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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 17:53:36 GMT -5
I have exactly one gallon of gas in a can. How much 2 stroke oil do i add to it?
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Post by spaz12 on May 21, 2016 17:56:37 GMT -5
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Post by spaz12 on May 21, 2016 17:57:58 GMT -5
I'm sure there's a calculator here as well, but not sure where.
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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 18:18:34 GMT -5
i guess my question is what ratio do i use.. i can calculate it, I just didnt know what the ratio was... so im guessing its 40:1
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Post by Fox on May 21, 2016 18:34:24 GMT -5
Okay so that tube with the screw on the carb is a makeshift plug for the oil injection port. That's where the oil would be injected into the carb if the injector was still working. You can shorten it and use a shorter screw to make it more pleasing to the eyes or you could even melt the end closed with a lighter.
If the scooter has been sitting for a long time then the gas may be rancid or it may not even have any oil in it at all. You can't trust a seller to have done the right thing. If there is no oil in it then the engine will burn up. You should drain out the old gas and mix up a fresh batch. Old gas can make it act like it's acting. Smell it. If it smells like stale paint thinner and looks like pee then it's bad.
The little brass screw just in front of the air filter that goes in at an angle is the idle mixture screw. you can try playing with that to get it to idle. It works the opposite from a 4T carb. In is richer and out is leaner. It meters the air in the idle circuit whereas a 4T screw meters fuel.
The other screw is the idle speed screw.
Go and get some good quality multi-puropose 2 stroke oil and a measuring cup. I mix 3.5 oz. per gallon. Other people will tell you 3 oz or even 4 oz. I wouldn't go more than 4 oz.
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Post by Fox on May 21, 2016 18:38:37 GMT -5
Oh yeah you mentioned the throttle was acting weird. That slide with the needle has a slot in one side that fits over a little metal tab in the slide bore. You may have it installed 180º off so it's not sliding all the way down into the slide bore.
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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 18:40:12 GMT -5
thanks fox! and everyone else
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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 18:53:02 GMT -5
i cant even get the damn thing started and ive come to the conclusion that its a carb prblem... its like gas just keeps leaking out the bottom. im gonna try taking the carb off again and messing with the float... when i took it off the first time the float seemed fine though. it moved freely and wasnt stuck at all
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Post by Fox on May 21, 2016 19:17:28 GMT -5
Is the auto-petcock functioning properly?
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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 20:09:56 GMT -5
Is the auto-petcock functioning properly? Thats a very good question. Havent checked that yet. It seems to suck gas when im trying to start it
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Post by frank50e on May 21, 2016 20:31:07 GMT -5
Meant to ask this earlier but what is the compression reading?
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Post by gooddog on May 21, 2016 20:57:50 GMT -5
I see that pod air filter might be letting too much air in and really shows up when the bike is warm and no choke on. you may have too much air with that pod filter on. I put one on and the bike ran until it warmed up. then it slowed to a crawl. then it died a horrible death. not really but I put the original airbox back on and it ran great. then i sold it.
you could wrap something around the pod to keep the airflow down. the original airbox probably had an aperture about the size of a quarter for the inlet. at least mine did. that thing has no limit on the airflow
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Post by renagade281 on May 21, 2016 21:27:49 GMT -5
Meant to ask this earlier but what is the compression reading? 120 And i dont have the stock airbox
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Post by frank50e on May 21, 2016 22:21:05 GMT -5
That's high enough that the po's piston ring story is bs.You can jet up to compensate for the pod but scoring an air box that fits will make your life easier.
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Post by niz76 on May 22, 2016 0:39:15 GMT -5
If fuel is leaking out the bottom of the carb then yes the float needs to be readjusted. That'll also make it very difficult to start (flooded). Check the little tip of the needle- most are rubber. If it's deformed or has a 'ring' formed into it you might get away with adjusting the float height so it pushes harder on the needle. I've also found it helps if you have any tiny little dremel accessories to do a quick swirl and reseat the brass part where the needle tip snuggles into. It's a fine balance to find where the carb doesnt leak and flood when bowls full and also that it opens enough for WOT fuel supply....
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