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Post by FrankenMech on May 25, 2015 15:23:45 GMT -5
Good news about that brake assy.
I have downloaded lots of engine pics to compare also.
Used scooters, new scooters, motorcycles, mobility scooters, and parts for mobility scooters, and motorcycles seems to be about all I have found on craigslist or the thrifty nickel. A junker running or not would probably be my best option then grab a new long case engine assy. There may be a few towards the end of summer.
That rear shaft, wheel, shocks, and brake seem to be the sticking points.
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Post by 190mech on May 25, 2015 16:35:53 GMT -5
Keep huntin' Dude!You'll find that junker,,having a whole scoot will save tons compared to buying in pieces..
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Post by FrankenMech on May 25, 2015 17:51:02 GMT -5
I may be able to contact the importer and see if they have a rear assy. Front parts and plastics are scarce due to 'accidents'.
My scoot is WAY different from 'normal' scoots. Nobody seems to have long case engines for rear disc brake setups. Many suppliers say something like; "We do not have engine assemblies for rear disk brake setups." Some add "at this time" to that statement. -I keep looking. That 'rear disk brake' seems to be the key to the long output shaft, right side swingarm, etc. If anyone spots one let me know please.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jun 5, 2015 19:35:19 GMT -5
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Post by niz76 on Jun 5, 2015 22:56:27 GMT -5
FrankenMech, I just went and looked, and the Znen ZN150T-10 (aka Lance Milan) scoot that I have seems to have the brake setup you're looking for. It has a swingarm with the caliper and disk mounted on the outer side of the tire- on the "passenger side". 
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Post by niz76 on Jun 5, 2015 23:02:45 GMT -5
Is this what you're looking for??  |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jun 6, 2015 8:42:52 GMT -5
That is exactly what I am looking for. Where did the muffler go?
Mine is very similar to that except for a speedo pickup mounted outboard of the swing arm.
What I need to know is if the 50cc long shaft 12x3.5" wheel I have will fit on the 150cc long shaft. If the splines and diameters are the same. Wheels set up for a right hand disk brake caliper seem to be few and far between. I am hoping wheels have a fairly standard spline size for the 50cc and 150cc GY6 engine family.
Other than that I have questions on the right side swingarm and whether it will interchange between a 50cc long case and a 150cc long case. My present 50cc long swingarm is set up for the brake caliper. The 'replacement' units I have seen at ScrappyDog don't seem to be set up for a caliper. It is not a horrible problem since I think I can fab a caliper mount. The engine bolt-up locations may be a problem.
When I tear down my scoot to do maintenance or modifications it is always a bad time for me because it is my only transportation. I like to do it as fast as possible and that isn't very fast since I shake so bad. A job that takes the rest of you 10-30 minutes will take me all day. I try to have all the parts and materials I may need ahead of time. It also helps a lot to know 'approximately' what I am facing.
It would also be helpful if I can go back to the 50cc engine if I run into an insurmountable problem. Speaking of insurmountable, the engine mount swap is very simple but seems to generate a lot of headaches for people on the web.
I also love to modify things which makes me a real scoot nerd. I have designed a complete new voltage regulator system for my scoot that I want to try out. Things like that can lead me into trouble... OOOOPPPSS -sizzle.... If you know what I mean. I don't like the little half wave black boxes available for 50cc and some 150cc scoots.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 7, 2015 22:26:17 GMT -5
BTW, If anyone is interested, the carb mods I detailed on previous pages have worked great. The bowl vent was directed to the carb intake in the final design. A slight adjustment of the external jet has been needed with higher temps outdoors. I also adjusted the idle jet a little mainly just to check it. The 'performance' carb and intake filter have been great together. The bowl vent has prevented any need to tune the carb to the filter. The carb functions with the filter on or off. Throttle response is very smooth from idle to full throttle.
The intake filter and cover has worked well as have the engine warm air tube and the crankcase vent tube directed to the filter cover. The warm air seemed to prevent carb icing problems during cool high humidity days.
I keep an eye on the color of the exhaust pipe. It has been a dark gray color, not black or light gray. It will change color a short time after any engine adjustment is made. I think the dark gray (very slightly rich) color is the result of leaving the external jet open a small amount to keep it operating. I think the carb would operate without the external jet but a slight turn one way or the other does improve operation due to temperature change.
