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Post by dexameth on Apr 25, 2018 14:48:09 GMT -5
Yeah, Glixal is just a copy company. They aren't making anything themselves, just buying cheap parts and re-branding them. I mistakenly bought a Glixal belt months ago, and it was cut STRAIGHT on one side, and angled on the other. I installed it unknowingly and it drove, but different. I've seen their clutches first hand, direct copy cat of a Koso clone (I sell true Koso and the quality difference is visible easily).
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 25, 2018 15:23:41 GMT -5
EDIT:
Ugh.. I think for now I'll go with Glixal and stock head. After a while, make the jump to a 52mm or perhaps even attempt dropping in a 150cc motor... with some help.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 26, 2018 8:57:07 GMT -5
I installed a Glixal 47mm and so far have not had any problem. It may be a dud, it may last a long time. I do like the 'grunt' that it provides compared to the 39mm cylinder & piston size. In mid range speed, you can twist the throttle and feel it accelerate. I did inspect very closely for defects in they cylinder, fins, casting porosity, wall finish, piston finish and clearance. I did also have to adjust ring gap. I think I need a new file, or to sharpen all of them. I also have ordered from the Far East, and the packing was terrible for one pair, and excellent for the other single set. The machining on all three was pretty nice, IMO, and the single set had mirror-finish top and bottom of the cylinder. The gasket areas were shiny. Have not installed any yet. My main concern, after inspected quality/defect, was the piston:cylinder wall clearance. If you place the piston in the cylinder, cover the bottom with your hand, and then let the piston slide, I have found the piston will move of its own weight, and gently settle in the 47mm & 44mm cylinders. All had proper valve reliefs cut, proper wrist pin size, clirclips, and the Glixal had valve stem seals. The valve reliefs may be related to 'factory' cam lobes vs 'performance' cam lobe grind. If the performance cam is installed, the valve may open a bit more(lift) or open a bit earlier in the piston stroke(duration). The one 'performance' cam I have seems to have 'fatter' lobes, and should open earlier and close later than the factory grind. More duration == more air pumped in & out == more power per cycle. Why not post side-by-side images of your 3-cylinder collection? It might be informative to see the surface, casting quality, and cylinder wall finish along with the piston crown surface and thrust areas. tom
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 26, 2018 10:04:52 GMT -5
Cool. That is what I am looking for. I would like it to be more responsive from 0 -35. I don't care much about top speed. I don't trust this thing over 40mh.
I don't know what that means. I will google it.
Okay. I only have 2 cylinders right now. The 3rd will be from the Glixal kit and is scheduled for delivery tomorrow.
I only have 2 50mm pistons atm. The other will be from the Glixal kit and the 4th will be the 2nd replacement piston the seller sent with the relief cuts. That is arriving on Monday.
The one on the left is the newest 50mm jug that came with the replacement piston (13mm wrist pin).
On the right is the first jug I received that came with the wrong piston (14mm wrist pin).
Not too detailed of a video but it should be enough to show if there are any problem areas that need detailed photos.
The 2 50mm pistons. The one with the rings in it is the one with the 14mm wrist pin.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 27, 2018 9:49:19 GMT -5
I should have said "adjust ring END gap". As the rings are inserted into the cylinder, and then straightened or aligned using the piston inserted upside down so they rings are 'square' in the cylinder, you can check the gap between the ends of the ring. (one at a time) There ia a post on the site in the 'calculators' section(?) that explains the gap desired. Too little a gap, and the rings will self-destroy by being forced by heat expansion into the cylinder walls. To large a gap, and combustion gases will sneak through reducing compression, efficiency and power level.(also adding contaminant to the lube oil). In 4T engines, the bottom set, two scrapers and a separator in most recent designs, are not measured nor adjusted. The top ring has less gap than the second, and I have no idea why. See the calculator, of do a web search for the 'formula' or 'practice' which ballparks to ".00x gap for each 1" of piston diameter", which I did not memorize. For a 47mm, I used .007" and .009" for top and 2nd ring, IIRC. CHECK! tom
Watched the cylinder video, but it was rather dark on my screen. The little I observed indicated to me, an amateur, that there was a decent job done in the manufacture and machining. The top and bottom surfaces were very nicely finished. Actually better than what I got with the one I installed, and better than the pair from another vendor that arrived chunked and dinged(poor packaging). The last arrived so well packed I did not want to open it. The inside packing was excellent. I commended the vendor and his/her packing crew. The gasket surfaces on that cylinder were mirror like, bottom and top. The other two were not so well finiahed. As I remember from years ago, the Honda parts I was fiddling with also had 'mirror' gasket surfaces, but I cannot remember more than that. The PO had a 'mechanic' install a large BBK. He installed the piston upside down. (IN at the bottom) He also decided that the air cleaner assembly was not needed, and used a foam (dry) element