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Post by km4nxa on Dec 26, 2017 16:19:53 GMT -5
Finally broke down and got a good timing light. Innova 5568. I'd used the snap on version of this previously. That one will set you back $400. Now having used both, I can't recommend the Innova enough. At $100, very impressive on usage and price. s19.postimg.org/7145jcgab/IMG_20171226_160920.png
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Post by km4nxa on Dec 26, 2017 15:56:19 GMT -5
Got my license to operate ham radio little over two years ago. Great thing to get into if you ever have the chance. That app is used by many other operators. Using the right setup you can have a short conversation, called a qso in ham terms, with astronauts on the iss. This gives a good explanation of it, www.ariss.org/contact-the-iss.html
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Post by km4nxa on Dec 15, 2017 13:11:50 GMT -5
Went ahead and ordered genuine keihin today. Hard to think out of all the new generic ones, not one will run right.
While working on it yesterday, took the nut off holding the clutch bell. Threads were bad, figured I'd replace it in meantime. Left heater on in building while gone to see if the twenty degree weather was partial problem of the carbs. Cranked it up when I got back, forgot to put new nut and clutch bell back on. Pretty sure the clutch springs are way over extended to work right at this point.
If it wasn't for problems, whether fault of myself like that or mechanical, I wouldn't know how to act.
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Post by km4nxa on Dec 14, 2017 12:04:56 GMT -5
It's a knock off, sorry about that guys. Excellent read regarding carb tuning
The carb I'd been running forever doesn't have any adjustments without making them. I'd tried jet sizes from 78 to 94 trying to fix the original issue. 86 or 87 was about the limit before it would start running too rich. That's why I wanted to try one of these other's, thought maybe the original had an issue (about five years old, 4,000 miles ran through it, and a no name)
Should've ordered brand name carb when ordered the stroker crank.
The float was the culprit for the gas leak. That parts fixed. Gonna see now if it wants to fall on its face or not.
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Post by km4nxa on Dec 13, 2017 19:34:52 GMT -5
After rebuilding motor from crank up, scooter has ran okay. Not bad, not great. It's had a lean condition....same condition I think was the reason for having to put a new crank in. I've been running it very Sunday driver style, just get from point a to b without hearing the marble rattle noise, either spark knock or pre ignition (in time, no vacuum leaks, always run 93) Today decided to try remedy the issue. After the third new carb I took off the shelf, it was a noticeable difference to the good far as throttle response, idle, etc. Got about a mile down the road, it died. Looked down, fuel was pouring from the carb. There's a small vent tube about 2/3 up from bottom, on the right if your looking at it from the manifold side. That's where it's coming from. Is there a bad gasket or o ring that would cause that or anyone else ran into same issue and find a fix?
All the carbs are the $25 jobs from Amazon, Keihin is brand on them.
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Post by km4nxa on Dec 6, 2017 16:04:21 GMT -5
Things I have done: Changed the air filter (cold air filter, the cone style) New carb and enricher New manifold New vacuum lines New Gas Cap New CDI Did you put all this on at once after the problem started or was some already installed Would throw the stock air box and filter back on as stated earlier as well. Colder temps, higher o2.
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Post by km4nxa on Nov 15, 2017 12:35:14 GMT -5
If you have to split the case,spend the money,get a high quality crank and bearings,then you have a solid base for upgrades such as a big block kit and won't have to worry about it failing Any sites in particular you recommend to get it from. All the ones I'm seeing off the top are around $35-40 They seem stock. I would much rather have an upgrade crank if it ain't outrageous price wise. That's the only part left on bike that's not upgraded
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Post by km4nxa on Nov 15, 2017 12:34:18 GMT -5
Took about ten minutes to get parts motor down to bare crank. Everything seems great on it, inside it. Looks brand new minus small bit of surface rust on ends that were exposed. Was it dumb luck that the crank came out easily or is that normal. I thought a press and torch/freezer would be needed. If it's normal I'm just going to start assembling good parts to good parts.
I need to get this done today is why I'm asking simplest route. If there's any specialty tools (besides fly wheel puller) needed I'll have to pause where I'm at.
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Post by km4nxa on Nov 15, 2017 11:40:23 GMT -5
Don't see any thing I can do at this point besides changing crank. Just too much play at every angle. On the parts bike, the crank is solid, zero play. But, the previous owner grenaded the top end, ended up with hole in piston from a broke valve. 1,000 miles on that motor. Question is, can I get away with stripping it down to just case with crank and then swapping over all the parts on current bike. Or, do i need to pull the parts crank completely and then reinstall
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Post by km4nxa on Nov 14, 2017 17:17:44 GMT -5
Realized that short clip isn't really enough for any one to maybe help diagnose the noise. Thought about it work yesterday and today, if it is something in bottom end, it's gonna need a makeover from crank up. So I don't see letting it run for a longer amount of time to change the overall outcome. I'll get another one when I get off work.
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Post by km4nxa on Nov 13, 2017 12:16:32 GMT -5
It might be hard in video to tell difference from muffler to the noise, but that clacking sound has never been there before.
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Post by km4nxa on Oct 27, 2017 19:06:16 GMT -5
Also, regarding your starter. You've had the bike long enough to tell a noticeable slower start electrically. That's more than likely your starter motor itself. One way to bypass that other than kick starting...take a good charged up drill and a 14mm socket(I believe, maybe 15mm) to your nut on the flywheel. I don't run any plastics, if you do you'll have to take off the cover and a fan I think. Either way, put the drill on the nut holding flywheel, have it in forward speed, and crank it that way. I do this every day. I used to crank it off the variator nut. Not sure if it's where the drill had to go in reverse using the variator side or what, but it seems to do a whole lot better using the flywheel side.
Know it's not going to cure your initial problem of idle, but...might help some after the kick starting incident. Kick starting over and over and over can cloud the brain with frustration when something is causing us problems. Causing the problem to get even bigger...imo
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Post by km4nxa on Oct 27, 2017 18:37:09 GMT -5
I really feel for you man, I do. I was in same boat just little over a week ago. Checked everything from Tom dick and Harry's toenail circumference. Lucky enough to have multiple new and used parts laying around. Had a stator in that read great on meter. Put a nother new one in and pesto, fired right up.
This suggestion is kinda off topic compared to rest, but where you live....is there anyone else that rides? If you can find sometime with a running scoot, maybe start with basics. That way you know your trading parts that 100% run for ones that might be in question.
Throw up your zip code, might be surprised. Someone on here could be close.
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Post by km4nxa on Oct 25, 2017 15:56:09 GMT -5
Thanks a lot, was able to get the belt on after following the video. Great improvement with the new spring. The rev limiter seems to be only thing holding me back at this point. Hoping a new cdi will take care of that. I don't have a tach, but it feels like is cutting out way before it should. Using app on phone it's roughly around 45mph on flat road. There's plenty more rpm left
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Post by km4nxa on Oct 25, 2017 14:16:55 GMT -5
2014 Taotao 49cc I just replaced the stock clutch spring only to a 1,500. Before, the belt went one easily. Mainly because I could squeeze the clutch assembly and have all the slack in the world. I'm sure it's gotten weaker with time to allow me to do so. With new spring, can't hardly budge it. Before I start using screwdrivers and what not to pry on belt and just man handle it, is the a tool or a better way to go about getting the belt on?
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