I fabricated a carb and filter support bracket that is supported by the starter housing using a USA made hose clamp instead of the flimsy Chinese clamp that came with the filter.
I will be adding a tubing connector to the crankcase vent tube at a convenient spot. The present connection at the air cleaner is difficult to reach with my big hands. It will make air filter, and cover R&R easier.
I will be using the same carb and filter on my 125/150cc engine upgrade. I feel it will probably work well without any need for internal jet changes.
Also:
I noticed many scoots with right hand side rear disk brakes in a motorcycle shop I visited in St Louis. I think the improved braking ability of this design may become more of a standard on newer scoots.
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 14, 2018 10:56:47 GMT -5
Update: I have not done anything to my scoot for a long time. I have not been riding either. The frame is bent and 50cc CVT has been taken apart. The engine needs the valves adjusted (hard hot starts). A 50cc CVT system just will not take the abuse from a 3-wheel 300# scoot with 250# of rider and gear traveling up KC hills in my area. I shake too much to use tools and more shoulder injuries make my right arm useless. I hope that I may recover enough to install a larger engine someday.
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Post by milly on Oct 15, 2018 6:53:26 GMT -5
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 12, 2019 9:50:44 GMT -5
Hey Frank!
Just found this lengthy series of posts on the Dongfang...
Putting in a 72cc BBK will give you a good bit of grunt and increased hill climbing ability. Even going to the 44mm bore(63cc) will add a good bit of acceleration.
Putting in a 150cc would require you to get a new set of eyeballs to be able to weld in the support and mount bracketry.
In another post today, I asked if you were the same Frankenmech on another scooter site.. that had a Dongfang. Seeing this, I know you are.
The problem with the one I worked on was 'electrics' were all crappy. The PO left it out in the rain, apparently, as all switches were stiff and seemed corroded. I was working on it for a fellow to whom I sold a GMW as he had taken it in trade(he does deatailing at a dealership). It was not roadworthy with lack of a lot of lighting and no electric start, and a broken kick starter.
He wanted a BBK installed, and I hesitated as I thought it was a LOT lighter than other scooters as it has zero plastic(heavy) paneling. Can you give me thoughts as to safety of having more power? I don't want to unleash a machine that would kill or maim the operator, who should be ADULT to ride this machine, IMO. "Just because you can does not mean you should..." applies to the younger set, it seems, and this reverse trike seems to have a LOT of attitude for cornering, etc. I have NOT ridden it yet as the throttle cable is broken.
Have you found a good site for parts for this monster?
Any way, I got all the electrics to work, await the owner providing a new throttle cable, a new belt cover & bushing, belt(frayed). And then consider the 72cc upgrade along with a 20mm carb.
If you added/replaced with a 72cc piston, rings & cylinder, and got a Keihin actual 20mm or a clone from aliexpress(they work for ~$24, but you have to wait), the thing might surprise with how well it moves. I avoid kits with the stamped sheet metal cylinder head gaskets in favor of the thicker with fire ring. Adds a bit of volume to reduce compression a bit, and will likely seal to a somewhat muddled head gasket surface. I found the heads will get a bit of skew in the area alongside the cam chain area. I used abrasive on flat surface until flat, and I think I bumped compression even more, but boy it ran good. Have done 4 so far, I tbink with good results. I check the head on each, along with the valve seats and face, replacing the valve stem seals at the same time.
Later
tom
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Post by Mech Warrior on Jul 14, 2020 3:02:39 GMT -5
So frankenmech in july 2020 whats the update tell me something good.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 7, 2021 4:45:51 GMT -5
I thought this thread was dead. all through 2019 I have been in and out of the hospital getting cut on many times and recovering. gall bladder surgery Xmas 2019 was fouled up and I spent a week in ICU, almost didn't make it. Then the Covid hit and I have done nothing all 2020. Got the jab last week but more hospital and doctors. I have done nothing with the scoot.
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Post by captincvmn on Mar 7, 2021 10:54:43 GMT -5
I thought this thread was dead. all through 2019 I have been in and out of the hospital getting cut on many times and recovering. gall bladder surgery Xmas 2019 was fouled up and I spent a week in ICU, almost didn't make it. Then the Covid hit and I have done nothing all 2020. Got the jab last week but more hospital and doctors. I have done nothing with the scoot. I’ve been quite fortunate through the years. I’m sorry for your issues but I’m quite glad you’re still around. Safe travels FrankenMech |
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