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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 30, 2019 23:11:22 GMT -5
The very act of testing the wires can temporarily improve the crimp connections. The metal in cheap connectors won't hold a gas tight crimp so they loosen over time and corrode.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Feb 1, 2019 16:49:10 GMT -5
they loosen over time and corrode. Back in the early days of the IBM-compatible, all the RAM and most of the other chips on the main board were the Dual In-line Package form-factor. I would consistently get new customers with the complaint of erratic and erroneous behaviour. The fix was a "complete re-seat" of everything that plugged into something else inside the case. Just push down on each chip with my thumb. I was always surprised at how far the RAM chips would push back into the board...those were the days!
It's still colder than the b@lls on a brass monkey here so I'm not getting any wrench time yet. It looks like Monday I'll be able to open a door in the repair bay. I'll prolly have some time to do some (fuel)gas plumbing then...yippeee!
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 1, 2019 16:51:19 GMT -5
Yeah, I remember that
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 8, 2019 18:53:16 GMT -5
This derned stator is acting up again and I can't seem to find a replacement for it. I've tried the shoppes mentioned here and others also...no go!
It seems that there are 4 versions listed for my application, but only 3 are available. The guy at Brooks Barn told me that one of them would work if I changed the connectors. I'm not totally against it, but I'm a little shy to rush my clippers out of the tool box.
This is the 2001 CPI I have listed in my signature. The funny thing is that I could never find a Moskito model listed for CPI, but it shows up as an MZ brand scooter. All the VIN stickers say CPI but it does have a tiny medallion on the nosepiece (is that called a fairing?) that says MZ.
I could sure use any input on this because I not sure how to determine where to place each wire in the connector and I dread hooking up an O-scope to it. I'm not sure the order of the phases will matter, the rec may not be sensitive to the order.
Anyway, it's still way too early for scooting up here, so I'll take my time. Thanks All.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 8, 2019 19:25:02 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 8, 2019 19:28:15 GMT -5
Do you have weak headlights or a dead battery? Why do you suspect you need a stator? You could just need a rectifier/regulator. Do you have a picture of the wire connections out of the stator? Edit: I must type slow
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 9, 2019 4:05:34 GMT -5
A flame thrower will fix all the cold and scoot problems
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 11, 2019 9:57:41 GMT -5
I tried to make all the wire colors visable. I'm gonna post this reply to see if the pics come out alright.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 11, 2019 10:10:07 GMT -5
OK, I can see the pics came out alright. The wire colors are: CDI: BLK w/ RED stripe BLU w/ YEL stripe Alternator: BLK WHT WHT w/RED stripe YEL w/RED stripe When I try to look up the part, there are 3 versions listed for this bike. They are v1, v2, & v4. I'd like to get a glimpse at v3 but nobody seems able to get so much as a pic of it. I was having no luck looking up this part until a CSR from Wales looked up MZ as the maker. So now when I use MZ as the Brand, the Moskito model shows up with several sub-models. This is odd because all the VIN stickers specifically identify CPI as the manufacturer and also refer to the model as JP50. I'm thinking this is the fun part of Asian scooters, but I could be wrong.
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Post by islandscrub on Mar 11, 2019 14:53:31 GMT -5
I don't know if you've done this yet, but if you pull your flywheel off and your stator looks like the pic 190mech put up, clean it then check your output. I've solved weak spark and charging by doing just some tidying up.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 11, 2019 20:04:32 GMT -5
Heeyyy, you're that MY PILLOW guy...I mean You're from Hawaii, aren't you???
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 11, 2019 20:14:57 GMT -5
Do you have weak headlights or a dead battery? Why do you suspect you need a stator? You could just need a rectifier/regulator. Do you have a picture of the wire connections out of the stator? I was getting AC voltage at my battery, so I checked the Reg/Rec. Upon further inspection, I found that the Reg/Rec was passing AC voltage at its output. I replaced the Reg/Rec and the AC voltage vanished at the Reg/Rec output and the battery, but DC voltage was low. When I rev the engine the DC rises a little but never more than 9 Volts DC.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 11, 2019 23:31:49 GMT -5
For what it's worth; My guess is that the 4-pin connector is essentially what is called a three-phase stator. The black wire is probably the common (but the white wire may be the common) and the other three wires are the three phase output. You would need a three phase rectifier regulator. Most likely none of them are grounded. The other two wires are the ~120VAC CDI power and the ignition timing coil output. Those two signals are probably grounded to the engine case.
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Post by snaker on Mar 12, 2019 11:02:59 GMT -5
Here's a ohm out sheet for you to use. With the stator connector disconnected, Ohm the pins and write in the results in all of the boxes. When doing the plate, be sure to scratch off any epoxy for good contact. This should identify the wires and diagnose the lighting coil providing its not burned up. If you post the results we can help you figure out what you have and what new part might fit if needed.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 12, 2019 17:57:32 GMT -5
Wow, what a great data sheet, here's what I found. YEL/r to WHT/r -- 1.2 ohm YEL/r to WHT -- 0.6 ohm WHT/r to WHT -- 1.3 ohm BLK to FRAME -- 0.4 ohm (somehow I'm thinking this should be ZERO ohms, or derned closer to it.) All others >2Meg ohm
I did take all data points both ways in case there was some variation, which there wasn't. I'm wrecked from today's activities so I need to put it in park for the nite. Thanks all, /Jer/
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