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Post by pete130 on Jan 3, 2022 0:06:19 GMT -5
Hi this happend today, at only 5nm all 3 others were fine, so dud bolt, its still sticking out but, im not sure what to use to remove, when I was doing bolt up, it got hard, befor it was fully down, I got worried so I started to take out, but seemed to just get stuck the same, I sprayed wd 40 waited 10 then tryed to undo and snap I don't want to drill it out, any ideas, I did spry with rust nut removal, onto thread, and ill wait till morining, do u thing vice grips and heat may just work,
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Jan 3, 2022 2:45:12 GMT -5
Penetrating oil and heat, then your plan for vice grips. But don’t be surprised if you have to drill the center and use a screw or bolt extractor.
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Post by pete130 on Jan 3, 2022 2:55:00 GMT -5
Penetrating oil and heat, then your plan for vice grips. But don’t be surprised if you have to drill the center and use a screw or bolt extractor. I'm hopeing it doesn't come to that was undoing with it happend , and wasn't all the way in, I use a product called yeild, its extremely good, I went back to spray some more on it, and could see a lot going down thread, ill keep spraying over 12 hours wait, and try the heat method, frustrating to happen, was starting it after carb install, ill have the good news tomorrow thanks
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Post by chadbullet on Jan 3, 2022 6:08:10 GMT -5
If the vice grips don't work, I like notching a spot in the top of the bolt to fit a flat head screwdriver. Or if you can weld, put a nut on top of it
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Post by lilpinny on Jan 3, 2022 8:52:26 GMT -5
If the vice grips don't work, I like notching a spot in the top of the bolt to fit a flat head screwdriver. Or if you can weld, put a nut on top of it This. Use a dremmel to put a notch across it so you can use a flathead screwdriver to remove it.
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Post by jackrides on Jan 3, 2022 11:04:00 GMT -5
Don't know 'yield' here, we have 'Aero-Kroil' which puts WD-40 to shame for penatration. Other posts coverit well.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2022 11:50:56 GMT -5
If you resort to drilling for extraction, use Left Hand drill bits and run the drill in reverse. Sometimes the bit will bite the screw remnant and back it out as you drill. In the submarine world we avoid using extactors in case they break. Once you break an extractor you have to use a high speed burr grinder to remove it.
From the picture, you have enough remnant to bite it with a vise-grip plier. In my craft, i have used 2 vise-grips. Use the first one to bite onto the screw. And i use a second vise-grip plier to crank on the knurl nut on the first plier, to tighten up the initial plier.
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Post by jloi on Jan 3, 2022 13:23:16 GMT -5
I like needlenose vise grip for short stuff ; sometimes needlenose can get a grip when reg pliers won't
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Post by snaker on Jan 3, 2022 13:52:00 GMT -5
If you resort to drilling for extraction, use Left Hand drill bits and run the drill in reverse. Sometimes the bit will bite the screw remnant and back it out as you drill. In the submarine world we avoid using extactors in case they break. Once you break an extractor you have to use a high speed burr grinder to remove it. From the picture, you have enough remnant to bite it with a vise-grip plier. In my craft, i have used 2 vise-grips. Use the first one to bite onto the screw. And i use a second vise-grip plier to crank on the knurl nut on the first plier, to tighten up the initial plier. This Because you were in the process of installing the bolt, a rust seizure is out Heat would probably be ineffective Penetrant wouldn't be cutting though rust but could possibly lube if you got the bolt to start moving More likely its gauling/burrs or cross threading Neither of those will tend to loosen up So yeah, two visegrips tighten the one to the breaking point before trying Thing with gauling is if you do get it out, you often take the threads with it Then you have to go to a larger bolt If you do a great job of drilling, there is a chance that you can clean out the original threads and reuse
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Post by pete130 on Jan 3, 2022 20:24:46 GMT -5
Thank all for imput, as said brand new, and no it won't come out tryed everything, took photo to shop to get done, I don't have tools or car to go buy tools, and no one to help, so I can carrie motor 4km, but I have to pull apart to just take one care, they won't do unless its gareetee no metal can get into crank, so that put a big bummer on build, and $300 to do, so thanks again malossi, missing parts and defective parts, well dont think ill be posting much, this will take another month, thanks for your help
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2022 20:39:02 GMT -5
did you try the vise-grip plier yet?
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2022 20:54:51 GMT -5
do you have access to a grocery store that sells cooking spices? they might have Alum there. i have read and seen videos on dissolving steel that is broken in aluminum using Alum. you can find it in the spice section of the grocery store. i tried it to remove a broken tap but it did not work for me. could be because taps are usually HSS high speed steel. i dunno. just a thought, maybe the Alum solution would work on your application.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2022 21:15:05 GMT -5
i have seen the gas turbine sailors break bolts on LM2500 gas turbine engines, only for my shop to have to remove the broken bolt remnants. they are qualified to fix/replace gas turbine engines on destroyers, while we as civilians cannot get qualified for that sort of work, but when they break bolts, my shop goes ship board to "extract" those broken bolts. i have seen my coworker grind out several broken bolts with a die grinder and carbide burrs on these gas turbine parts. in my craft, you can still "recover" so you are still in a good position. if not, in the end, you can drill out the broken bolt with a regular drill bit. use a file to flatten the top and then center punch it, then step drill. you might be able to bolt up the intake and use it as a drill guide while drilling out the bolt remnant. order a helicoil kit and tap size drill bit. drill and re-tap for helicoil. all the valve hydraulic actuators i worked on at work were mainly aluminum bodies with steel bolts. every threaded hole had steel thread inserts (helicoils). even the uS Navee does not trust threads in aluminum, especially if it is a pressure containing joint.
**you can also use a Dremel with a tungsten carbide burr (i think it is 1/8" in diameter, i use it for porting bores) but you gotta get the tungsten carbide burr that is end cut. the end cut burr will allow you plunge into the bolt. grind from the center outward, and then when it is thin enough, collapse the remnant in with a scribe/pick.**
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Post by pete130 on Jan 5, 2022 2:06:13 GMT -5
Well I tryed, everything i could with tools i have, having no transport, makes it harder, but I walked up to, the shop I usaly use, they had a look, im lucky they said shouldn't have to much trouble, I removed ignition and water pump and thing that won't like heat,but also said if its to hard drill and make m8, and be done with it, they thought it would be done today, so im hopeing they were, busy and didn't have to do the m8 thread, thanks again for all your help
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Post by pete130 on Jan 5, 2022 19:54:03 GMT -5
Well update, shop cant get bolt out, say something is wrong big time for it to even do it, so not motor has to be bullet apart and sent to machinest, so that's a big cost I don't use old bearings or seals no matter what, so new seals and bearing inst cheap, and then cost to be done, so I've asked for a full refund from seller, as I'm over it, brand new shouldnt have this problems, or pay this amount to not be right, no joy from malossi, they only sell they don't care, they have a name, well as I said month, let you all know what happens
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