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Post by Reign on Sept 10, 2010 15:38:06 GMT -5
Changing the stator is pretty straightforward. Once you get that flywheel off, it's really just 2 philips screws holding the whole thing in. The hardest part is getting the new stator's rubber gasket (where the wires come out of the case) in place. You'll probably need 2 flathead screwdrivers for that.
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 10, 2010 16:06:14 GMT -5
A little grease or oil helps too...
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 13, 2010 13:49:27 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Will let you know how i make out.
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 14, 2010 19:57:42 GMT -5
Hi guys. I dont have good news. I spent the last 2 hours replacing the stator and putting everything back together. The stator was a little tricky to remove but the flywheel puller definitely was a plus to have. Unfortunately replacing the stator did not fix my problem. I put in the new stator and new bulbs. Started it up and turned on the lights. At idle the lights worked, however as soon as i gave the scooter some gas all the bulbs blew out again, the same symptoms as in my original post.
At this point I dont know what else to do. Does anybody have any other suggestions? Again, thanks for your help.
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 15, 2010 8:11:29 GMT -5
Do you guys think it could possibly be a bad battery?
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 15, 2010 8:48:58 GMT -5
No, its putting too much juice into the battery though, thats for sure....
I hate to say it, but if you replaced the stator and the rectifier and still have the problem you might wanna do what Reign did and just bypass the whole charging system. Thats how i run my scooter with the current engine.... I have my headlight on a switch and a LED tail so the battery lasts a long time. Ive never drained it :skull:
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 15, 2010 10:03:49 GMT -5
I've had this problem on 2 scoots. My Triton I ended up relplacing the regulator 2x. The 2nd time it worked? My SunL had a short and for some reason it wouldn't blow the bulbs immediately and the recticfier had to be replaced as well. Also, I had my SunL blow bulbs after replacing the stator once. Turned out the stator was a little different, but that was a 4T. I think these 2Ts are pretty good about their parts working well. I would suggest feeling the wiring in multiple locations around the scooter and see if you get any hot spots. normally it should blow a fuse, but the SunL would heat up the wires and not always blow the fuse. Sorry, wish I had better advice. Every time I've had this sorta problem though, the regulator/rectifier has been involved... other than the wrong stator.
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 15, 2010 10:53:46 GMT -5
Ok. If I was going to bypass the charging system to run my lights how would that work? What would be involved?
Also I am getting confused on what role the rectifier/regulator plays. Some say that it has nothing to do with the lights because the lights pull their power directly from the stator and that the rectifier is only used for charging the battery.
Others make it sound like it is the key to the entire electrical system and that it regulates even the voltage to the lights? Just curious what is the right thinking here.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 15, 2010 11:36:54 GMT -5
Your stator puts out only AC current. AC current is converted to DC current by the rectifier/regulator. This DC current is then regulated to a set voltage range before being output by the rectifier/regulator. Too little voltage and your battery won't charge and your accessories won't work properly or possibly at all. Too much voltage and you can fry things (like blowing out light bulbs). If your accessory (lights in this case) are running off of DC current (typical of most bulbs and accessories on scooters, motorcycles, and automobiles) then the power supplied to it is coming from the rectifier or battery. If the accessory will only work when the engine is running, it is being powered by the stator's power coming through the rectifier. If the accessory works wihtout the engine running, it is operating off of battery power. I have read about people having AC powered lights on their scooters, but so far I have never encountered this. All of my scooters have standard 12V DC tail lights and headlights. One of my Tritons uses automotive fog lights hooked directly to the stock wiring as it's headlights now and they work beautifully (wouldn't happen if it were AC as I have seen others claim). That's how I understand it anyway. I'm no electrical genius, I have a hard time understanding a lot of it myself, so correct me if I'm wrong electrical gurus. Here's a wiring diagram if it would help... s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh302/turbostang331/49ccscoot/?action=view¤t=Phantomr4ielectricitydiagram.jpg |
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Post by drawkward on Sept 15, 2010 17:31:39 GMT -5
Your new rectifier may be defective, or not connected properly (different type with different connections). I suggest you try it again, and return that stator.
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Post by Reign on Sept 16, 2010 11:48:24 GMT -5
The problem with these things is that, while you'd think the headlight is running off the rectifier, it's actually directly wired to the stator, running on AC power. They're literally running a 12VDC bulb off of a 35ishVAC wire.
Take a closer look at that wiring diagram you posted, Brent. G/R is direct AC current from the stator. Follow that line to the rectifier. But wait... before it hits the rectifier, it's spliced off to the choke sensor. But wait... before it hits the choke sensor, it's spliced off and goes directly to the headlight switch.
I've witnessed this firsthand with my own scooter. Take a voltage meter, set on DC, and fire up your scooter. Try to get a voltage reading off the headlight socket. You wont. Set it to AC, and you'll see about 27 to 35V at idle.
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 16, 2010 14:34:11 GMT -5
The problem with these things is that, while you'd think the headlight is running off the rectifier, it's actually directly wired to the stator, running on AC power. They're literally running a 12VDC bulb off of a 35ishVAC wire. Take a closer look at that wiring diagram you posted, Brent. G/R is direct AC current from the stator. Follow that line to the rectifier. But wait... before it hits the rectifier, it's spliced off to the choke sensor. But wait... before it hits the choke sensor, it's spliced off and goes directly to the headlight switch. I've witnessed this firsthand with my own scooter. Take a voltage meter, set on DC, and fire up your scooter. Try to get a voltage reading off the headlight socket. You wont. Set it to AC, and you'll see about 27 to 35V at idle. So what do you think I should do? Why would they use 12v bulbs if the voltage is much higher? I am lost on what to do next. |
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Post by Reign on Sept 16, 2010 16:19:36 GMT -5
The problem with these things is that, while you'd think the headlight is running off the rectifier, it's actually directly wired to the stator, running on AC power. They're literally running a 12VDC bulb off of a 35ishVAC wire. Take a closer look at that wiring diagram you posted, Brent. G/R is direct AC current from the stator. Follow that line to the rectifier. But wait... before it hits the rectifier, it's spliced off to the choke sensor. But wait... before it hits the choke sensor, it's spliced off and goes directly to the headlight switch. I've witnessed this firsthand with my own scooter. Take a voltage meter, set on DC, and fire up your scooter. Try to get a voltage reading off the headlight socket. You wont. Set it to AC, and you'll see about 27 to 35V at idle. So what do you think I should do? Why would they use 12v bulbs if the voltage is much higher? I am lost on what to do next. It's not that the voltage is higher. 35VAC is actually pretty equivalent to 12VDC. The issue is that it's not regulated. So it's not a constant 35VAC. The higher your RPM's, the higher the voltage goes. You could go from say, 27V at idle, to 45V at 6000 RPM's. If it was a regulated circuit, it wouldnt be a problem. These were the things I had to think about when I redid mine. It's as easy as wiring in a second regulator for the headlights only. But not that easy, because when I attempted that, I fried my wiring harness. |
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 17, 2010 1:37:17 GMT -5
I am glad they (we) are not, but it seems others would be running into the same problem then.... Can the power be regulated at all?? Maybe a resistor or something?
:skull:
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Post by chunk73 on Sept 17, 2010 6:18:48 GMT -5
I was emailing back and forth with someone at scrappydogscooters. They said one thing to check is the ground wire, they said the ground is usally attached to the painted frame and that I could remove the paint from the area where the ground makes contact and reconnect it. Do you guys think that might help? Where is the main ground usually?
Thanks
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