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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 21:06:22 GMT -5
if the kill switch wire is removed from the CDI then none of the kill switches are in the circuit, the key also won't afect it, as it simply acts as a kill switch when you turn it off, the ignition in an AC cdi is independent of the rest of the bike. What is your cranking voltage on the black/red wire (AC) and your pickup voltage, at the blue white wire? (DC) it's a very small voltage. you said it started when you moved the pickup? have you changed it? have you tried to move it closer to the magnet on the outside of the flywheel?
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 21:11:54 GMT -5
if the kill switch wire is disconnected, you should be able to kick start the bike regardless of anything else, assuming fuel ,compression,and timing,valves etc, that takes it down to the stator charge coil , the pickup, cdi, and coil and wire
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Post by dexameth on Nov 6, 2017 15:45:23 GMT -5
Dexameth- thanks for the reply. My thought is that if I entirely take the switches out of the picture then I can rule them out as bad. My main question stands -- if the bk/wh wire is removed from the CDI does this eliminate bad switches of any kind as a possible source of no-spark problems? The cdi has no idea whats happening if the key is in the off position. You can't bypass the ignition switch unless you have hotwired it. |
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 6, 2017 19:01:23 GMT -5
This is an AC cdi, the only thing the ignition switch does, is provide or break a kill switch ground. An AC cdi draws all its power from the charge coil winding. The entire ignition other then the kill switch, is self sustaining. The engine would run independently of the bike
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Post by dexameth on Nov 6, 2017 20:11:44 GMT -5
if the kill switch wire is removed from the CDI then none of the kill switches are in the circuit, the key also won't afect it, as it simply acts as a kill switch when you turn it off, the ignition in an AC cdi is independent of the rest of the bike. What is your cranking voltage on the black/red wire (AC) and your pickup voltage, at the blue white wire? (DC) it's a very small voltage. you said it started when you moved the pickup? have you changed it? have you tried to move it closer to the magnet on the outside of the flywheel? Ha! Sorry, missed this one. Learned something new too, thanks! |
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 6, 2017 20:28:52 GMT -5
if the kill switch wire is removed from the CDI then none of the kill switches are in the circuit, the key also won't afect it, as it simply acts as a kill switch when you turn it off, the ignition in an AC cdi is independent of the rest of the bike. What is your cranking voltage on the black/red wire (AC) and your pickup voltage, at the blue white wire? (DC) it's a very small voltage. you said it started when you moved the pickup? have you changed it? have you tried to move it closer to the magnet on the outside of the flywheel? Ha! Sorry, missed this one. Learned something new too, thanks! the AC cdi concept came from old trail bikes, the idea is even if your battery is dead, you can still kickstart the bike, and it will let you ride it back out. DC CDI's have a more stable spark, and a hotter spark, but you'll be pushing your bike, if you have a dead battery |
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Post by nikg736 on Nov 6, 2017 21:43:40 GMT -5
This confirms that it cant be a switch problem and therefore the final component that I have not tried switching out is a stator/pickup coil. I got 70 or more volts out of the main power and 3 volts from the pickup coil when I tested them. But I also measured the pickup another time and it showed about 0.5 volt, which according to what I have read, is still plenty to cause the CDI to fire. Since I am getting an intermittent spark here and there is this an indication of a bad pickup? I think I am just going to replace the whole stator/pickup coil, but now my problem is the bad flywheel puller. It seems like it should fit the flywheel, but it just doesnt. It wont thread in no matter if I try reverse threading or regular threading. Again, I dont know if I got a faulty tool or if the flywheel on my particular scoot is the oddball. For $6 should I get this one off Amazon? www.amazon.com/Ketofa-FLYWHEEL-MAGNETO-STARTER-CHINESE/dp/B00NDCIPVI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JWAAPHC4RHH4XABXC3QMWould the above from Amazon be any different than the one listed below? The one listed below is the one I ordered off eBay and have not gotten it to work. www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-SCOOTER-50CC-125CC-150CC-GY6-HIGH-QUALITY-Stator-Magneto-Flywheel-Puller/182054514169?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649My thought is that all these pullers LOOK exactly the same and I think they ARE exactly the same. I dont mind paying another $6 if that puller on Amazon would somehow be different and actually work, but I just have a feeling I will wind up with two of the exact same tool, neither one works, and I am no closer to replacing the stator. |
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 6, 2017 22:29:54 GMT -5
that's the puller I got and it worked just fine, with these cheap tools, you never know exactly what you are going to get.
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Post by dexameth on Nov 6, 2017 22:32:51 GMT -5
I've seen a flywheel with threads BARELY cut into it for the puller. Does your threads look okay?
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 6, 2017 23:14:24 GMT -5
have you tried swapping CDIs yet? they are cheap, also check the ground wire for the CDI box,
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Post by nikg736 on Nov 8, 2017 21:55:23 GMT -5
Just as a refresh - I have tried several different CDI, coil and spark plugs. Also when we did have spark I tested switches and they interrupted it. Kill wire disconnected from CDI has no affect on producing spark. Only thing left is the stator.
I have a nagging feeling that it is just the pickup, but I would hate to get that one part and have it be the actual stator especially when the whole assembly is like $15-$20
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 9, 2017 4:40:44 GMT -5
I just had to fix all of the pins on my cdi as they were loose on the pins when plugged in I wonder if you could have the same issue, the crimps looked like they might have been made by a 5 year old(might have been)
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Post by dexameth on Nov 9, 2017 6:13:38 GMT -5
So I had your problem yesterday. Drove 7 miles from home and Scootie just cut off when I came to a stop. Started up, then it stalled again and wouldn't start. I walked a couple miles, then wiggled around the 5 wires coming from the stator and it fired right up. I got home and reconnected everything. I don't know what wire was loose but I drove around all day after that with no issues.
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Post by cagiva4ever on Nov 9, 2017 12:32:43 GMT -5
This topic is going "up into tree ar*e 1st" , so to speak...
Basics 1st:
name the Scooter brand and model Exactly. if its Re-branded, name also its original Manufac and model code.
"there is a AC-cdi models and DC-cdi models and a 3rd cdi version... Gues what its like......No its not TCI....."
Many of these chinese 139qmb/qma's are the 3rd model...............already from early 2000 era.
with a single look at your model specific wiring diagram, i can spot it in a 1 second.
there is a specific reason why i have so far pointed out certain things........Need to rule out if you have it Model or not.
Could you look at your Manufac/VIN plate at your scooter, and also registration papers, for the Brand and model code...
i assume you dint get a owners manula with it, that includes w-diagram ?
what country are you at, can you ask model specific w-diagram from offical dealer ?
if not, its googling time........
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