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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 11, 2018 17:17:17 GMT -5
My rear brake is very strong, and when i press it the engine rpms drop down to lowere than idle, can that be the cause to why my engine blew up?
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Post by 'O'Verse on Jul 11, 2018 21:24:18 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc.
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 11, 2018 23:39:41 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc. it's a drum brake, what i thought was when i press the rear brake the engine just wants to shut off and the rpms quickly drop down to approximately 1500, and if i wanna go again i have to give it gas and it kinda jumps for some reason, maybe something that has to do with the variator
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 11, 2018 23:40:44 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc. and btw no 2 stroke 50 cc jogs have rear disk brakes
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Post by Lucass2T on Jul 12, 2018 5:38:02 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc. Dude, didn't you know engines seize up when you use the brake? You can cure it though. Buy some powerbands and put them in the fuel tank. Also, Malossi sells little bags of super high voltage sparks, they also might help. The blue sparks are the strongest and for racing engines, red ones are for stock motors. Hope it helps.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 12, 2018 8:14:06 GMT -5
I think going back to basics is called for. If your are experiencing strange engine issues upon braking, I think you may simply have a CVT problem...Adjust and go! Seems as though your drive end is not quite matched to the clutch end. Many ways that can happen.
Before you spend money chasing ghosts...(you must have a tach?) *check you rear brake for binding...should allow free spin off throttle *check your ignition system for bad wires
Your engine cannot blow up from braking...but it can be tuned improperly for your driving.
Another test...and my long time recommendation: Learn to use your front brake WITH you rear...IMO the front is applied first (to load suspension) with the rear supporting your effort.
The test? Get to speed on a straight road and slow using only the front brake...any difference? If yes, meaning no engine problems, then You must have CVT tuning issues.
Tuning is learning...
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Jul 12, 2018 9:20:30 GMT -5
Also, after performing the front brake only test as suggested by ThaiGyro if it still does it this could also mean your float level is a bit too high and the g-forces of stopping sloshes extra fuel into the combustion chamber that is not needed nor wanted. If this happens to you while sitting still and you pull the brake handle, then you have another issue entirely and can ignore what I just said.
Bill
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Post by snaker on Jul 12, 2018 9:24:47 GMT -5
A certain amount of that effect is always in play, its called engine braking. The clutch is engaged only by the engine rpm. The clutch disengagement is controlled by the engine and the rear wheel. Even if you drop the throttle, the drive wheel will keep the clutch spinning above disengagement rpm. When using the rear brake modestly the CVT has time to down shift so as not to be so noticeable. The driven pulley's Torque Sensing function comes into play to force some quicker downshifting to help keep up to the deceleration. If you do a brake lockup or close, your not allowing the CVT enough time to downshift to below disengagement rpm's. It would be like mashing the brake on a manual shift motorcycle without using the clutch lever. Your second post gives indication of a sticking CVT - time to do some maintenance or pay someone to do it.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jul 12, 2018 9:37:08 GMT -5
Confirm engine rpm with a tach, if idle speed is too low the extra load of the brake light may bring the rpm down.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 13, 2018 0:49:41 GMT -5
snaker...great and simple explanation.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Jul 13, 2018 7:14:35 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc. and btw no 2 stroke 50 cc jogs have rear disk brakes I wouldn’t say no.... Maybe in stock form...
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 19, 2018 21:39:44 GMT -5
I think going back to basics is called for. If your are experiencing strange engine issues upon braking, I think you may simply have a CVT problem...Adjust and go! Seems as though your drive end is not quite matched to the clutch end. Many ways that can happen. Before you spend money chasing ghosts...(you must have a tach?) *check you rear brake for binding...should allow free spin off throttle *check your ignition system for bad wires Your engine cannot blow up from braking...but it can be tuned improperly for your driving. Another test...and my long time recommendation: Learn to use your front brake WITH you rear...IMO the front is applied first (to load suspension) with the rear supporting your effort. The test? Get to speed on a straight road and slow using only the front brake...any difference? If yes, meaning no engine problems, then You must have CVT tuning issues. Tuning is learning... i did try what you told me and i got to 60 kmh and i slowed down using only the front brake, ( i rebuilt the engine) the engine rpms got lower and lower until i stopped and it idled well, but now if i use the rear brake only the engine almost immediately when i press the brake and the tires lock up, imma try making the brake a bit looser, maybe that helps, if it doesn't I'll look into the cvt
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 19, 2018 21:40:58 GMT -5
Depending on what year your model jog is. Your rear break is either a cable and drum or disc and caliper. I highly doubt and have never heard of a rear brake blowing up a motor. Even if your rear brake caught fire. It'd be a minute or two before it reached your cylinder. Usually when a motor blows it's from an air leak, no oil or improper lubrication, bad jetting, or bad ignition timing, etc. Dude, didn't you know engines seize up when you use the brake? You can cure it though. Buy some powerbands and put them in the fuel tank. Also, Malossi sells little bags of super high voltage sparks, they also might help. The blue sparks are the strongest and for racing engines, red ones are for stock motors. Hope it helps. funny dude
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 19, 2018 21:42:28 GMT -5
Also, after performing the front brake only test as suggested by ThaiGyro if it still does it this could also mean your float level is a bit too high and the g-forces of stopping sloshes extra fuel into the combustion chamber that is not needed nor wanted. If this happens to you while sitting still and you pull the brake handle, then you have another issue entirely and can ignore what I just said. Bill carburetor is perfectly tuned now after i rebuilt it
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Post by hamodyjog on Jul 19, 2018 21:44:42 GMT -5
A certain amount of that effect is always in play, its called engine braking. The clutch is engaged only by the engine rpm. The clutch disengagement is controlled by the engine and the rear wheel. Even if you drop the throttle, the drive wheel will keep the clutch spinning above disengagement rpm. When using the rear brake modestly the CVT has time to down shift so as not to be so noticeable. The driven pulley's Torque Sensing function comes into play to force some quicker downshifting to help keep up to the deceleration. If you do a brake lockup or close, your not allowing the CVT enough time to downshift to below disengagement rpm's. It would be like mashing the brake on a manual shift motorcycle without using the clutch lever. Your second post gives indication of a sticking CVT - time to do some maintenance or pay someone to do it. thinking of buying new clutches because mine are kinda worn, should i?
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