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Post by pitobread on Jan 6, 2018 18:32:14 GMT -5
Well sometimes its a win, sometimes its a loss. So My CMR's wont work without some divine intervention of the machining kind. It seems that they use a 16mm crank pin VS the 18 of a normal stock crank. So my Pro-X rods wont work, luckily it seems like Taida will work. But I don't have that crank yet and the CMR look quite nice machining wise. Im probably still going to bore it out and make it work, but man. What a nuisance. I think most of the cranks that use the 2AB polished style rods use the smaller pin, which means smaller bearing etc etc. Gross. ![](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Sgghgr8sNcg/WlFbyuaPSzI/AAAAAAAAQRM/LuR_1I48eVo4v1vShqYf5GbUhrRwp02vQCKgBGAs/s1600/20180106_150934.jpg) Subsequently I could also use a Pro-X 03.1005 which is the 22mm big end VS the 24mm stock Dio with all other dimensions the same. Also TKRJ make a rod that will work www.tkrj.co.jp/goods/m-BH0140B--GC8-.php I may order one but the smaller bearing doesn't give me hope it will last as long. Thoughts?
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Post by pitobread on Jan 5, 2018 20:45:01 GMT -5
If you had base and head gasket leaks, your tune is a wash. Start again. Then do wheelies.
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Post by pitobread on Jan 4, 2018 20:32:42 GMT -5
With the shoes touching in the center means they were cut for a smaller diameter drum,,if its a matched set(clutch and drum),I'd do some writing or calling to the S6 tech turds,for the $$$$ they charge the darn parts should fit and function perfectly!!The China crap is another story,we are buying a 'kit' that must be finished,but that should'nt be the rule with S6 stuff!!! ![(2cents)](//storage.proboards.com/2855264/images/FnZfjMHcC6XqLcotF890.gif) I had the same problem with my Malossi Delta clutch and bell, I think you really should be doing something similar to this with most performance parts if you want 100% engagement and performance.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 31, 2017 22:02:03 GMT -5
Its annoying but pull the bell, sand the high spots, try again, sand the high spots.. on mine this only took a few minutes to do, on yours I could see this being a pain haha.
The more the friction surface engages, the better the bite.
Mine was only biting on the very tips, once I had 50% of the friction surface making contact, it was a huge difference.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 31, 2017 3:21:40 GMT -5
My Malossi was kind of underwhelming when i first installed it, after I sanded the faces to get better contact patch it got real grabby.
Could also be some packaging oil or something on the clutch, maybe try washing the bell and clutch with some brakeclean?
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Post by pitobread on Dec 30, 2017 16:56:51 GMT -5
Got the CMR.. in my hand quality wise it looks better made than the OEM Honda crank I have on hand.
It uses a 2ab style rod, which looks a little spindly. However you can get a pro-x rod kit (03.1010) for Dio and throw a nice forged Japanese made rod on there if you wished.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 29, 2017 7:12:05 GMT -5
Im trying to make a repository of products available for the AF16 / AF18 / DD50 / ZX Gyro clone guys. I just started inputing stuff into it but hopefully it will be a complete place to see what is still available for these motors. If i'm missing any let me know. I know I don't have all the products, but i'm trying to add in as many manufacturers I can think of as well. Its a work in progress. hondadio50.blogspot.ca/
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Post by pitobread on Dec 29, 2017 4:24:12 GMT -5
