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Post by tocoo on Aug 1, 2018 6:22:00 GMT -5
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 1, 2018 12:29:38 GMT -5
I am lost in this thread, but. There's a youtube of someone using an adjustable wrench on the clutch nut. He turns the adjustment tight until the wrench stays of its own accord, then whacks the wrench handle against the ground while holding the clutch assembly in his hands. The impact of the wrench hitting the ground appeared to be enough to break the nut loose. Watch, and be sure to have the wrench handle on the 'loosen' side of the nut when bashing. Unless he rigged the nut, it looked to be an effective method. No need for a 38/39mm socket. And, BTW, if using a socket what do you hold the clutch carrier with to keep it from turning?
tom
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 1, 2018 12:33:10 GMT -5
When I was cleaning the CVT, I found the clutch bell & gizzards made noise when spun with the belt removed. I checked the needle bearing, and fingered in a dab of grease onto the needles. The noise went away. At that time, I did not dissect the clutch assembly. I did use a file on the friction material on the clutch shoes to remove a layer of gray 'stuff' that was smooth. It works, but likely needs some internal cleaning and lube as the contra was very difficult to compress leading me to think the 'ramps' were in need of attention. It never ends. tom
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Aug 1, 2018 13:12:31 GMT -5
I am lost in this thread, but. There's a youtube of someone using an adjustable wrench on the clutch nut. He turns the adjustment tight until the wrench stays of its own accord, then whacks the wrench handle against the ground while holding the clutch assembly in his hands. The impact of the wrench hitting the ground appeared to be enough to break the nut loose. Watch, and be sure to have the wrench handle on the 'loosen' side of the nut when bashing. Unless he rigged the nut, it looked to be an effective method. No need for a 38/39mm socket. And, BTW, if using a socket what do you hold the clutch carrier with to keep it from turning? tom I saw that same video, or a similar one, a few years back and that was the method I was using until I bought a socket for my impact for $9. It actually worked really well but, it is a bit hard on the hands as those nuts are really on there. I used a little bit of blue locktite when putting them back on just to be safe. Of course, now with the impact...it is a 2 second operation. Bill
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Post by tocoo on Aug 2, 2018 5:35:55 GMT -5
I cleaned the pulley and cleaned the pads. There was no noise this time, it was perfect....but ofc something else came up : there was rattle during the idle. So I took the variator off and assemble it again. I went back on the road and the friction sound was here again but this time no rattle at idle.... THis time I wanted to see if the needle bearing was involved in the friction, so I greased it again. THe sound was still here. The pads are again a bit glazed....
I ordered a new belt, this time the exact bando model+dimension of the stock belt. I do not understand why the glazing occurs out of the blue, since the clutch was fine for so long and the bando belt installed by the official mechanics has the dimension of the stock belt....
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Post by tocoo on Aug 7, 2018 7:40:17 GMT -5
I have my new belt. it makes way less friction sound, especially at high speed, so this is good news. I think it is like with the original belt. There is still glazing though and I think i will change the whole clutch. THere is a o-ring inside the fixed flange, just after the needle bearing, that is a destroyed for 1/3 .
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 7, 2018 12:19:07 GMT -5
The O-ring is there to minimize lubricant for the needle bearing escaping onto the clutch bits, the belt, and the rest of the things inside the CVT cover. If it is where I think it is. Not super critical, but replacing it is something that you might want to investigate. Check with HF for their selection. They stock two or three different varieties of O-rings. Or check with a parts source. The surfaces that the belt rides against will all get polished over time. If the belt is good, there should be enough tension it doesn't matter. If you think it is more polished than 'normal', then replacement is one course of action. You could also use things such as Scotch-brite pads to dull the surface and remove the shiny. That may or may not help belt grip. I do not know for sure. tom
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Post by tocoo on Aug 8, 2018 2:21:02 GMT -5
I watched a video by 90VET to replace the bearings and the o-rings of the clutch, but I have not the tools required. THis is why I favor the purchase of a new one.
I also checked the flanges but they are not glazed, I may sand them, but what grade should be used, should it be a gross grade like 120 or a fine grade like 1000 ?
After I message yesterday, I checked the prices for a full generic bell+clutch and it is already 50 euros. I checked for the pulley and a racing pulley is already 45euros, the racing pads are 30 euros and the racing bell is 30 euros. I did not expect such high prices...
Anyway, yesterday was the last day of the heat wave and there was minimal noise on the second ride. This morning was 17 degrees less than yesterday and the noise is here especially at the beginning. But the noise is minimal so it is no longer a displeasure to ride the scooter. If I manage to sell my current clutch, I will buy a new one for sure.
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Post by tocoo on Aug 10, 2018 10:18:29 GMT -5
well this afternoon, the noise came back at acceleration and cruise, like it never went away. I ordered the racing parts for a new clutch and I will first swap only the pads to see if they are the cause of this.
how many miles the pads are supposed to last on the 50cc?
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 10, 2018 10:37:45 GMT -5
If you are concerned that the clutch friction surfaces are glazed, and slipping, then get out a file, and use it on the glazed surface. I just 'touched up' the three shoes to see if it made the clutch engage differently. I have no measurements to verify, but it felt as if it was working a little better. Nothing particularly wrong with the performance, except I felt it was revving a bit too much before engagement. I just ran the file over the surface of each shoe, and put it back together. If you were in USA, you could order a complete clutch assembly and replace every part for less than some of the performance or 'racing' parts you listed. I know of no racing association for these critters. Is there one? Or, is the 'racing' description a marketing ploy? tom
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