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Post by ThomasTPFL on Feb 15, 2018 8:09:28 GMT -5
Possibly. Being super rich at start would push the compression up and let it sort of start.
It sounds like you may be running really lean though. Have you cleaned the carb thoroughly? Blocked main jet? Your electric start is working well. Try starting it holding the throttle rather open but using your other hand to cover the carb's inlet. Use your hand to adjust airflow into the bike and see if you can get it to run that way.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 11:54:41 GMT -5
I was trying that. Covering the inlet on the box and it seemed like it wanted to start that way.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 12:16:21 GMT -5
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Post by 'O'Verse on Feb 15, 2018 14:32:49 GMT -5
If your gonna take your head off. It's better to just replace all your gaskets at once. Cylinder base, head, and exhaust. Just look for a cheap gasket kit. But if you knew your base gasket was still in running/ sealing condition. You could just pull the head and use a Copper spray like permatex to re-seal the head after cleaning up both cylinder and head surfaces. Before you go and buy either I'd try to re-torque your head bolts down (in a star pattern) without stripping them. Maybe you can get the gap to close up. If not then just spring for a new gasket set. And get comfortable wrenching on a two stroke.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 22:01:45 GMT -5
If i tear it apart do i have to take piston apart or will the cylinder just slide over it?
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 22:04:31 GMT -5
Cant seem to find a gasket kit that Doesnt come with a top end. Can only find top end rebuilds.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 22:09:50 GMT -5
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 15, 2018 23:51:12 GMT -5
Would i just tighten the bolts on the head? There not studs right? So if i tighten them the stud or long bolt won't come loose / strip? Just the nut would get tight / loose? I remember changing my head because the spark plug threads were stripped but i don't think the long studs came out.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 16, 2018 9:20:15 GMT -5
Parts 2 & 5 on that link to PFS would be what you'd want if you replace the head and base gaskets. If you don't have a head gasket in there, spray that copper spray that 'O'Verse suggested onto the head as a sealant. I usually use a cap from a spray can close in size to cover the combustion chamber so I'm mostly getting the sealing surface and not the whole head. Even if you use a head gasket, that copper spray is good. A couple of coats, following the directions on the can for whatever brand you get. The cylinder and head should be held to the cases with studs and nuts. Ideally, you'd back off each nut and then torque them to spec with a torque wrench. Many don't use torque wrenches though, and the really cheap ones can be so far off that they'll let you strip something just getting to spec or not get it tight enough. If nothing else, just make sure none of the nuts are loose on the studs. Use a criss-cross pattern for tightening the nuts BTW.
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Feb 16, 2018 10:16:00 GMT -5
Random aside.... You say you replaced the head? There is an off chance that the new head is slightly shorter at the stud holes that the old head and the nuts are bottoming out on the studs before they have a chance to solidly clamp. My brother just went through that on his Kymco.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 16, 2018 14:19:23 GMT -5
I have had that head on there for like 3 years and never had any issues till now. And where can i get the copper spray? And should i order new head and base gaskets or just get the spray? And is it like a rtv sealer like i would basically be making a gasket out of the copper stuff or would i just spray it around where the head and cylinder base meet? Ive never used that stuff before
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 16, 2018 14:21:48 GMT -5
Im going to take the head off today and make sure there is or isnt a gasket in there. If anyone can tell me where in store to get that copper stuff ill get. A can. So i just pretty much take the head off put a rattle can lid in the middle and spray around where a gasket should be. Should i do that for the crank case as well?
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Feb 16, 2018 14:48:05 GMT -5
They'll have it at AutoZone/advance/oteillys whatever. It's kind of like a very thin rtv loaded down with copper powder.
I've even used gold spray paint in a pinch as a gasket sealer. Or was that to huff to take my mind off the blown head gasket?
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 16, 2018 14:56:52 GMT -5
It won't really hurt to just try the head gasket repair without the base gasket first. It could create a base gasket leak, but honestly I've done a lot of head gasket swaps or fixes without ever touching the base gasket. If you have any suspicion that the base gasket seal is compromised by something you do, then either replace it or you really should do a leak test after it is all together. Leak tests are a great thing for a 2T any time you have odd troubles anyway IMO, but most new to them seem resistant to make a tester and try it.
The copper spray should be with the other sealants and gasket makers. There are other brands, but Permatex is pretty common.
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Post by stancejontland on Feb 16, 2018 21:15:34 GMT -5
So if i have a head gasket on already just try to seal it back up with the spray? If i dont have a gasket should i get a gasket or just try to spray the head where a gasket should be?? I wouldnt think my bike would even run without a head gasket.
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