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Post by katt on Apr 14, 2018 22:11:10 GMT -5
1. Whats the front brake hose replacement interval? 2. What brake pads recommendation? 3. My speedometer does not work its problem with the dash i think, how to diagnose? 4. Fuel gauge not working how to diagnose? 5. How do i test if front/rear shocks are still good? 6. Headlight upgrade option (my bicycle has brighter headlight than this scooter).
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Post by bluegoatwoods on Apr 15, 2018 1:21:58 GMT -5
Oh, boy........It's going to be hard to give you any real answers. I spent a couple of minutes, in fact, trying to decide whether or not to answer this or to move on. I was thinking to myself, "I'm just not gonna have anything useful to say". Maybe it would be more accurate to say that I don't have anything 'detailed' to say.
But I can point you in a direction that I think could be helpful.
Somewhere on this page (for me it's left side, middle height) you'll find a series of six tabs. One of them is labelled "Manuals". Click on that and you'll find a shop manual. If not for your particular bike, then you'll find one that's plenty close enough.
Studying that you'll find, for instance, photos or drawings of just where your speedometer cable hooks up to the front hub, where the cable winds through the neighborhood of the fork and headset and how to get at the back of your actual speedometer. Following that, you'll be able to find what's wrong with your speedometer.
Following the manual and doing small repairs plus window shopping for parts will teach you just about everything you've asked for here.
And when you get into some sort of specific jam, then you'll find folks here who are very happy to give advice and help.
Best of luck to you.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 15, 2018 11:35:22 GMT -5
to add a bit...
1 no interval specified. replace if cracked or leaking. 2 when worn too thin. you will have to remove & inspect to determine replacement style 3 check that the 'hub' on the front wheel axle two-tabbed piece is not bent 4 remove plastics to acces & remove the sender in the tank, move the float manually check resistance check the fuse & power on the red wire, and black(?) wire(switched) feeding cluster 5 bounce on them and check for rebound and settle after 1 bounce. 6 check the voltage being supplied, and the bulb for being proper wattage. 35w/35w is very common
If you spin the front wheel, the speedo should show some actitivy. You can check the hub first, or remove plastics and check the speedo cable turning when you spin the front wheel at the meter end. You may have a power problem affecting the lights & gauge. tom
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Post by katt on Apr 16, 2018 20:04:31 GMT -5
to add a bit... 2 when worn too thin. you will have to remove & inspect to determine replacement style Thank you for replay. For brake pads rear and front i meant more is there preferred brand and material for pads, i see there is red and green pads are they better than regular? What i don't like about scooter is when i brake it tends to fold the front springs and lean the front down if i used read brake it would not do it, but drums are not as efficient as rotors. 7. Can i convert rear brake from drum to rotor? Any kit available or i got to salvage from another bike?
I assume need get rim that accepts brake disk also, does it worth the hassle for 49cc?
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Post by ThaiGyro on Apr 17, 2018 3:56:49 GMT -5
Hey katt, you ask a great question, or set of questions. There is more personal preference than one set of facts to answer your questions. Many ways to go...front brake hose? If you see cracks, it's done. Worth the money for braided steel outer liners. Pad type? I like soft, but Thailand is hot and wet. Sintered pads have tiny copper or aluminum shavings, usually last longer and are quieter.
My take on your notion of efficiency: Disc brakes versus drums in terms of stopping power is based on actual surface area and the pad/shoe friction abilities. That means a disc is not really more efficient for stopping your bike by itself. I know, that is confusing. The disc pads are self adjusting. Which is why they need constant inspection.
Think about stopping and how YOU prefer to do that. Your front brake will allow more stopping power than your rear, regardless of whether it's a drum or disc. The bigger the rotor/caliper or drum/shoe the more available energy. Drums will retain more heat, especially if used too much or too heavy. The heat cannot dissipate as easy because there is simply more mass. I have had no issues with my Yamaha rear drum. Manual adjuster, which I like. My scoot is 4 years old, over 5000km, front disc pad might make another 1000, the rear shoe...probably sell the scoot first.
I said this just recently in another thread: I start braking with my front, then supplement with the rear. Getting back off the brakes, I ease off rear first, then front.
My suggestion is to first get your front and rear suspension tuned and working to your liking. No good brake can stop well with mushy forks/shocks. They put stains in your shorts. Suspension is a big, even more complicated topic. Do it first, really.
When you feel that handling is good under all conditions, you can improve braking. (Which will again, further tax your suspension) Keep in mind, your tires are an important part of your suspension. Skinny tires? Less contact patch on the ground, fatter/bigger diameter has more contact. Too much brake for your tire condition? Rash on your ass, arms...you get it. The easiest thing to tune is your tire pressure. Softer than normal a few pounds means safer braking, harder than normal means more potential for "losing it" under hard braking, but better rolling resistance.
Disc brakes are cool looking, but spending big cash to "upgrade" for looks is wasted money to me. Rear drum brakes will stop just fine, if used in combination with the front properly. If drums were shit, then why do 95+ percent of big rigs use drums? The answer is expense, (Cheaper) and durability. (Last way longer) They have no problem stopping. In some opinions, maintenance is easier. Hmmm, not so sure. On a scooter, both are quite easy.
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Post by katt on May 1, 2018 21:13:43 GMT -5
1. How can i tell rear brake is adjusted properly? What i currently have when i depress rear brake scooter would not move just rpm going up however when scooter in motion rear brake alone would not stop it unless i release the throttle.