I had a set of Dio cases that were dull grey, I had completely degreased them, ran them in the dishwasher and scrubbed off any loose dirt or corrosion from the outside with scotch bright. The key for this to work is it has to be clean, like zero grease. Use as directed, have water handy, wet item, spray on and wash off after 30 seconds or so. Don't over soak or you will end up with streaking or staining. Eagle1 Mag wheel cleaner or a similar product. Here is a before and after of my own cases, they had taken on a dark grey color after cleaning with general cleaning products. ![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D7XBkGhMbpo/WkNLZ1JGQ2I/AAAAAAAAQEg/E_xcY_NiBWwewrubxup5d1x9bt0U-N-9QCKgBGAs/s1600/20171223_134447.jpg) ![](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x-_kR0I_qDo/WkYIwwOVQ6I/AAAAAAAAQG0/w1YiPcLCbrMxvwG_ylTtTcRtuhqqYR4UQCKgBGAs/s1600/20171229_000411.jpg) Dang things look close to new. General caution, it's acid, it will fuck your eyes or skin up, wear gloves and saftey glasses, etc. Do it on something you don't care about, not your kitchen floor or bathtub.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 22:07:55 GMT -5
is there a space for making an rotodisk intake on the honda block ![](https://www.frcomoto.si/9063-thickbox_default/rotodisk-set-piaggio-gilera-parmakit.jpg) Possibly, it would be pretty tight. Probably not impossible tho.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 21:58:47 GMT -5
Well the Malossi mount means I can stuff a Banshee reed cage in there if need be. So the rod is this. Pro-X 03.1102. It is a 91mm length 17mm small end 24mm big end. Factory is 80mm length, same big/small end. ![](https://www.3pracing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/600x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/0/3/03.1102.jpg) I will probably widen the crank slightly to allow for the bigger bearing, this makes the most sense to me vs grinding down the rod. I have 2 different cranks on the way, the CMR 44mm stroke And also a Taida, 43.6mm stroke. Here is the page that lists the Pro-X rod dimensions by brand. Very useful to figure out big and small end dimensions. www.pro-x.com/prox-connecting-rod-dimensions-brand/
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 15:02:23 GMT -5
Cool project! Im looking forward to you inlet solution! Have you thought about relocating the inlet to the front of the engine somewhere beneath the exhaust? Not really. I kinda just want the thing to bolt in like OEM (motor wise) and that would cause some mounting issues.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 14:57:00 GMT -5
There’s also this route. Intake window built into the spacer. Then just cap off the stock window. Or utilize it! ![](https://s18.postimg.org/68vkb43cl/B755_AA31-418_E-4428-_AD17-_CDF188_CC6_A31.jpg) ![](https://s18.postimg.org/lgbjw2339/CE1_FE6_D2-4642-4033-_BC3_F-3_EEF4052_DE43.jpg) I have seen simliar to that. I want to do something like that, but use both, by bolting the plate on in the original valve spacing and then cutting away the original cases. Are those for a Jog engine?
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 14:55:13 GMT -5
I have a Malossi VL6 here you can snag for cheap. Thanks for the offer, but I've already ordered the Malossi unit.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 4:30:25 GMT -5
Heres where i'm at with the reed block.
this cylinder can produce 25-28HP without breaking a sweat. the inlet wont flow that in it's current state. Nor will the CT reed.
I want to adapt an RC-One reed and inlet there, but the cases will still be a restriction. I want to make an entirely new baseplate that will allow me to cut away the Honda cases and will allow maximum flow and provide a mount for the RC-One inlet.
i'm making 2 cranks, going to take a stab at making a bob weight, balancing and adding tungsten or carbide to try and balance it out. I am still waiting for the Pro-X rods to get here but they should be here soon.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 2:40:26 GMT -5
So I tapped and bolted it on for a test fit. ![](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9vRpou0W7Y0/WkNLZ8ZnXAI/AAAAAAAAQEg/JxMT5GolsGMY1HOe3mqjuJ4hkrZli9fuwCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225456.jpg) It looks like the inlet will work with some massaging. However it will be a restriction even with a big CT. Im working on that. ![](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xo2Ju3ZHmXY/WkNLZ9cbnxI/AAAAAAAAQEg/UTGIj1gLAAYk_odHMah9eTU9ms9ERBPggCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225525.jpg) ![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iUIjR1zGztM/WkNOHAFdFXI/AAAAAAAAQEs/0YQLAf3jc9wTxNvOalKlXceN18nEGrQTQCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225448.jpg) I can share how I am going to build a crank from scratch to make this work next I guess.
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