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Post by pitobread on Jan 2, 2019 15:19:46 GMT -5
It may work. Similar to why you stagger your a b c port openings. The first port to open has combustion gasses forced down creating reversion. Perhaps by a slight stagger it allows one charge to be built up in the other runner instead of both being acted upon. But it will 100% mess up your flows. But if it's an old inefficient motor perhaps that isnt the limiting factor in that case.
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 22:51:11 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 20:53:01 GMT -5
Yeah it happened as I was pulling into my driveway, engine just hard stopped as I let off the gas. I had started up a hill and been into it for a second then let off and it dies.
Again no mention in any of the literature that these spacers are needed. Just leaves you guessing.
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 20:37:56 GMT -5
Thanks man, saved me some headaches.
This complete engine sure is lacking in some pieces! I have the white spacers but the kit didnt have the black spacer. I will make one tomorrow at work
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 19:29:10 GMT -5
Cover is off
Gave it a light re press but the pulley still drags. It was tight before but now with the bits of aluminum smeared on there it drags.
Shaft is installed to full depth. Short of making a small shim to space it out something is mis machined. The bearing has a circlip so it cannot fall out the back either...
May just machine the rear of the pulley half a mm or so back, but honestly you shouldn't have to do that.
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 18:38:55 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 18:19:48 GMT -5
According to Malossi instructions there is no bearing in the inner casing..
It's just the bearing in the cover, then the bearing in the kicker cover that support the shaft.
I was just watching my assembly video at that timecode.
There is a retaining clip that holds the thing from going in too far... but perhaps it's moving ever so slightly on that
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 18:02:23 GMT -5
It's a lot easier to drive than the Dio was, but equally as eager to pick the front wheel up in the air. Here is the problem I have currently encountered though, I pulled in my driveway and the bike did the typical hard stop like it soft seized. I tried the kicker and sure enough it was kinda hard to kick over. Pulled the jug, everything is fine, not any marks at all really.. Pulled the kicker cover to find this.  There is no end play on that shaft either, so it's not like it can walk around. There was clearance there before as well... so I don't know where it went.. it definitely rubs though. Don't know what to make of it, none of the shims provided fit on the shaft and then allow the rear half to fit over it. Re read the instructions and didn't see any wording about it needing one there, only under the bell. I am going to pull the trans and inspect further but something odd is going on. |
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 1:48:48 GMT -5
LED's do work on AC power. just not EVERY led works on AC power.
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Post by pitobread on Jan 1, 2019 1:27:35 GMT -5
Started it backwards today, that was exciting.. Quick timing fix and all was better. Hoping tomorrow is even remotely clear, I plan on a quick burn to shake it down.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 31, 2018 17:12:49 GMT -5
Although I bought another set of GSX-R forks, I think I will be using the YZ forks because they are light.
Cue modifying them to a shorter length.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 30, 2018 12:51:56 GMT -5
Fun Fact
Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Honda all sell variants of the case sealant from ThreeBond. There are more than a few different formulations though. I have heard rumors that Kawasaki's Pro MX team used to use Yamabond with duct tape over the logo!
However any formulation I think is FAR better than silicone. It is mostly inert to gasoline, unlike silicone which swells and looses adhesion.
I think Suzuki is by far the cheapest and what I currently have a tube of. A tube will last you for a long time. You can also buy it directly from Threebond although there are many discussions on what "formulation" is the best.
I currently use it for everything, it's so much better than silicone. You can get it from fortnine or amazon.
Also as others have said, less is more! That photo of the silicone a few pages back.. Yeesh! 95% of what was applied there would be squished out into the engine or outside. I would have great concern about the oil strainer or passages getting plugged.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 30, 2018 12:29:24 GMT -5
It's the perfect sleeper.
Nobody suspects the Italian Inquisition.
I do need better suspension.. the current stuff lacks rebound dampening. And I need slicks.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 30, 2018 11:04:06 GMT -5
My neighbour is building a bike around one of these engines!
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Post by pitobread on Dec 29, 2018 18:51:39 GMT -5
Got it out for a wash today, too rainy to ride still. I want to find a SR50 handlebar cover with the integrated signals.    |
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