2. My scooter takes off after 4000+ RPM is that normal?
3. How many degrees gas throttle supposed to travel to accelerate in my case i have to move it a lot to start and still plenty to maintain speed.
4. How you supposed to remember to release throttle brake using front brake, i tend to always forget and then braking is not efficient. I mean literally when i see danger i brake instantly and its counter intuitive to let go the hand bar.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 2, 2018 12:04:06 GMT -5
You adjust until you have brakes applying when you move the handlebar lever a bit. You want some clearance, but tight enough to apply the brakes firmly when you pull on the lever. The lever should not 'bottom out' against the handle bar when pulled strongly. There should be a little more 'room' left. Take off rpm depends on the clutch springs installed. The rpm sounds about right. Rotate the throttle control until it starts to move, then move further to accelerate. Adjust to meet the speed you desire. Riding and applying the brakes takes practice. Try riding in an empty parking lot, and use a marker on the pavement, such as a parking space line, as a point for YOU to apply the brakes fully. Turn around and do it again until you are comfortable pulling on the levers. If you cannot apply the brakes without removing your hand from the handlebar, maybe you need to have the lever adjusted so it is closer. The 'heel' of your hand should remain on the handlebar as you reach for the brake lever. tom
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Post by katt on May 2, 2018 17:08:59 GMT -5
If i hold gas with entire hand i seem to forget about gas and reach for the brake right away at the first sign of danger. I tried something different, i put both hand straight (as with bicycle) and then only use thumb and index fingers (red on picture) to hold gas leaver and rest of the hand is lose. So in order to reach the brake leaver i got to first return my hand in default position thus turning off the gas.
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Post by benji on May 2, 2018 21:22:23 GMT -5
If i hold gas with entire hand i seem to forget about gas and reach for the brake right away at the first sign of danger. I tried something different, i put both hand straight (as with bicycle) and then only use thumb and index fingers (red on picture) to hold gas leaver and rest of the hand is lose. So in order to reach the brake leaver i got to first return my hand in default position thus turning off the gas. your learning the secrets haha.
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Post by jackrides on May 3, 2018 11:20:40 GMT -5
I've found that holding the throttle with thumb, ring and pinkie fingers and braking with index and middle fingers gives best control. That will also help prevent grabbing the front too hard and locking the wheel which almost always results in a crash. I also use very little free play in throttle and levers. Some free play is essential. GrumpyUnk posts great advice.
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Post by jackrides on May 3, 2018 11:41:01 GMT -5
Scoot is at about 8K miles, no brake replacements yet. Speedo: Is the cable screwed into the speedo unit? If so, unscrew it, then spin the front wheel and see if the inner cable turns. If so, bad speedo. Fuel gauge wiring can be done a few ways. 12 volts comes from the harness, goes thru the gauge and the sensor (which varies resistance according to fuel level) and ground. Those could be in most any order. You can use either use a 12 volt test light or a meter to figure it out. Make notes (wire color, connection, voltage) with each test sequence to keep it straight.
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Post by cagiva4ever on May 3, 2018 15:36:53 GMT -5
if OP's scooter is the1 in his Avatar, being "Yiying MTX-5" or XTR50. it has specific very big many pages W.S.M for free at web, its the most commonly re-linked re-posted W.S.M in web, titled as: "4-stroke50cc-service-manual.pdf" amotorcyclenut.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/4-stroke50cc-service-manual.pdffor the HeadLight "upgrade": Do not over exeed the Stock wattage if 25/25W or 35/35W. -your stator wont be able to handle more than stock wattage. neither will battery charge...also your headlamp and reflector would meltdown.... if its Bay20d BA20D type, you may look for modern LED bulb with bay20d base. Some of them modern LED bulbs get really hot on the base/heatsink, so cant go "oversize" on them either... And run a better Ground(-) wires for the wiringloom. DIY seal all wire connector blocks if not sealed versions as Stock.
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Post by katt on May 6, 2018 22:35:34 GMT -5
Thanks for all your answers.
One more question about warming up engine, at what temperature do i need to warm up and for how long?
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 7, 2018 7:02:07 GMT -5
The engine is heating from the moment it starts. If you wait a bit, say 30 seconds, after startup, while you tighten you helmet strap and don your gloves, I think that is sufficient for oil to have reached all that needs it and warm enough to drive off gently. Personally, I would not get onto the throttle more than 1/2 until it had ran for at least a minute, maybe a bit more. I have a long drive that leads downhill, so don't get onto the throttle much until the end where it goes uphill to the street. If you have to use the throttle immediately upon getting to the road, as in traffic, then wait a minute after starting the engine before leaving the parking spot. That way you will be less likely to stall or hesitate if you have need for full throttle. In warm weather, the time it takes for helmet strap and gloves is adequate IMO for most warmup, but a bit gentle driving for a minute or so after insures things should be up to temperature(metals, not the lubes). I think. tom
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Post by katt on May 7, 2018 17:08:10 GMT -5
1 minute is is okay previous owner told me like 10 minutes at night time and in the morning, its parked in my backyard tried running 10 minutes before and my entire apartment filled up with exhaust smell tough a window, i imagine me doing it every day will get min trouble with neighbors.
When i started riding today i warm up about minute then drove for a little and went to complete stop i noticed RPM go down and engine cut off and would not start, starter was going pretty good (it felt like there was no fuel or no spark), i wait 2-3 minutes it fired back up, and drove fine rest of the ride could it be it needed to warm up some more or i should check something?
Normally it never does this but this is 2nd time first time this happened was after 15 minute ride it just happened out of the blue.
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