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Post by spaz12 on Jul 15, 2016 21:16:42 GMT -5
That's interesting. Does the electric motor lock up when the gas engine is running? I wonder if there is slippage between the output shaft on the cvt and the electric motor? Before seeing these images, I pictured the electric motor somewhere in the cvt system.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 15, 2016 21:26:20 GMT -5
Running dissimilar battery packs in parallel will cause one battery to discharge into the other. Even if the paralleled batteries are exactly the same it will cause problems. Running a battery isolator circuit is recommended.
Dual rear shocks make my scoot ride like a lumber wagon.
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Post by arkie on Jul 15, 2016 22:47:15 GMT -5
That's interesting. Does the electric motor lock up when the gas engine is running? I wonder if there is slippage between the output shaft on the cvt and the electric motor? Before seeing these images, I pictured the electric motor somewhere in the cvt system. I had pictured the electric motor on the front wheel.
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Post by Chris Cristini on Jul 15, 2016 22:57:26 GMT -5
That's interesting. Does the electric motor lock up when the gas engine is running? I wonder if there is slippage between the output shaft on the cvt and the electric motor? Before seeing these images, I pictured the electric motor somewhere in the cvt system. You mean like this cool design?
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Post by dachurchpcguy on Jul 15, 2016 23:50:26 GMT -5
That's interesting. Does the electric motor lock up when the gas engine is running? I wonder if there is slippage between the output shaft on the cvt and the electric motor? Before seeing these images, I pictured the electric motor somewhere in the cvt system. No, your picturing the motor wrong in your mind. Imagine the wheel is connected directly to the CVT, like a regular scooter. Inside the wheel is the hub motor. When current is applied to the hub motor it can react to the wheel side or the hub motor side. The hub motor side is locked by the torque bracket so the wheel turns, just like an eBike. In an eBike with a rear mounted hub motor you can pedal and/or use the hub motor. The motor reacts against the torque arm thus spinning the wheel. Did that help? How about this: How do Hub Motors Work?
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Post by nonone on Jul 16, 2016 1:40:38 GMT -5
You might be able to get away with raising the needle on the carb. 33 85 is standard and works for most. A combination between 35 88 and 33 85 is a good place to start. You can get 10 sizes of pilot jets and 5 sizes main jets on ebay from china for around $7.50.
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Post by mclark999 on Jul 16, 2016 8:04:02 GMT -5
Hopefully you know about the endless sphere forum on electric vehicles. I've built a number of electric bikes and commute about 24 miles daily on one. If you are getting 15 mph out of electric only mode with just 500 watts, I think that's great.
Seems like "both" mode isn't really working right. Think it would be better if it was gas powered first and then electric kicks on when speed drops but throttle is on a high position. Basically electric boost for acceleration away from a stop and for hills.
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Post by dachurchpcguy on Jul 16, 2016 8:46:25 GMT -5
I've been on endless sphere for years.
My eBike is 500 watts, it's zippy, but it's a LOT lighter. This bike would need at least 1000 watts to be practical. The 15 mph was on a flat road, I'm not sure it could make it up a hill at over 7-8 mph. I may try it, but it's not critical.
It would be great if the electric motor stayed on in "Mix" mode, that would be a good boost of power. Unfortunately it shuts down totally around 12-15 mph as best I can figure.
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Post by mclark999 on Jul 17, 2016 9:40:13 GMT -5
I've been on endless sphere for years. My eBike is 500 watts, it's zippy, but it's a LOT lighter. This bike would need at least 1000 watts to be practical. The 15 mph was on a flat road, I'm not sure it could make it up a hill at over 7-8 mph. I may try it, but it's not critical. It would be great if the electric motor stayed on in "Both" mode, that would be a good boost of power. Unfortunately it shuts down totally around 12-15 mph as best I can figure. Wonder if you can reprogram the electronics or replace with manual controls
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Post by dachurchpcguy on Jul 17, 2016 12:01:01 GMT -5
I've been on endless sphere for years. My eBike is 500 watts, it's zippy, but it's a LOT lighter. This bike would need at least 1000 watts to be practical. The 15 mph was on a flat road, I'm not sure it could make it up a hill at over 7-8 mph. I may try it, but it's not critical. It would be great if the electric motor stayed on in "Both" mode, that would be a good boost of power. Unfortunately it shuts down totally around 12-15 mph as best I can figure. Wonder if you can reprogram the electronics or replace with manual controls Reprogramming would not be ideal. I could probably wire in a "Boost" switch to enable the hub motor circuit while the main switch is set to "Engine". I have a couple bikes with very little plastic on them, maybe I can trace the circuit. That would be useful for short bursts going up hills. It might not work at all though, the controller may have a speed limit set for 15mph or so. It really wouldn't be worth replacing the controller for a 500 watt motor.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 18, 2016 5:55:53 GMT -5
A little microcontroller like a Raspberry Pi or Arduino could help override or customize the setup.
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Post by dachurchpcguy on Jul 18, 2016 11:37:22 GMT -5
A little microcontroller like a Raspberry Pi or Arduino could help override or customize the setup. That would indeed be possible but it would add another layer of complexity. 1) The simpler solution would be to have a mechanical switch to enable the hub motor when in "Engine" mode, you'd probably need a relay as well. 2) An alternative would be to wire in another motor control in parallel to the existing unit. This would be cheaper than pi but it would require a bunch of connectors. Solution 1 looks like the way to go, if I wanted to bother with it. The one wrench in the system is that the engine charges the battery once you get about 20 mph or so. There's a series of lights that light up as the charge level increases. I don't think it would be a real problem since we're only talking about 2 amps or so.
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Post by Chris Cristini on Jul 18, 2016 12:18:41 GMT -5
A little microcontroller like a Raspberry Pi or Arduino could help override or customize the setup. That would indeed be possible but it would add another layer of complexity. 1) The simpler solution would be to have a mechanical switch to enable the hub motor when in "Engine" mode, you'd probably need a relay as well. 2) An alternative would be to wire in another motor control in parallel to the existing unit. This would be cheaper than pi but it would require a bunch of connectors. Solution 1 looks like the way to go, if I wanted to bother with it. The one wrench in the system is that the engine charges the battery once you get about 20 mph or so. There's a series of lights that light up as the charge level increases. I don't think it would be a real problem since we're only talking about 2 amps or so. I would be careful with paralleling Controllers unless they are design to be parallel Mofets or IGBT's have internal diodes most controllers that are on cheap side anyway have the motor connected directly to the Drain on the power transistors so you could damage the fets doing that. here is an example.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 18, 2016 15:57:41 GMT -5
I am not talking about paralleling the motor controllers, just adding a microcontroller to the sensors and inputs to change operating characteristics, BIG difference.
BTW, I have designed and specified motor controllers for many applications back in my day.
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Post by Chris Cristini on Jul 18, 2016 16:39:06 GMT -5
I am not talking about paralleling the motor controllers, just adding a microcontroller to the sensors and inputs to change operating characteristics, BIG difference. BTW, I have designed and specified motor controllers for many applications back in my day. I agree should I donate one of my Arduino Uno's? I get them for like $9 and they work great for 1000s of applications and programming is easy.
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