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Post by superbrita on Oct 14, 2019 13:54:12 GMT -5
Hello everyone.I dont know whether this thread is for this section if not sorry.So i bought a new 70cc kit and placed it on my scooter.Everything was fine and i managed to put everything together with no issues.When i went for the first ride everything was ok and no problems were discovered for the first 30 minutes.Then i noticed it got louder and it had less power.Then i noticed this: Is there a way to fix it temporary until i save some money for a new kit.
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Post by jloi on Oct 14, 2019 14:02:32 GMT -5
I don't think it is but others will chime in who know more . If you want good help tell us what you have with details ; scooter brand, size , specs etc.
I could be wrong- maybe it might be possible to put some weld there and then drill and tap it . don't worry someone who knows will respond.
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Post by dexameth on Oct 14, 2019 14:32:21 GMT -5
Ouch. I was thinking, you could possibly have it welded back up and tapped like jloi suggested. I don't think an epoxy like JB-Weld would hold up too well to the heat and vibrations.
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Post by markogarelli on Oct 14, 2019 14:33:54 GMT -5
I don't think it is but others will chime in who know more . If you want good help tell us what you have with details ; scooter brand, size , specs etc.
I could be wrong- maybe it might be possible to put some weld there and then drill and tap it . don't worry someone who knows will respond.
Ye, i agree. If im not wrong, that might be the only way to solve this. It should be done precise though.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Oct 14, 2019 14:42:41 GMT -5
That sucks . Temporary not even high stress area you need that welded cast rod heat up first the weld clean both parts up first. Do you have a local welding shop in your area ? Then the cost is your next problem here it would cost 30 bucks to get anyone to do it. Is it worth that or more? Maybe you have a friend that welds with stick or can braze it for you?
If you go stick you don't have to heat it as much as brazing 850 900 stick opposed to 1200 or 1300 brazing Good luck on that one .
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Post by geoffh on Oct 14, 2019 15:12:05 GMT -5
That's a tough repair to get done,and it needs to done properly or your exhaust won,t seal.contact the vendor to see if they can sell you just the cyl?? meanwhile I would go back to your old set up(sucks I know),you should also consider what caused the failure??when I screw up that stud hole I just buy a new cylinder it is cheaper and easier than the repair.I use naraku studs there NK101.89 M6 one side has 10mm the other17 mm of thread I only put the 10mm into the cast iron and snug tight.
Geoff
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Post by christopher on Oct 14, 2019 17:00:38 GMT -5
What cylinder brand and model is it? As others have said cast iron can be welded. The question is cost of work VS cost of a new cylinder. I would test hang everything loosely to see where it is binding. Maybe the port and muffler mounts are a little off. Mine don't line up perfectly on mine and I had to make a few adjustments to the mount.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 14, 2019 19:45:07 GMT -5
That exhaust boss was drilled and tapped Waaaaayyy off center. Notice how narrow one side of the broken piece is compared to the other side. I would be sending a pic to the vendor, asking why was it not drilled in the middle... It broke because it was improperly made. They should send another cylinder. And some gaskets so you can remove and recycle the defective one and install the new.
Somebody messed up at the factory. Take a look at your old cylinder and see where the exhaust stud holes were drilled relative to the machined boss. I would expect the metal to be a lot closer to being even for both studs, not so narrow. I make the assumption that you bought a new cylinder and installed it and have the old one still around. Take a picture straight on to the exhaust port on both and compare how 'centered' the holes are drilled. Send copies to the seller... ask for a refund or replacement. tom
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Post by harleyracer59 on Oct 14, 2019 23:27:16 GMT -5
I was able to fit a button head allen from behind and quick steel it in place. with my old heavier pipe, I had to redo it 2x since I installed my sidebleed, its held for a few months now... but my polini had room . yours doesn't look like you have any kind of "edge" for the button head to catch on. mayvbe you could Dremel a pad?
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Post by superbrita on Oct 15, 2019 3:23:25 GMT -5
Yeah i would ask for replacement or refund but here in Bulgaria they wont do it. They would say that i broke it and they are not responsible for that. If it was broken during the shipment the they will refund or replace it. I also did measurements and my cylinder holes were 48mm and my exhaust ones were 47mm. My old kit wich is the same is 47mm. Thats probably what caused it.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 17, 2019 18:49:05 GMT -5
You could at least ask. The worst they can say is NO. They might give you a discount on a replacement as their machine work at least CONTRIBUTED to the problem. Had they bored the holes in the center of the boss, the strength would have been a lot higher. Question I have is: Did they drill & tap on the opposite side in similar fashion? In other words, is there a 'thick' and 'thin' side on the side that did not break? Is so, their alignment tool may have been positioned incorrectly, as in rotated in one direction or the other. That would make the bored holes the proper distance across, center-to-center, but would have put them offset on the casting. Imagine a flat exhaust gasket. Set it inplace on a chunk of iron. Trace the outline. You'll have a sketch of the cylinder head & flange. Now, rotate the gasket 10-15 degrees CCW or CW. Use marker to delineate the holes for the studs. Remove the gasket, and you will end up with TWO holes that are 'clocked' incorrectly. Spacing fine across the exhaust port, but BOGUS spacing on the flange boss. I think that's what you got. I repeat, nothing against Bulgars, but they should do something as they sold you a defective casting. It happened to fail quickly, but likely would have failed later on anyway. Good luck. tom
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Post by harleyracer59 on Oct 18, 2019 12:57:12 GMT -5
I agree with grumpyunk. the one side of the broken piece looks really thin. id call them and atleast ask. worst they could say is no. if they tell you no. then you tell them youre on a huge scooter forum and if you are not at the very least offered a discount on a replacement, you'll blast them with negative feed back on their product, their customer service and their company in whole to anyone that will read about it. a threat on their wallets might get you further. btw, what type of scooter do you have and whos the manufacturer of that cylinder? I want to make sure I don't buy one... j/k but not really
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Post by geoffh on Oct 18, 2019 15:36:34 GMT -5
I,ve been on holiday to Bulgaria,it,s not quite Dodge city circa1850 but very close,customer service is good till they have your money,and counterfeit goods abound on open sale,and I was in a "tourist" area,needless to say next holiday might be in downtown Detroit or Lebanon.
Geoff
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Post by 'O'Verse on Oct 18, 2019 22:45:03 GMT -5
Easiest option I can see is just weld an all thread bolt directly to the cylinder. Have it permanently sticking out. Or just cut the head off a longer bolt and weld that. And then just use a nut and washer to hold your exhaust on. You could still get a full life out of the cylinder.
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Post by harleyracer59 on Oct 19, 2019 1:24:29 GMT -5
Easiest option I can see is just weld an all thread bolt directly to the cylinder. Have it permanently sticking out. Or just cut the head off a longer bolt and weld that. And then just use a nut and washer to hold your exhaust on. You could still get a full life out of the cylinder. problem is that looks like a cast iron cylinder. you can braze cast iron and a good welder can arc weld it, but mig and tig are not cast iron friendly. now if it was cast aluminum, you can weld away. I think the welding issues with cast iron is one of its biggest flaws. send me the info, ill bug them for you! lol....
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