only. Additionally, the shrouding to duct cooling air from the blower housing was deemed unnecessary. All the preceding resulting in compression equal to a beercan in a downspout. Well, better than that, but not by much. The head gasket was blown, leaving carbon traces towards the cam chain area, and a little of the head gasket missing. I used some abrasive to check the surface, and it was warped, esp near the chain chamber. I ground the whole surface using about 3 sheets of 220 so I guess the compression ratio is even higher. It starts and runs nicely. I also cleaned up the valves and installed new valve stem seals. I may need to re-adjust the valves as the 'correct' adjustment values were contradictory and I had no real idea what was/is proper. This was the Glixal set, and so far, so good. When I first started it, there was a lot of heat. I think the rings were 'learning about their new home' and creating more friction than normal. It has since run a lot cooler as far as I can tell. Zoom zoom zoom. tom
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 27, 2018 10:24:20 GMT -5
TBH, I never ordered parts like this before. Only electronic / PC related items. When I saw the scuffs on these parts, I thought they may have been used. XD
Way back in the day when I'd order performance parts for 2 stroke dirt bikes from magazines, all of it arrived packaged nicely and the parts looked fresh and new. I think the only thing I installed myself was a pipe and handlebars. Everything else went to the shop. XD
I'll try figuring out the ring gap but I am new at this. The only tools I have for wrenching on this scoot is a socket set, bent needle nose pliers, a crescent wrench set, the valve adjustment too, feeler gauges, torque wrench, and a multi-tip screw driver. It all fits in the small cardboard box and were purchased over the last few days. Things like sandpaper, wire brushes, I don't have any of that yet. I do have lots of tiny tools but they don't fit anything on the tao tao.
The Glixal kit was supposed to arrive today but it is not even in this state according to USPS. But the piston with the relief cuts is out for deliver so i will have a BBK and head to install today.
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 27, 2018 23:21:11 GMT -5
So I am checking out this replacement head. Woah, it is shit tier quality. imgur.com/a/57mxhjbEven though the seller of this kit sent out a 2nd jug with a 2nd piston (that was still the wrong piston) then sent out, 3rd piston (corect one), and some freebies along way, (extra gasket kits, a CDI, a hot orange plug, ignition coil, and a 6 pole stator, there is no way in hell I would install this or his (correct) piston and jug. The Glixal kit can't come soon enough. BTW when i questioned the seller about the flat-top piston he had sent, he said they were okay because, "They are designed with a shorter compression height than stock or dished BBK pistons." He was completely full of shit. The flat-top piston he sent has a TALLER compression height! Flat-top on left dished on right with a 13mm wrist pin connecting them.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 28, 2018 9:51:26 GMT -5
Wonder what that piston(on the left) is designed for? I don't think I'd use it in a 139qmb. I think the skirt might hit the crankshaft weights at the bottom of the stroke. I think the geometry of the crankshaft, connecting rod and piston indicate a longer stroke than the piston on the right. Not a clue as to application. Maybe a generator or water pump or compressor engine? tom
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Post by mrkswthwrth on Apr 28, 2018 11:53:51 GMT -5
My replacement head was the same, i went to town with a set of files. Cleaned the ports up, fins, and took a piece of sandpaper and glued it to a pane of glass and resurfaced the mating surface. Go to walmart and grab a set of small files for like 5 bucks and youll be able to gap the rings too.
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 28, 2018 15:24:05 GMT -5
Wonder what that piston(on the left) is designed for? Valve smashing.
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 28, 2018 16:38:22 GMT -5
My replacement head was the same, i went to town with a set of files. Cleaned the ports up, fins, and took a piece of sandpaper and glued it to a pane of glass and resurfaced the mating surface. Go to walmart and grab a set of small files for like 5 bucks and youll be able to gap the rings too. I checked out some info on gap-ing the rings. You put the ring in the jug then check the gap with a feeler gauge. Then use the file on the ring to take off some metal and make the gap larger. Is that correct? How big should the gap be?
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Post by mrkswthwrth on Apr 28, 2018 20:08:15 GMT -5
Yepp, check out the 4t tech section, 90GTVert had an awesome post detailing a bbk install and it includes a formula to figure out ring end gap based on bore size.
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 28, 2018 20:53:42 GMT -5
Yepp, check out the 4t tech section, 90GTVert had an awesome post detailing a bbk install and it includes a formula to figure out ring end gap based on bore size. Cool. I guess there is a calculator for it on the site. www.49ccscoot.com/calculators.htmlIt gave these results Cool! So that is fir the top ring and the middle ring right? Not that bottom groove with 3 rings combined...
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 28, 2018 21:35:59 GMT -5
Correct.
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Post by scootnewb on Apr 28, 2018 22:35:56 GMT -5
Just making sure.
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