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Post by redorchestra on Jul 4, 2010 18:47:17 GMT -5
Is there an order to tuning a variator drive train area?
I have 4.5 and 6.5 gram sliders, 1000, 1500 an 2000rpm contra springs 1000, 1500, and 2000rpm clutch springs.
I have heard not to change everything at once, but is there a proper order?
Should I start at low rpm clutch springs untill I find something I like, then start at low rpm contra springs, then find a slider weight that compliments that set up or ?
My engine is a stock 50cc morini SB50.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 4, 2010 19:04:37 GMT -5
I dunno if there is an outlined scientific method for CVT setup. I would start with the 2000RPM clutch springs. I've never messed with a Morini, but all of my piped and unpiped 2T minarellis have seemed to favor the 2000RPM clutch springs. Clutch springs are pretty simple to choose IMO. You should get a nice initial launch and not bypass part of your power band by revving too high before clutch engagement.
I've had good luck with lighter contra springs on mild motors, so I'd install a 1000RPM contra when you are doing the clutch springs. Also, since you are going with sliders either way, I would put in the 4.5g sliders. Not sure what those engines like, but that sounds like a ballpark setup for a minarelli 2T anyway.
If the engine is revving too high for your liking or it's not getting up to the speeds you expect, switch in the 6.5g sliders. If the engine is not revving high enough or taking off as fast as you think it should, try a stiffer contra. You should eventually be able to get a good balance of acceleration and speed. Mark your variator to see how far your belt is traveling.
Once you've made those initial changes, try to do 1 thing at a time.
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Post by redorchestra on Jul 5, 2010 0:39:20 GMT -5
Ah okay, so make all the non-stock changes you are planning all at once. Then one at a time change to see what works better or best. Thanks!
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Post by redorchestra on Jul 13, 2010 7:03:16 GMT -5
Well. The springs don't fit so I don't have to worry about the order. Instead I drilled some weight reduction holes in the clutch shoes. I used a 4.5mm bit but I think I'll redrill it with an 8mm when I open it up next time. I opened the TD to have a look and the pin track comes within a mm of both the grease seals. My clutch is on with a 32mm nut so I doubt I'll be able to swap parts since most are 38mm nuts. I ordered some bbs so I'll try that mod when they arrive. It should add a few rpms to the spring rating. I also went back to the 667x16mm stock belt and I am getting quicker acceleration. I might take a 670x18mm belt to a shop and ask them to trim it down to 16mm or I might try it with my 680x18mm.
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Post by redorchestra on Jul 13, 2010 20:32:17 GMT -5
Maybe I could redrill the holes for the pegs a mm higher so that the TD opens wider.
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