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Post by eliasholgersson on Mar 12, 2019 12:40:20 GMT -5
Hey!
Im planning on buying the Airsal 70cc T6-Racing to my 2006 Generic Xor.
But i dont know if the cranshaft will hold or not because i run on the original crankshaft.
The scooter only have around 1500 km on it and the crank is in good shape, it looks new to me.
The kit can make up to 12 hp and i will run the ussual stuff like a different carburettor and exhaust.
Has anyone used this kit or knows somthing about it please let me know.
(The engine is the same as in Cpi and Keeway scooters with 12 mm pin).
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Post by x7rocks on Mar 12, 2019 12:52:25 GMT -5
All depends on rpms and the pipes band youre looking for. Rule of thumb is to replace the crank when revving over 10k.
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Post by eliasholgersson on Mar 12, 2019 12:56:53 GMT -5
All depends on rpms and the pipes band youre looking for. Rule of thumb is to replace the crank when revving over 10k. Hmmm.... my plan is to go with the Turbo kit TKR pipe(same as S6 street) which is a low revving pipe. I dont think it will rev upp to 10k but maybe 8-9k. |
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Post by x7rocks on Mar 12, 2019 12:59:39 GMT -5
You should be fine with that setup.
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Mar 12, 2019 13:50:43 GMT -5
Has anyone ever had a crank actually self destruct or just had bearings fail?
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Post by x7rocks on Mar 12, 2019 14:59:56 GMT -5
Has anyone ever had a crank actually self destruct or just had bearings fail? Honestly a good question.I've seen people with aeroxs have their cranks bend. And i do burst of 13k(ticking time bomb) and even a zuma that saw 11k almost daily. Maybe it's just the luck of the draw. |
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Post by benji on Mar 12, 2019 15:50:51 GMT -5
I've heard it's not the crank shaft that breaks, but the big end bearing that goes bad starts to have play. That in itself should cause pretty big issues. I haven't seen it tho, I keep my bike below 11k usually.
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Post by benji on Mar 12, 2019 15:54:48 GMT -5
Hey! Im planning on buying the Airsal 70cc T6-Racing on the original crankshaft. Has anyone used this kit. this actually the bore I'm currently using. OEM crank, and it hits 11k and sits there no problem (yet). Don't expect alot of power tho, I swapped out a tpr black trophy (cast iron) for this one and lost some power. |
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Post by 190mech on Mar 12, 2019 17:12:53 GMT -5
I started a thread a few years back asking for documentation of stock cranks scattering metal bits everywhere,removing body parts,etc..Had no real answers,just here say of so&so having trouble..I agree that the big end bearing will go first(as all 2 stroke race motors do),its actually the bearing cage that wears/cracks allowing the rollers to get crooked..Has a lot to do with proper lubrication also to make that bearing live longer..I say run that stock crank till its tired,then do another build...  |
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Mar 12, 2019 17:17:22 GMT -5
I started a thread a few years back asking for documentation of stock cranks scattering metal bits everywhere,removing body parts,etc..Had no real answers,just here say of so&so having trouble..I agree that the big end bearing will go first(as all 2 stroke race motors do),its actually the bearing cage that wears/cracks allowing the rollers to get crooked..Has a lot to do with proper lubrication also to make that bearing live longer..I say run that stock crank till its tired,then do another build...  Thats where I was going with my question. If it’s not gonna grenade the con rod or something just spin it till it burns. i’ve cooked the big end bearing on a TGB, that conrod rattled everywhere when I pulled the topend, but it didn’t do any collateral damage. It was super noisy by the time I actually tore it down. That was on a build that maxed at just above 11k. |
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 12, 2019 17:26:09 GMT -5
I ran a 70cc ported cylinder, nothing crazy on a used stock 12pin crank at 10K for many miles. No problems. I say run it, hard!
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 12, 2019 18:27:01 GMT -5
I had picked up a Mina with a destroyed big end bearing. Blued the crank. The clones I’ve seen don’t usually use thrust washers which accelerates the wear, Yamaha cranks seem to have them. I think in bursts your fine going to 11, maybe 12K but there are other parts that may not be happy. Like the flywheel you didn’t torque down.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 12, 2019 19:07:34 GMT -5
I had picked up a Mina with a destroyed big end bearing. Blued the crank. The clones I’ve seen don’t usually use thrust washers which accelerates the wear, Yamaha cranks seem to have them. I think in bursts your fine going to 11, maybe 12K but there are other parts that may not be happy. Like the flywheel you didn’t torque down. I fully agree here!The stock flywheel isnt built for that constant high RPM,have seen a few crack and shear rivets when run that way,,High revs at the crank is greatly multiplied at the clutch/torque driver due to belt ratio,stuff will bend and break within that cover also,need to think about the whole picture when upping the RPM band on any engine... |
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Post by benji on Mar 12, 2019 21:14:04 GMT -5
I had picked up a Mina with a destroyed big end bearing. Blued the crank. The clones I’ve seen don’t usually use thrust washers which accelerates the wear, Yamaha cranks seem to have them. I think in bursts your fine going to 11, maybe 12K but there are other parts that may not be happy. Like the flywheel you didn’t torque down. I fully agree here!The stock flywheel isnt built for that constant high RPM,have seen a few crack and shear rivets when run that way,,High revs at the crank is greatly multiplied at the clutch/torque driver due to belt ratio,stuff will bend and break within that cover also,need to think about the whole picture when upping the RPM band on any engine... ya, I cheaped out on the Iggy and had my OEM flywheel lightened. Now I'm worried it may be out of balance and end up shattering haha 😥 |
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 12, 2019 21:21:42 GMT -5
Push it, whats the worst that could happen 🧨
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