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Post by dexameth on Nov 27, 2018 8:57:31 GMT -5
The camshaft does look to be compatible. Specs on other websites show it very close to the SSP-G cam that I currently use. It does open up low end power. As for the rockers, the Naraku kit uses the shorter 64mm valves, so you'll need option A.
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ratdog
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 342
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Post by ratdog on Nov 30, 2018 2:00:03 GMT -5
Dexameth, you have mentioned your cam has more duration then stock. Can you tell me what the duration is at a . 005” lift?
Thanks!
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Post by dexameth on Dec 3, 2018 9:30:54 GMT -5
Dexameth, you have mentioned your cam has more duration then stock. Can you tell me what the duration is at a . 005” lift? Thanks! I don't have the tools to measure the lobes, unfortunately. Sorry dude!
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Post by scootboy87 on Dec 4, 2018 21:14:22 GMT -5
Is there a consensus on cooling fans, I'm reading a lot of conflicting information, some people say most of the after market cooling fans are less effective than the stock one, others say aftermarket fans are better. Are there any that have been tried, tested and agreed upon to outperform stock? Thanks.
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Post by dexameth on Dec 5, 2018 8:59:53 GMT -5
Is there a consensus on cooling fans, I'm reading a lot of conflicting information, some people say most of the after market cooling fans are less effective than the stock one, others say aftermarket fans are better. Are there any that have been tried, tested and agreed upon to outperform stock? Thanks. "Turbo" cooling fans have a less amount of cooling fins to allow a motor to spin up faster, you know, less resistance. This does mean less cooling. They are known to come apart at high RPMs as well. There are better cooling fans on the market, I run this OKO cooling fan. The fins on this fan are actually taller than a stock fan AND the fins have a "backwards" direction. The direction of the fins actually create a low pressure behind the fins when spinning, this low draws in more air throwing a more dense air over the motor. If you don't want chrome, check this SSP-G Cooling Fan out.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Dec 5, 2018 14:28:24 GMT -5
The image of the SSP-G fan is shaded such that it is difficult to see clearly. Of note is that some of the fan 'blades' are longer than the others, protruding into the hub area more. My mental image of how blower wheels work is confused by blades that are oriented in the opposite direction. I thought that all squirrel cage blower wheels produced a 'low pressure' area in their hub, and pulled in air from outside, pushing it through between the blades into a 'volute'(?) that formed the airflow into a unidirectional flow. The blower wheels used in forced air HVAC air handlers to push the heated/cooled air through the ductwork will not work as well if they are allowed full access to 'room air'. They need some obstruction to work properly. I do not understand that part... I do know that a blower will speed up if air intake is blocked as it is no longer pumping or moving air, just trying to pump air that has already been pushed out, i.e., there's little airflow coming in, so there's little to push out. Same is also true of the cooling fans used in computer cases. Cover the fan inlet side, and the wheel starts spinning faster. I would not mind giving more cooling, but am not sure that any of these improve the flow. And again, I don't understand how blades oriented in the opposite direction could work??? tom
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 5, 2018 14:33:33 GMT -5
The image of the SSP-G fan is shaded such that it is difficult to see clearly. Of note is that some of the fan 'blades' are longer than the others, protruding into the hub area more. My mental image of how blower wheels work is confused by blades that are oriented in the opposite direction. I thought that all squirrel cage blower wheels produced a 'low pressure' area in their hub, and pulled in air from outside, pushing it through between the blades into a 'volute'(?) that formed the airflow into a unidirectional flow. The blower wheels used in forced air HVAC air handlers to push the heated/cooled air through the ductwork will not work as well if they are allowed full access to 'room air'. They need some obstruction to work properly. I do not understand that part... I do know that a blower will speed up if air intake is blocked as it is no longer pumping or moving air, just trying to pump air that has already been pushed out, i.e., there's little airflow coming in, so there's little to push out. Same is also true of the cooling fans used in computer cases. Cover the fan inlet side, and the wheel starts spinning faster. I would not mind giving more cooling, but am not sure that any of these improve the flow. And again, I don't understand how blades oriented in the opposite direction could work??? tom That is a very difficult picture, I agree. I'll get that updated pronto, thanks for the feedback. Additionally, I'm not going to pretend to know how this fan works, I just know that it does make a notable difference over stock. Matt
