Lil Blue ETon Beamer Build

[df41590]

2005 ETon Beamer II PN2B

Naraku Variator (NK900.62), Hourmeter/Tachometer, OutLaw Racing Magnetic Gear Oil Drain Plug Installed

MJ kit 70-115; 5.5g, 6.0g, 6.5g roller weights; Reeds on standby.

Polini Contessa/Sport Cylinder, Polini Speed Exhaust, and various maintenance items set to arrive today.

Fly Wheeler Puller, Pressure Tester, Crank Seals, Variator Shim Kit, Head Thermometer Gauge set to arrive Monday.

I plan on removing motor, so I can set it up on a table to work. Going to remove the oil pump and switch to pre-mix. Thinking of running 40:1 for break in then going to 50:1 for the regular mix b/c that's what ETon calls for when doing the Oil Pump Output Test figure that'll be safe. How long should I give the cylinder to break in? I drive WOT 99% of the time, so its gonna be hard taking it easy on this thing.

Special Thanks to Zino for the good advice on what parts to get for a rip happy/ reliable ride!

[Zino]

There are 2 schools of thought on braking in a engine .

After fully warmed up scooter .Starting it watching the back tire after it settles down to slow speed and then get ready to move on the scoot

Follow the book and break in with progessively higher rpms runs over or a long period of time .
Typically after 500-1000 miles you are able to ride it how you want .

Or drive it like you stole it Just get on after it is warmed up and just rev her up at and roll down the road just avoid being at the same rpm for very long go up and down after a couple tanks of gas and you are good to go ]

These 2 minnarelli stroke engines are very bullet proof plenty of stories of people beating on them or fishing out of a pond and they come back from the dead.

I personally use the ride it like you stole it method
I dont go through a long break through with any other high rpm 2 stroke engine
snowmobile ,chainsaw weedwacker,lawnmower .

There is some debate on motorcycle and scooters that you break in over a slower time because the brand new tires need time to wear the slick coating off that they ship with.
I take a few tanks of gas with new tires because the slick coating does cause them to handle poorly at higher speed and cornering .

[Zino]

break in resources a good thread
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/21009/break-technic

[hellish100]

I use the same ride-it-like-you-stole-it break in procedure as Zino.

[df41590]

Jul 31, 2020 11:16:21 GMT -5 hellish100 said:

I use the same ride-it-like-you-stole-it break in procedure as Zino.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. It's gonna be too difficult for me to be easy on it. Figure the 70cc sport cylinders are pretty cheap and I plan on getting new rings for stock cylinder, so I have a back up if I need to wait for a new 70cc kit. Don't think i've ever been this excited. 

[Zino]

It was easiest to explain to my wife
Warm it up real good and then get on it and vary rpms gradually push it harder and harder on each ride   .
She just smirked and said that sounds like fun and dirty at the same time .

[190mech]

Ive been around 2strokes a long time,do MX racers putt around the track for 100km before gassing it??Dont think so..We'd rebuild one,putt around the parking lot/neighborhood,check for leaks,and on to the races!Can't say this is correct,but worked for us many years...

[Zino]

Here is a prebug build with similar polini parts like you that will get you inspired
The prebugs are about 20 lbs lighter than your scoot so the results are more dramatic for him .
Burying the needle is fun which is 50 mph or 85 kph
Just go slow take pictures brent has a nice write up on how to put a kit on in the directory 

49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/27020/prebug-zuma-1st-build

[Zino]

just in case you need a guide Brent has a very good one
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/556

[df41590]

So far it has been pretty straight forward much easier than modern cars i'm use to working on. Been bouncing from one of Brent's Engine removal how tos and the factory guide on get2itparts.com, but both don't mention in detail the oil pump cable only have that left then the mount bolt and strut bolt and she's out. Mostly curious w/ what to do w/ cable after the oil pump delete. Can I just disconnect it from the pump and zip tie to the frame or do I have to track it down to where it meets the throttle cable?

[df41590]

And now it's beer'o'clock.

[Zino]

When you delete the pump you could just ziptie it it doesnt do anything now .
It is so much esier to do a install like you are doing just get everything out of the way and remove the rear wheel.
I like a challenge so I flop around onthe floor trying to get the 2nd circlip in and the rings compresed and sliding the cylinder on.

[df41590]

Ok good saves me some time want this back on the road ASAP. Pulled the stock cylinder apart and put it back together earlier definitely glad I pulled the motor especially w/ also doing the oil pump delete that looks like it'd be PITA too, having to work around the body panels while having to shove your head under the bike, no thanks, work is stressful/challenging enough I wanna come home and do some relaxed wrenching.

[Zino]

3 things often over looked 
Give any gasket sealers time to cure .
I try to wait the full 24 hours that some sealants suggest.

After your first warm up ride
While it is still warm take off the cooling shrouds and retorque the bolts too spec .
Every time I have had a 1/8 turn or more on each bolt .

Air Leaks are deadly 
So take a a wet rag while the scooter is running and plug the end of your pipe if she kills quick you are good if she keeps running you have a exhaust leak .

[df41590]

And a stud decide to break when I went to torque it all down Guess on the bright side it wasn't at the case and I won't have to mess w/ the circlips again.

I planned on leaving it for the full 24hrs before I pressure tested. Gonna rig up one from Brent's thread.

Now to try and find the studs.