Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2019 15:49:37 GMT -5
I just bought a new Taotao 50 pony and I want to up grade a lot. I want the best parts I can buy and still keep it a 49cc motor . I seen A CDI and COIL at www.jandjpowersports.comAnd I was wandering if they were good or garbage .plus where can I buy the best variators and belt.keep in mind im new at this and im a quick learner. Just need a little help making this thing go faster. |
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Post by pinkscoot on Jun 9, 2019 17:07:50 GMT -5
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Post by FrankenMech on Jun 9, 2019 19:25:54 GMT -5
 What he said^^^
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2019 12:23:32 GMT -5
Ok from what I gather the performance coil and CDI's are garbage and im better off sticking with stock stuff. But im a little confused about the varator. The video showed him having all kinds of problems. But I did not under stand the end results. is there a good varator I can just bolt on. I want one that grabs more and helps me go up hills and do good on flats
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Post by tortoise2 on Jun 10, 2019 13:10:35 GMT -5
varator . . want one that grabs more and helps me go up hills Lighter sliders should keep the CVT in "low-range" longer for hills, but expect slightly LESS top speed. Consider 5 gram sliders, a 681-17.7-30 drive belt, and keep tires inflated to around 30psi. Conventional Delo 15W-40 works well, and around 1 tablespoon per gallon of Lucas Fuel Treatment adds a little upper cylinder lubrication. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2019 17:33:31 GMT -5
Do you know how many grams the stock ones are. And thank you for the advice . And where do I buy the spaner wrench and puller for removing the varator. Are they standard tools ?
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Post by tortoise2 on Jun 10, 2019 17:39:20 GMT -5
removing the varator . . tools Typically just an impact. |
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Jun 10, 2019 21:02:41 GMT -5
As tortoise2 mentioned I’d consider the sliders opposed to the rollers especially if you have less stop lights in your area. They didn’t wear as fast as rollers did on my Sym Tomos Nitro and seemed better for transitioning over to top speed. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2019 22:23:36 GMT -5
Well I do live in town with a few stop lights , but most the time I have about a 5 mile drive one way to work. And hitting max speed of 43 mph on flats and hill 15 to 20 mph. I would like to hit at least 30 to 35 on hills with out compramizing flat speed. I dont want to buy a bunch of parts just to find out it dont work.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jun 12, 2019 17:25:46 GMT -5
Everything is a compromise. You are doing really well to reach those speeds. Don't screw it up.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 15, 2019 13:54:03 GMT -5
Gotto go with the Franken... You will trade hill climbing speed for top speed if you fiddle with things. OR trade the other way. There is only so much power being produced, and hill climbing actually means WORK, as in W=FD. Lifting the machine and yourself up from the bottom of the hill is the additional work required.
Imagine you can put your scoot on a large pallet. Then lift the pallet to the top of the hill (height) without moving sideways in any direction. That is the extra work, in addition to sideways motion, that must be done climbing a hill. On flat, none of that is required, so top speed can be reached.
If you mess with it, you will affect either hill climbing or top speed, which do you want to get worse?
tom
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2019 18:08:12 GMT -5
Ok im starting to understand .Im better off leaving it like it is. But I would like to replace the varator and cluch with the best I can get. Can someone lead me in the right direction. I need to replace the rollers with sliders the same weight thats in it now wich I have no idea what stock is. Im thinking there 5 to 5 1/2 oz
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Post by pinkscoot on Jun 15, 2019 18:45:43 GMT -5
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Post by jdaley1847 on Jun 16, 2019 18:04:31 GMT -5
Ncy, dr pulley or naraku all make excellent variator kits, but be prepared to spend alot of money. 140.00 to 280.00 range. I use ncy and it has taken a beating with my stroker engine with no issues at all.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 17, 2019 12:56:56 GMT -5
If you are happy with rollers, there's a 'rule of thumb' for replacing rollers with sliders, and selecting the proper weight. I do not know the rule of thumb, but runs along the lines: "When replacing rollers with sliders, you can go roughly 2g higher in roller weight for the same performance." Or, maybe it is 2g lighter. I do not know.
Unless you are running a performance enhanced machine, the above after market variators MAY not be necessary. They are good products, accepted as such by their purchasers. Do you have an engine that produces enough power that you need 'performance' products? Honest question. I lean towards replacing with variators in the same general range as OEM. I am not racing, and cannot really tell the difference between 5g and 7g rollers. I guess I am not a 'tuner', and accept that 'it is what it is.' Adding every thing I could for the most performance would be a lot of work and money and I just don't care. But to each her/his own.
If your variator is not worn out, clean it up, make sure there are no 'pockets; where the slider or roller can hand, and put it back together. Worn sliders/rollers will be visibly damaged or abraded when worn. Worn slider/rollers wont roll or slide as well, in either direction, and the performance will be somewhat less than it was when new. It won't want to up shift as well, nor downshift as well, depending, if there are worn 'bumpy' areas. The same thing can happen to the clutch face 'ramps'. The spring won't move the face freely, and performance will suffer, caused by hanging face that the variator cannot work with... it won't respond if it hangs, and the variator won't be able to force it.
tom
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Generally those aftermarket CDI's and coils are junk, stay with stock and save yourself a headache. If you watch 
