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Post by oldgeek on May 21, 2014 5:56:35 GMT -5
This is the TG next r 100cc pipe. Some of the straight sections weren't round from the Bender used so I tried to average them. Header id 24mm 29mm 76mm 29mm 32mm 172mm 32mm 35mm 82mm 35mm 39mm 100mm 62mm 62mm 119mm 89mm 89mm 61mm 89mm 89mm 155mm 23mm 23mm 16mm 23mm (end of cone had short straight section) 20mm 198mm 20mm I didn't pull the silencer off but if you need me to recheck anything or need more info or pics I'd be happy to help. I'll get the pro done this week end The first 3 sections had no taper they just put them togather and filled the gap with weld Thanks I hope this is helpful Brian Read more: 49ccscoot.proboards.com/conversation/22759#ixzz32LQ2tk4pSent from my SPH-L720 using proboards Thanks for the info! I will have to measure mine when I get a chance. FYI the link you provided must be a PM because I am not allowed access. |
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 6:04:00 GMT -5
I cut and paste from a pm. I had sent the dimensions to John a while back it was the fast way to get them for you without a lot of work
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by oldgeek on May 21, 2014 6:04:25 GMT -5
Easy? Sounds kind of difficult to me, but I haven't tried it yet. LoL! I did notice autotech now sells a nice looking con rod kit. I was wondering, will the autotech crank fit in the 50cc cases without having to hog the crank area out? By the dimensions autotech355 shows on that 10 pin 45mm stroke crank it should drop right in a 50 case. You would have to change the rod to a 12 pin for the big cylinders and then cut the cases for the Cylinder. I got the 8 port tall hoca Cylinder and 45mm crank from Ryan. I don't know what he was doing he pulled down a 54x45 and built a 55x48. then tore that down and put a 54x45 back in then went to a 55x43 I think. I bought the 54x45 kit between the 48mm and 43mm crank. It was only in a few days. Doesn't look like it ran long enough to seat the Rings Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards Autotech has a 100cc kit with a decent looking 42mm crank. I asked Carlos about getting just the crank, and he said they could order it for 139 + 25 for shipping. Might be another option to look at. |
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 6:15:45 GMT -5
By the dimensions autotech355 shows on that 10 pin 45mm stroke crank it should drop right in a 50 case. You would have to change the rod to a 12 pin for the big cylinders and then cut the cases for the Cylinder. I got the 8 port tall hoca Cylinder and 45mm crank from Ryan. I don't know what he was doing he pulled down a 54x45 and built a 55x48. then tore that down and put a 54x45 back in then went to a 55x43 I think. I bought the 54x45 kit between the 48mm and 43mm crank. It was only in a few days. Doesn't look like it ran long enough to seat the Rings Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards Autotech has a 100cc kit with a decent looking 42mm crank. I asked Carlos about getting just the crank, and he said they could order it for 139 + 25 for shipping. Might be another option to look at. That kit is for upgrading a 50cc case. I think it is a 42 mm crank small spline small taper Flywheel. You have to cut the cases for it just not as much as the stock 90cc cranks require. The od is about half way between the 50 and 90 cranks Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards |
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Post by Sitticuss on May 21, 2014 7:04:01 GMT -5
Looking forward to watching this build... I have a 50cc long case I'd love to make into a 90cc. I have the autotech kit in my 90cc. I was wondering who snagged that one up. I'm very happy with it well worth the cash...