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Post by scootboy87 on Dec 5, 2018 15:09:41 GMT -5
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Post by dexameth on Dec 5, 2018 15:45:25 GMT -5
The image of the SSP-G fan is shaded such that it is difficult to see clearly. Of note is that some of the fan 'blades' are longer than the others, protruding into the hub area more. My mental image of how blower wheels work is confused by blades that are oriented in the opposite direction. I thought that all squirrel cage blower wheels produced a 'low pressure' area in their hub, and pulled in air from outside, pushing it through between the blades into a 'volute'(?) that formed the airflow into a unidirectional flow. The blower wheels used in forced air HVAC air handlers to push the heated/cooled air through the ductwork will not work as well if they are allowed full access to 'room air'. They need some obstruction to work properly. I do not understand that part... I do know that a blower will speed up if air intake is blocked as it is no longer pumping or moving air, just trying to pump air that has already been pushed out, i.e., there's little airflow coming in, so there's little to push out. Same is also true of the cooling fans used in computer cases. Cover the fan inlet side, and the wheel starts spinning faster. I would not mind giving more cooling, but am not sure that any of these improve the flow. And again, I don't understand how blades oriented in the opposite direction could work??? tom Centrifugal force will toss the air off the fan blades no matter their direction, and the movement of that air "escaping" the fan blades will then cause the draw of more air from... well the only place it can. Look at a stock fan's orientation. It kinda scoops the air then throws it out merely with centrifugal force. The OKO and SSP-G fans have the fins in the opposite orientation as stock... and this is my hypothesis: that direction of the fin will create a low on the "back side" of the spinning fan blade like an airplane's wing does. Not EXACTLY like an airplane's wing, but as the air is being drawn over that fan blade and pushed away from the centrifugal force, there is now a greater low happening behind those blades. With this greater low, more "suction" will occur drawing more air into the fan in turn throwing more air. Again, this is just my theory. Sounds legit, right?
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Post by diynuke on Dec 10, 2018 14:59:21 GMT -5
I would say meassure the voltage. And maybe you can fit another battery somewhere? My grand retro has 4batteries now. Otherwise it also wouldnt crank over But yeah you could try bigger wires. But i think it wont help that much
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Post by scootboy87 on Dec 10, 2018 21:52:47 GMT -5
Thanks nuke, I will try and bump the starter directly from the battery with some heavy cable, if this doesn't work, can I wire my original battery with my new one in paralell, even if they have a different amp rating?
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Dec 11, 2018 13:43:28 GMT -5
Maybe wiring two batteries in series go get higher voltage might be more effective. You would be driving a DC motor with higher than normal voltage, but for a very short period of time. It can be effective, but duration is a question. Providing series voltage to the 'input' side of the starter relay would double crank voltage and should leave the rest of the system at normal if you wire the + terminal to the system separate from the relay + terminal. It might take some more thought... but you could try series voltage and see how well the starter took the voltage. It should spin stronger. But it would not be good if you had to crank for more than a few seconds. Most starter motors are designed to be operated in 'overload' conditions, not 'continuous service' conditions. They will overheat if run for any length of time. tom
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Post by islandscrub on Dec 12, 2018 14:40:45 GMT -5
Is there a consensus on cooling fans, I'm reading a lot of conflicting information, some people say most of the after market cooling fans are less effective than the stock one, others say aftermarket fans are better. Are there any that have been tried, tested and agreed upon to outperform stock? Thanks. Been using 2 stroke Buddy fan, fits perfectly in the QMB shroud. Bigger diameter, bigger blades, good quality material. I don't have a temp gauge on my bike yet but I can feel more air coming from the outlet vs. stock.
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