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Post by stepthrutuner on Sept 7, 2009 22:10:05 GMT -5
I got up kind of early today (for a holiday) and while cruising a couple of other scooter sites I saw a post where someone mentioned a reed spacer. (I remember you did this mod, Brent.) I did some searching and got a little more info on the subject and decided to give it a try. I cut the angled neck off of my old leaky intake manifold leaving only the rubber coated crankcase mounting plate. I smoothed the cut side very smooth with a large flat file. I fitted the resulting plate between my recently replaced intake and the reed block using a little gasket sealer and went for a ride. If there was a difference I could not tell it. Later I may try relocating it below the under surface of my reed cage flange. My stupid tach had quit working over the last two weeks. Luckily it woke up and now, with my new belt, I can barely turn 10k. That's good. I didn't like turning so many revs to cruise anyway.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 8, 2009 7:13:35 GMT -5
I put my reed spacer between the cases and the reed block to space the reed cage upwards. That's supposed to provide a better path for the intake charge. The way you installed the spacer is more of an intake spacer. I did notice an improvement when I added a reed spacer, mostly midrange, but I wouldn't say it's a huge difference. I never re-installed the spacer with my bigger carb and reeds for some reason. I think I might though. 49ccscoot.com/homereed.html |
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 8, 2009 8:49:04 GMT -5
Mine seemed to help a bit in the mids also.
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Post by stepthrutuner on Sept 11, 2009 17:35:15 GMT -5
Yesterday I reworked my spacer so it would fit under my reed cage flange. I'm glad I did since I found one of my cf reed petals to be chipped off and not sealing. Another one had an air gap at it's sealing surface. The stock phenolic reeds were the same size so I installed them on my Top Performance cage since it had been profiled for flow. In riding it since I can tell a difference in response. I still need to go smaller than a 45 pilot jet though for smoother off-idle response.
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 12, 2009 6:44:50 GMT -5
I still have a problem keeping a good idle. Tried a leaner pilot, but like you i think i need a bit leaner one. It rich for the first 1/8 throttle then smooths out. I was thinking about putting a leaner needle in my stock Mikuni but a decided to keep saving for a new carb.
A couple weeks ago i pulled my spacer out for a few miles just outta curiosity to see how well it worked or didnt work. I ended up noticing a better midrange power that about it.
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Post by Thebatman on Sept 25, 2010 12:20:08 GMT -5
i know this is an old thread but i have a ?.....i am still running the oem reed cage, cage and intake are ported tho....would/could a spacer help me??? if so, how do you know the thickness??...i found a cage/intake on ebay but i have to save a bit first...lol
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 25, 2010 20:14:47 GMT -5
Most of the time you just kinda go a generic 4-5mm. After having a little more experience with the engine cases, I would say the proper way would be to pull everything apart and see exactly what it takes to give the incoming air/fuel the most direct path to the ports. That's a big pain unless you are doing a full build though, so we end up back at the generic 4-5mm spacer. lol
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Post by Thebatman on Sept 29, 2010 9:12:34 GMT -5
generic is ok with me....lol.... i have had it apart before.. i know the intake openings are WAY TINY on this thing..which i wonder how much restriction is right there.. i am saving for a reed cage but didnt know if a spacer would help....
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