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Post by nelson on May 21, 2014 7:50:43 GMT -5
I will likely run the stock 52mm pol70cc cylinder to begin with. Only thing I done to the top end is shave the stock head with a doughnut and turned into squish head. I think the compression is too low right now but I am going to run it while I work on my 50mm cylinder. I am going to do some port work and tune it to my pipe. From what I hear the 50mm is more rev happy than the 52mm. There was a racer on here that switched to a 50mm and picked up some time at the track. I have a few combinations in mind and will see what the best is for my application. I want to make good power and torque around 8000 rpm to about 10000, the determining factor will me my pipe. My technigas 100cc Pipe is smaller in comparison to my 70cc zx-r pipe which I find strange
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Post by nelson on May 21, 2014 8:06:26 GMT -5
 Pic of technigas next to my zx-r. |
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Post by nelson on May 21, 2014 8:06:45 GMT -5
Pic of technigas next to my zx-r. |
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Post by nelson on May 21, 2014 8:20:36 GMT -5
Stock polaris head  After I milled it, hopefully will have better performance. I will have to adjust compression ratio. To buy the 52mm squish head was 65$ !! The 54mm and 50Mm are 1/3 the price of the 52mm squish head. Here is what mine looks like after using a home made lathe to change the combustion chamber  |
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Post by 190mech on May 21, 2014 9:15:40 GMT -5
The Hoca crank oughta do just fine.I think cutting the cases by hand could be done with care and time..A square ended carbide burr would make the job a bit quicker..
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 9:22:14 GMT -5
I like the looks of that full circle 43.5 crank
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 90GTVert on May 21, 2014 9:42:07 GMT -5
Flap wheels did the trick for me when clearanced a case. It's not fun, but it works. You may still need a square end burr or stone though because it can be tough getting right to the inner edge of the case with some wheels. Start out with a rough grit flap wheel (I started at 60grit, worked to 120) and it will look like a sandstorm of aluminum so prepare to make a mess and wear a mask. I think one advantage to flap wheels for doing it with a drill is that you can get a big 3" diameter wheel and it makes it easier to keep things smooth vs a little burr.
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Post by oldgeek on May 21, 2014 17:56:29 GMT -5
Wow, Thanks for all the interest, and ideas from everyone.
I have been thinking about making some type of jigs for cutting the cases. I know it is not necessary, (just hog the damm things out!) but it would be nice to be able to do more cases in a repeatable fashion. I don't think the jigs I have in mind would be too hard to make.
It was 90 degrees here today, so we are getting slammed with work. Progress on this project will be slow.
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Post by 190mech on May 21, 2014 20:06:46 GMT -5
Ive been thinking about a portable crankcase cutting tool for a few years now,pilots off the crank bearing bore,a second pilot on the outer case half,,air powered rotary tool clamped in a pivot on the pilot shaft,tool hand swung while cutting the cases,then adjusted for another cut till its the right size.. Seen a vid by "dio deamon" on Utube with a drill powered fly cutter rig for cutting cases,looked kinda floppy...If you have a good idea,,Show us!  |
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Post by oldgeek on May 21, 2014 21:21:13 GMT -5
Ive been thinking about a portable crankcase cutting tool for a few years now,pilots off the crank bearing bore,a second pilot on the outer case half,,air powered rotary tool clamped in a pivot on the pilot shaft,tool hand swung while cutting the cases,then adjusted for another cut till its the right size.. Seen a vid by "dio deamon" on Utube with a drill powered fly cutter rig for cutting cases,looked kinda floppy...If you have a good idea,,Show us! Yeah, pretty much what you said! I believe you briefly pitched this idea once to me already, possibly that's where I got the "idea" from An old half of a crank with a bearing clearance on the OD allowing it to hand press into place. For the cutter I was thinking about a dremel hand piece mounted off center in a circle about the size of a quarter. Then mount that assembly to the crank half in a way that you can rotate the cutter assembly to adjust it out a little at a time. Make one for the small case half, and one for the large case half. For the throat of the case. I was thinking either a swing type cutter keyed off of 2 or 3 of the cyl stud holes, cutting 1/2 of the throat at a time. Another possibility is using a thick template (think huge base gasket) and some type of a mini router with a bearing that rides on the template, and a cutter that extends down into the throat. Sounds nice right? But getting something fabbed up with the tools I have to work with may be a chore. I have a halfway decent bench style drill press, grinders, and a plasma cutter that is near useless without a CNC table as far as I am concerned. Yeah, those flapper wheels Brent recommended are sounding better and better! |
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