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Post by gsx600racer on Aug 8, 2018 23:54:58 GMT -5
Some here know I am current in the middle of a L/C build. I have several questions. Coolant suggestions ? Auxiliary electric fan: Manual or thermally controlled switch ? Electric water pump: Always on or thermally controlled switch ? Thermostat or free flowing/restricted(washer):(cylinder I have has provision for it, but my outlet fitting mat not support it.) My thoughts: Water pump: I got a Prius invert pump. This thing pumps water like crazy(I thing too much for my application) @ 12v it draws 1.7A under load. I Also ran at lower voltages. See Video. Current draw on left LCD, Voltage on right LCD. I was thinking of putting 2 way toggle switch in and on position it would be at full voltage and the the position at a reduced voltage. basically a high/low setup. I was considering using a buck converter to reduce the voltage. I understand this this pump uses a brushless design and there is a controller board that runs the motor. I am not comfortable running the motor at lower than 12v. I think these motors could probably run at a slightly lower voltage.(figuring if the car had a weak battery). I do like the fact at lower voltage the current draw is lower. Electric fan. I played with a couple fans. One was from a PC power supply(blue) The black one was from on of those mosquito magnet. Its a 12v fan, but was being ran @ 6v. This moves a lot of air @ 12v and my choice to use. I would also like to do a high/low option with the fan too. My goal is to stay under 2 amp draw total, Id prefer to be in the 1.25 - 1.5 range. (I feel like I am working for NASA working on a solution getting Apollo 13 back home) |
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Post by Jwhood on Aug 9, 2018 6:39:40 GMT -5
I ran l.c on my Tgb and this is just my 2 cents on it,I didn't run a fan I used a Bosch water pump and a kx 85 rad never had an over heat issue I'm in Maryland so it gets humid and hot in summer.I didn't run a switch I had my ran to come on soon as I started up the scooter I usually ran 140-155 underload like hills but never got much beyond that,if I ain't mistaking my draw from pump was around 1.7-2.0 amps I never had any over heating issue even stopped and idle for a while even on crazy hot days
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 9, 2018 7:36:10 GMT -5
I'm using MotoChill by BelRay, but mostly because that's what's in the TMAX and it's non-toxic so I just used it for the Triton as well. Prob cheaper to just use the standard ethylene glycol or propylene glycol antifreeze in a 50/50 mix with water. You could just use water and an additive for corrosion protection and lubrication. Distilled water preferred. Auxiliary electric fan: Manual or thermally controlled switch ? How about both? This is what I did so it will come on at about 180F without my input or I can turn it on myself earlier or in case of a malfunction.  Electric water pump: Always on or thermally controlled switch ? Most go with always on, triggered by key on. Unless there's some reason that you'd be leaving your ignition on without the engine running for long periods of time, you wouldn't want the pump off. If you do that, then I guess you could just put a switch in the system that you normally leave on. These pumps can be quiet compared to the engine and exhaust so they'd be easy enough to forget to switch on till temps started rising. Thermostat or free flowing/restricted(washer):(cylinder I have has provision for it, but my outlet fitting mat not support it.) Free flowing is the norm. You want to keep it as cool as you can for the most part. People aim for as low as 120F with these, but that's not likely to happen as your max temp unless maybe you ride in cold weather. The fan should not be a substantial draw because it shouldn't come on that often. I rode one hot day for something like 9 hours (full report in T2 build thread if you're interested, as well as all sorts of LC info from recent months). The fan never came on. Hottest I saw that day was 154F from being on the highway for a few. It actually cooled sitting still. I have 2 large radiators with nothing at all to shroud them, so it may vary. I used a 4" puller SPAL fan because it was meant for the elements and meant to be attached to the radiator, but others have used PC fans successfully. You can find some specs for various water pump flow and amp ratings in my build thread. I did a little testing with what I had and looked up some stuff. 190mech found info claiming that basically you need about 1 liter per min per HP, so if you have 15HP you should try to get a pump capable of 15L/min. If you can work out what's needed for switching the voltage to change flow and draw, it'll prob work to keep it cool at idle or low throttle cruising without the great demand on the battery when the charging system isn't putting out as much. Could also be interesting to find out how much difference you see for flow numbers and temps with it at different levels. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/331326/threadIf you are going to put much load on the system with a beefy pump, you could consider a full wave charging system conversion. If it's just a quick trip or toy kinda scoot, then it won't matter so much. |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Aug 10, 2018 7:19:32 GMT -5
Guys at Napa recommended G-05 coolant for Aluminum two stroke cylinders. If your cylinders not aluminum I wouldn't worry about it. As far as a fan goes. That depends on your radiator set up. I'm using two yz250 size radiators. So my temps only reach about 160 degrees on a really hot day. Pump I like to have it wired so it's guaranteed running constant with the bike. Either battery or key. No switch. Don't want to forget to turn on the switch or accidentally flip the switch off while riding. No thermostat. Just free flowing fluid all the time. Your pumps pressure looks good. My rc-one is battery operated. (Water pump and cluster) So right now I could get atleast a 20-30 minute ride in before thinking about a recharge.
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Post by gsx600racer on Aug 15, 2018 0:16:00 GMT -5
Thanks everyone, I have a lot to think about.
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Post by gsx600racer on Aug 23, 2018 20:57:03 GMT -5
Iv been thinking about this for awhile and wanted to test it out.
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Post by gsx600racer on Aug 26, 2018 2:11:51 GMT -5
I did some testing with the Prius heater water pump I got from 90GTVert. I fill the bucket with 4 gallons of water with marks @ every gallon. I ran this test several times and the results were pretty consistent. I got a gallon every 15 seconds give or take a few tenths. So we are talking 4 gallons per minute. The current draw varied which i'm still trying to wrap my head around why. Power was supplied from a fully charged 12v battery booster with a SLA battery. The pick up on the pump had a L bend that rested at the bottom of the bucket Current draw on left LCD, Voltage on right LCD. When the video stops, that's approximately 2 gallons.(if you want to time it) As for the varying current, I used a bench power supply that's capable of 20v dc @ 2 amp. I was able apply more voltage which made the pump run faster. So I don't think there's electronics inside that controls/limits the speed of the pump by varying voltage/current.  |
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shoom
Scoot Member
Posts: 42 
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Post by shoom on Feb 17, 2019 7:45:17 GMT -5
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Post by 2smokeruck on Feb 18, 2019 17:13:40 GMT -5
I ended up getting the Trail Tech fan kit thats controlled by a digital gauge. You set the temp at which you want the fan to come on which is pretty cool. Comes with a fin sensor but i plan on getting an inline water sensor for it. Dont know when i'll finally put it to use but hey i have it lol.
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