't that plastic crap.
Make sure you have plenty of fuel flow. Use a 2" brass ball valve.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 27, 2016 7:23:46 GMT -5
Thanks Bob, nice finds! But I also need the part that bolts to the bottom of the tank. Measure the threads on the tank and then try searching for the thread size and fuel shutoff or something along those lines. I think I paid about $10 for the one that fits my 150's tank and it has an ON/OFF/RESERVE switch incorporated.
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 28, 2016 3:30:54 GMT -5
See, I don't know jack about various scoots. I just know auto, machine, electrical, and materials tech. I don't even know what a scoot top fuel tank setup looks like. The last one I saw was on a Cushman and frankly don't remember what it looked like after 50 years. I don't know whether a scoot has male/female threads, a barb like my tank, or just a hole and a gasketed fitting like a metal valve stem for a tubeless tire rim.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 28, 2016 7:57:20 GMT -5
I don't know whether a scoot has male/female threads, a barb like my tank, or just a hole and a gasketed fitting like a metal valve stem for a tubeless tire rim. Usually it's either a barb or a male threaded fitting, from what I've seen, but there are other setups. I've seen bolt on with a gasket, but I haven't had any scoots with them or seen that used on these in person. I wish they all had the barb so it's very simple to use whatever component's you'd like, or at least one standard fitting size would be nice. Some have the petcock screw onto the tank, some have it inline.
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Moat
Scoot Member
Posts: 88
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Post by Moat on Aug 28, 2016 11:20:57 GMT -5
Looks like there's plenty of 'em out there, like here, here, here or on Ebay... although I'd guess might be a bit of a hassle finding an exact fit, and - is there room under there to fit your hand when turning on/off...? Another option could be to use standard, locally-available fittings to eliminate the tank-mounted petcock altogether and convert to an easier-to-access inline setup - kinda' like this guy did. Bob
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 28, 2016 17:06:06 GMT -5
It is amazing what parts can be found at a hardware store.
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Post by dan50 on Aug 30, 2016 2:03:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the help.
Sunday I was riding, running good then quit, It would start after some cranking, then stall after 10 to 15 seconds. I had to call my Dad to bring the trailer to pick me up. Just wouldn't stay running.
Right now, I have the scoot stripped down, I removed the gas tank & emptied it, gas looked alright (no water), Blew the tank out with air, Bought new fuel line & filter. Took carb apart to check the needle valve, it's adjusted right, opens and fully closes.
After I do the fuel system, I am going to install another new spark plug (just replaced plug a couple weeks ago, maybe got a bad one). I'm going to check for spark. My problem might be electrical.
I'm also going to adjust the valves while I have the body all off.
I hope this will get me running again.
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 30, 2016 4:44:55 GMT -5
When it dies check the basics; spark, fuel, air, and compression.
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Post by dan50 on Aug 31, 2016 3:04:43 GMT -5
Yeah Mech, I'm changing the fuel system, new fuel line, filter and checked the carb. I removed the gas tank and emptied it (just in-case there was bad gas). There was some junk on the internal filter, not enough to prevent fuel flow, but i cleaned the tank out anyway (with a little gas, not water) and blew it dry.
I'm also going to adjust valves, change the spark plug (again, I just put one in 2 weeks ago), and check for spark. I'm beginning to think the problem is electrical, the fuel system was working, although I am going to gravity fuel petcock.
I hope to get running tomorrow (Aug 31st).
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 31, 2016 3:37:09 GMT -5
Shotgunning parts won't do you much good except by accident. When it is not running check and see which one of the basics are gone.
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Post by dan50 on Sept 1, 2016 21:27:15 GMT -5
I was checking each part as I was removing it. The lines weren't plugged, fuel ran through the filter real well, so it had to be the vacuum fuel petcock. I did an unscientific test, I left the vacuum line hooked up, sucked on it, fuel would flow for a few seconds, then stop (even with pressure on the vacuum line). There was my culprit.
I went to Thumb Powersports near me and the store had a 16mm thread manual petcock for my tank (I took the tank in, blown out and dry), the manual petcock fit. $16.95 for the manual petcock (online they were the same price + shipping), The guy also made me a plug for the vacuum outlet on the intake manifold so I'm not sucking air.
I put the fuel system back together with new fuel line and a new filter. I can't get to the manual petcock when it's mounted (frame & body are in the way, so I left it on in the reserve position). I installed an inline shutoff for the fuel that is positioned just above the airbox where I can easily get to it.
Installed a new plug (just because), and the scoot fired right up. I took it for a long ride, 15 miles, in 20mph wind. I had it WOT at all times and no fuel starvation issue.
Fixed for now!
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Moat
Scoot Member
Posts: 88
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Post by Moat on Sept 2, 2016 14:42:11 GMT -5
Excellent! Never have to worry about that danged thing again... wondering if some occasional "burp" or "softness" might be caused by a faulty petcock or not - let alone the possibility of leaving ya' stranded. Peace of mind. Hmmm... guess I better do mine now... Bob
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Post by dan50 on Sept 2, 2016 18:15:40 GMT -5
That vacuum fuel petcock did leave me stranded. My Dad had to come with the trailer so I could get me & the scoot home.
From now on, I will install a manual fuel petcock to do away with that headache.
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Post by dan50 on Sept 6, 2016 22:56:56 GMT -5
I have a question. I had installed a 1k (blue) contra spring in the clutch assembly. 5 gram rollers. 1k (blue) clutch springs.
With a new Bando 669x18x30 belt, the contra was burning the belt. I could smell it after a ride. The belt in less than a week was worn to 17.4mm wide with belt dust all over the CVT.
Why did the contra melt my belt?
I have since put a new stock contra spring in with the 5 gram rollers and a new Bando 669x18x30 belt.
Also, the Bando 669 belt isn't long enough. The old belt I had that broke was 669x18x30. Do Bando belts run a little short?
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