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Post by snaker on Mar 12, 2019 19:32:26 GMT -5
Dang I should have added a box for a meter self test reading (touching the test leads together). Not usually a big deal but when your looking at very low ohm readings it makes a difference. The .4 ohm your seeing between blk - plate reading could very well be your meter error. You can subtract the meter error from all of the values. Ex: .4 ohm reading minus .4 ohm meter error = 0 ohms.
The blk - plate chassis reading indicates that blk is ground, the equivalent of green on most GY6. And since the blk wire and plate have no ohms to the other three wires I would say that the blk (ground) is only for the AC ignition power coil and the ignition trigger circuits.
The other three wires of the 4 pin connector would appear to be the legs of a 3 phase lighting coil as mentioned. A 3 phase magneto would usually have 3 yellow wires instead of your 3 non-black colors.
It would nice to see that .6 of the wht and yel/rd be closer to the 1.2/1.3 of the other legs. If a possible .4 ohm meter error was subtracted you would have .2 ohms. That's getting pretty low and could indicate a shorted leg.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 14, 2019 9:08:15 GMT -5
Well, don't despair, my friend. My meter is a professional grade meter, and the leads are high quality too. I always touch the leads together and it read zero when I took the readings you asked for.
I should tell you that I can start the bike and have rode it a half-dozen times for many miles. The problem is it won't power the lights and gauges, or charge the battery. I have ~9.6vDC at the battery now that I have changed the Reg/Rec. That's almost 2/3 of charging voltage. Anyway, I'd still like to be able to match up another stator. I don't mind changing the connectors if that's all it needs.
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Post by snaker on Mar 14, 2019 15:41:25 GMT -5
I looked at the two links 190mech provided on page 2 of this tread.
The first lists a MZ Moskito 50 as a fit.
But the description and the photo show a 5 wire 7 pole stator.
I would make a pretty sure bet that it is also a single phase which is the more common stator for a 50.
It also has a 3 pin connector vs. your 4 pin.
Lot's of mystery here.
What did you replace your RR with?
The Stator and RR have to be a exact match.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 14, 2019 20:37:08 GMT -5
I bought a RR from amazon. It matched right up. 2x3 6-wire plug. The wire colors matched too. When I installed it, there was no more AC voltage at the battery, so it's doing the job of the Rectifier. There isn't enuff voltage to do the Regulator job.
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 16, 2019 18:15:47 GMT -5
Well, it looks like this is about as far as it goes for a problem like this.
I called the NYCscooterparts guy and he couldn't be bothered...others came on like Hollywood and left me swinging after the second email. If I was in their place I would, at least, let them talk to the supplier or manufacturer because those are the next step in the process.
Does anyone know of a supplier, not retailer, for stators that might make an effort on my behalf?
Thanks,
/Jer/
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jer
Scoot Member
Posts: 81
Location: Wyoming-Silicon-Genessee Valleys
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Post by jer on Mar 30, 2019 11:30:41 GMT -5
I think most of these parts suppliers just drop-ship their orders from the big boys. After explaining my problem when they say they don't have a replacement, I've been asking them for an ohm reading across the leads of another coil, and nobody wants to be bothered. I'll try a few more vendors, and if that doesn't work, I'll sell the bike as is with full disclosure: kicker w/no lights. I don't see any other end to this.
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