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Post by repherence2 on Jan 14, 2019 20:39:12 GMT -5
It would be a good practice to mock up the temp ring, spark plug, and head without the head on the bike. In my experience, I have had to clearance/grind some portion of the cooling fins on the head in way of where the probe portion of the temp ring will sit. It normally corresponds to a slit that I cut at the spark plug access hole on the shroud. I made that slit because the shroud cover used to pinch/break my probe wire. With the temp ring installed on the plug, the probe part of the ring can bind or get caught on the cooling fin, causing you to thread the plug in crooked.
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Post by lilpinny on Jan 14, 2019 21:53:31 GMT -5
I'd say you are just getting some experience.
Heh... Experience...
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jack667
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 190
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Post by jack667 on Jan 14, 2019 22:54:51 GMT -5
That f’n CHT ring! One of the things I hate most about wrenchin’ on the scoot! The plug always goes in fine without the ring but I always need to get that damn ring on there bc my scoots run hot Not sure I need to work on the fins. But I know I should dremel my schrowd but I never bother. I just curse my way through it every time Although - I just had a breakthrough. One thing I notice with the scoot that I’ve been tuning is that the ring is pretty tight on the plug threads. I’m fact, with the plug on its own, in my hand, the ring goes all the way to the end of the thread and then locks in at the base. WTF? So - if I have the ring all the way at the base of the plug threads (by the middle of the plug overall), then in order for the plug to turn as it screws into the head, the CHT sensor needs to turn with it. It’s a tight fit as-is, without that complication. Damn So - I just now found out that it works WAY better if I only put the ring half into the plug threads and then start putting the plug into the head. I can get the plug screwed in easily - without worrying about cross threading. At some point (too early, really), it gets too difficult to screw in by hand (actually thumb and forefinger). So then I start using the plug wrench but again - it’s in far enough / correctly and not cross-threaded, so I’m not afraid to muscle it in with the wrench. Not sure if that helps anyone but it was a bit cathartic to type it all out
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 15, 2019 8:14:28 GMT -5
Lilpinny, too funny you’re right.
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 15, 2019 8:19:43 GMT -5
Nothing on the sides of the piston it wouldn’t start think goodness. Caught it before stuff got really f’d up. So there’s no fixing the jacked up threads, sigh.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 15, 2019 8:53:39 GMT -5
That f’n CHT ring! One of the things I hate most about wrenchin’ on the scoot! The plug always goes in fine without the ring but I always need to get that damn ring on there bc my scoots run hot Not sure I need to work on the fins. But I know I should dremel my schrowd but I never bother. I just curse my way through it every time Although - I just had a breakthrough. One thing I notice with the scoot that I’ve been tuning is that the ring is pretty tight on the plug threads. I’m fact, with the plug on its own, in my hand, the ring goes all the way to the end of the thread and then locks in at the base. WTF? So - if I have the ring all the way at the base of the plug threads (by the middle of the plug overall), then in order for the plug to turn as it screws into the head, the CHT sensor needs to turn with it. It’s a tight fit as-is, without that complication. Damn So - I just now found out that it works WAY better if I only put the ring half into the plug threads and then start putting the plug into the head. I can get the plug screwed in easily - without worrying about cross threading. At some point (too early, really), it gets too difficult to screw in by hand (actually thumb and forefinger). So then I start using the plug wrench but again - it’s in far enough / correctly and not cross-threaded, so I’m not afraid to muscle it in with the wrench. Not sure if that helps anyone but it was a bit cathartic to type it all out In the future it really helps to enlarge the hole in the ring a very small amount. Sandpaper works well.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2019 20:32:26 GMT -5
I should have mentioned something about the snug temp ring. I ran into that same problem with my first probe. After that, I opened up the diameter with sand paper to alleviate the snug fit of the ring on the plug.
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 20, 2019 13:19:34 GMT -5
I had two different cylinders race and sport after f’ing up the race I put the sport back on. It sounds awesome, it will hit 10k rpm easy. I don’t think something is right in transmission (new variator/orig. clutch) though. The tire isn’t spinning very fast.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 20, 2019 16:03:43 GMT -5
I had two different cylinders race and sport after f’ing up the race I put the sport back on. It sounds awesome, it will hit 10k rpm easy. I don’t think something is right in transmission (new variator/orig. clutch) though. The tire isn’t spinning very fast. Glad you have some progress. What weights did you use in the variator? Which contra spring did you use? And someone previously asked if you ground out the case where you OR pulley sits? Forgive me if you answered and I missed it. It could be as simple as weights that are too light and or a contra spring that is too stiff.
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 20, 2019 16:17:22 GMT -5
I did lots of grinding on the cover and transmission cover. Everything fits, barely! I used the red contra spring that came with kit I alternated 3.5 and 3.8 weights in variator.
I just rode it kicks in at 5500rpm and really grabs at 6900 then practically nothing any higher than that.
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 20, 2019 16:25:33 GMT -5
I’m learning that there’s a very fine line on everything working together. Kind of a cause and effect sorta. That doesn’t mean I comprehend all of the causes and effects YET. But I do know that the engine sounds like it wants to run like a bat out of hell!!
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 20, 2019 17:58:56 GMT -5
I’m learning that there’s a very fine line on everything working together. Kind of a cause and effect sorta. That doesn’t mean I comprehend all of the causes and effects YET. But I do know that the engine sounds like it wants to run like a bat out of hell!! Congrats, you are learning quick just how fine that line can be! Put a soft spring in the contra IMO and spend plenty of time on the carb.
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Post by jetsteve2011 on Jan 20, 2019 18:28:24 GMT -5
Ordered a yellow spring, variator weight set, and stage 6 clutch&bell. This scooter has become more expensive than a crack addiction.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 20, 2019 18:38:53 GMT -5
Which pipe are you running, I see 2 mentioned?
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Post by hamodyjog on Jan 21, 2019 17:44:02 GMT -5
Sounds like you're bike is running very rich, maybe the needle has junk in it's way and not sealing correctly, something that has happened to me before, also mess with the float, reduce the float and see if that changes anything, mess with smaller pilot jets and even main jets, i really don't know much about these kind of bikes, but i know lots about stock bikes, so
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