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Post by oldgeek on Feb 6, 2019 17:33:25 GMT -5
Sounds pretty good idling to me.
And YES heavier weights can cause slow takeoff. The heavier weights push it into a taller gear sooner, so to speak. That is the beauty of CVT tuning, small changes can have a big affect. Time to lighten the weights up a bit. A small digital scale to weigh the rollers is very helpful in getting things dialed in, and is invaluable when you get your weights mixed up!
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Post by wiscootsin on Feb 6, 2019 18:55:40 GMT -5
Ok! Guess I’ll try the weights after this new batch of snowy ice is off the streets. I have no idea what the original weights are but have them separated. May need to pickup a scale.
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Post by wiscootsin on Feb 27, 2019 22:02:07 GMT -5
So I glanced at the title and it says 2005...I can't figure out why my head thought it was a 2004...sorry for any misinformation!
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 27, 2019 22:23:19 GMT -5
It should not matter, motor parts will be the same no matter what year.
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Post by wiscootsin on Mar 3, 2019 17:48:46 GMT -5
I've had this issue since before I made any of my changes.
Last summer the moped would take a long time to start. The longer it had sat, the longer it would take. So like, if it sat for a week it might take 10-15 minutes of kick starting to get it going (just to not drain the battery, electric start works fine). If it had been one day it might take 30 seconds. If it were in and out of a store it would start right up. I thought after doing all the changes maybe it would change, but I don't think it has. Yesterday i emptied the fuel, replaced fuel lines, and then put in ethanol free gas in case that would make a difference.
It is winter here in Wisconsin so it's in the 20s.
List of what I've done: replaced carburetor installed a derestricted CDI(cheapo cheap) put 70cc kit on it new spark plug (the one in there was fine though, this was mostly to aid in tuning) replaced oil lines cleaned out exhaust and painted black replaced fuel lines replaced vacuum line
What's most likely culprit? Should I look into the fuel petcock?
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Post by 190mech on Mar 3, 2019 19:00:34 GMT -5
Start enricher jet orifice too small or blocked,its a tiny hole in the float bowl that feeds the brass enricher tube that extends into the bowl...Sorry,couldnt find a pic I took a while back showing its location!
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Post by wiscootsin on Mar 3, 2019 20:09:34 GMT -5
Start enricher jet orifice too small or blocked,its a tiny hole in the float bowl that feeds the brass enricher tube that extends into the bowl...Sorry,couldnt find a pic I took a while back showing its location! Would I take off the auto enricher and clean down through that way? Or up through the bowl? Or you mean a small hole somewhere coming in from the outside feeding the enricher?
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Post by 190mech on Mar 4, 2019 0:32:27 GMT -5
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 4, 2019 9:58:03 GMT -5
I've had this issue since before I made any of my changes. Last summer the moped would take a long time to start. The longer it had sat, the longer it would take. So like, if it sat for a week it might take 10-15 minutes of kick starting to get it going (just to not drain the battery, electric start works fine). If it had been one day it might take 30 seconds. If it were in and out of a store it would start right up. I thought after doing all the changes maybe it would change, but I don't think it has. Yesterday i emptied the fuel, replaced fuel lines, and then put in ethanol free gas in case that would make a difference. It is winter here in Wisconsin so it's in the 20s. List of what I've done: replaced carburetor installed a derestricted CDI(cheapo cheap) put 70cc kit on it new spark plug (the one in there was fine though, this was mostly to aid in tuning) replaced oil lines cleaned out exhaust and painted black replaced fuel lines replaced vacuum line What's most likely culprit? Should I look into the fuel petcock? When it takes a long time to start, is there the "James Bond" smoke screen once you get it fired up and running?
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Post by wiscootsin on Mar 4, 2019 10:08:58 GMT -5
When it takes a long time to start, is there the "James Bond" smoke screen once you get it fired up and running? I think there's a decent amount of smoke at the start. i'd have to try it again to know exactly, but pretty sure a bit smokey. i don't know about james bond though!
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 4, 2019 10:14:23 GMT -5
When it takes a long time to start, is there the "James Bond" smoke screen once you get it fired up and running? I think there's a decent amount of smoke at the start. i'd have to try it again to know exactly, but pretty sure a bit smokey. i don't know about james bond though! I have had problems of oil leaking past the injector pump after the scoot sits for a while. It would take several minutes of kicking to get it fired up. My bike would sit for months on end so I definitely had James Bond smoke out the neighborhood action. When I tore down my bike to over haul it, I found about a teaspoon of 2t oil in the crankcase after the bike sat for several months.
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Post by wiscootsin on Mar 4, 2019 11:22:48 GMT -5
I think there's a decent amount of smoke at the start. i'd have to try it again to know exactly, but pretty sure a bit smokey. i don't know about james bond though! I have had problems of oil leaking past the injector pump after the scoot sits for a while. It would take several minutes of kicking to get it fired up. My bike would sit for months on end so I definitely had James Bond smoke out the neighborhood action. When I tore down my bike to over haul it, I found about a teaspoon of 2t oil in the crankcase after the bike sat for several months. You know that sounds likely to be my issue. There was oil all over down there before i cleaned it and it had a small slow oil drip. (i haven't used it since my new work so don't know how much/if it's still has some oil leaking). Would adjusting the oil pump cable change that? I suppose i could go without the oil pump and do pre mix. What's the repair option if i leave the oil pump in place?
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 4, 2019 20:33:45 GMT -5
I have had problems of oil leaking past the injector pump after the scoot sits for a while. It would take several minutes of kicking to get it fired up. My bike would sit for months on end so I definitely had James Bond smoke out the neighborhood action. When I tore down my bike to over haul it, I found about a teaspoon of 2t oil in the crankcase after the bike sat for several months. You know that sounds likely to be my issue. There was oil all over down there before i cleaned it and it had a small slow oil drip. (i haven't used it since my new work so don't know how much/if it's still has some oil leaking). Would adjusting the oil pump cable change that? I suppose i could go without the oil pump and do pre mix. What's the repair option if i leave the oil pump in place? I don't think adjusting the cable will solve the drip issue. I have seen other members post about an inline check valve for the oil injector. I'm not sure about the details because my Chinarelli did not have a check valve when I bought it used. It happened on my Chinarelli block as well as my 90cc Yamaha block. I'm sure you could switch to premix too. You can either loop the inlet and outlet hose on the injection pump or remove it completely off the block. Make sure you cap the port from where you unhook the oil injection hose.
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Post by wiscootsin on Apr 3, 2019 22:09:43 GMT -5
Here's the setup it's at right now.
stock variator with 5.5g weights. stock lightened clutch with orange clutch springs. a used bando belt. tops around 38mph on flat ground at aroudn 8400 rpm. real zippy too so, this would be all i need and am looking for but i'll see what more can come... I have some 16x13 rollers on order to try out the hoca variator.
I tried a bunch of other setups but this seems the most reliable compromise. when i increased the contra spring the CVT got so hot after a test run that one of the airbox screws fell out...still confused about that one...
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